I have a Galloping Goose Soundtrax sound decoder I want to install into my Doodlebug but there is hardly any space to install a speaker w/enclosure.  Has anyone done this and if so what speaker and enclosure did you use and where/how did you install it?

There's plenty of room for the decoder (where the OEM decoder was located on top of the OEM circuit board) but not a speaker, there is hardly any space above the OEM circuit board that has the passenger area LED's for a speaker, it has to be very thin along with its enclosure to fit.  The curcuit board is just above the top of the windows.

Frank

I took off the shell of my new Spectrum Doodlebug to add figures (coach, too) and replace the OEM decoder with a Tsunami 1000 for the Galloping Goose (I'm not sure what speaker to use yet) when I noticed that the passenger LED's didn't light but the headlight did.  After checking the OEM decoder plug I noticed 2 objects on the plug board that I was not able to determine what they were.  Anybody know what they are?  I'm sure they have something to do with the passenger area LED's lighting up as I can tell the normally unused plug pin #3 is connected to the unknown objects via circuit board trace and through-holes.

I find it strange that they dim when the headlight does but don't go out when in reverse.  Is there a wiring schematic somewhere I can see what they are doing before I continue?  This is no problem, I can work around it.  Just courious.

Frank

I just received at Spectrum Item #81423 "EMC" Gas Electric Doodlebug w/trailer coach (DCC) Boston & Maine (maroon) and found that the parts sheet has the exploded view of the insides but doesn't say how to remove the shells of either.  I need to know how to remove the shells without damage to both as I want to change the docoder for a better one that will give better lighting effects and for the trailer coach I want to add a capacitor to eliminate the flickering.  For both I want to add people sitting and an engineer in the forward control cab.

If anyone knows of a decoder w/sound that sounds like a Doodlebug's gasoline engine please let me know.  

Does anyone know if Bachmann makes a powered truck?  I couldn't find any by searching their product database.  I'm rebuilding a homemade wooden 60's era Doodlebug and the powered truck assembly is totaly wore out (all screw holes are stripped out, homemade shims, etc.  It's toast!)  I picked up this little gem at a train show for $5 and would like to get it going again as it is in otherwise good condition; fully lighted, seated painted figures and interior, etc.  A lot of work was put into this unit when it was hand-built way-back-when.  When I can get it running again I plan on adding DCC to it and change all the light bulbs to LED's.

Thanks,

Frank

Does anyone know what Diaphragm kits to use with the following:

Bachmann FT A-B-B-A consist
Atheran D&RGW HW (3 axle trucks) passenger Ski Train cars

I've been looking at all the kits available on the net and can't come to the conclusion as to what kit will work the best as there are so many makes and types.

Has anyone had some experience with these?

Thanks

Frank

I just purchased a new EMD GP-40 (DC only) that was removed from a McKinley Explorer set (all the paper work came with it) and discovered that the Alaska road name is missing on one side!  Is this normal or did Bachmann make a mistake?  The loco runs nicely but the lighting sucks big-time.  I plan on adding a Bachmann decoder board once I get the missing road name solved.  It's a nice looking loco in the ARR paint schme.

Frank

I bought for practialy nothing a Mantua 0-6-0 diecast loco off E-bay for parts and after inspection was able to get it running again.  After repaining the broken brush holder with Locktite's Sumo glue then cleaning and lubeing the little loco runs pretty darn good.  It has lots of weight for its size and pulls over 20+ cars without spinning its wheels.  It's a pretty nice looking little loco and was taken care of.  The person I bought it from said his late father was an avid model railroader and had an extensive collection and layout.

After I found a site that lists all of Mantua's catalogs from 1978 - 2001 I did learn it was called a Bix Six and the photos show the model I have but every catalog lists it as having lights both front and back.  Mine never had any, just pockets for jewels.
Anyone have any info as to what I have?

I just received from a family member whose father passed away receintly a Bachmann EMD GP40 Conrail #3091 that has written on the label end of the box "July 1984".  This loco has only pickups on the rear truck wheels (2 axle) and has the motor mounted on TOP of the front truck assembly!  Believe it or not it actually runs, but it's noisy as heck!!!  I cleaned and lubed everything and it runs better now.  But the one thing that is puzzling is that the motor slowly speeds up as it goes along to the point that it seems it is going to jump off the tracks even with the power pack turned down to its lowest setting without shutting off the power to the tracks.

Now here's the interesting part: I installed a spare Bachmann decoder board (small enough for even N scale) and it worked, but still does the same thing it was doing on DC, slowly speeding up on its own but not as bad as when it was on straight DC.  Its low speed characteristics are lousy!  And it has a bad habit of sometimes stopping dead in its tracks (no pun intended) when it passes over any turnout, then continuing on, slowly picking up speed again.  I tried spreading the wheel contacts to make sure they were pressing tightly against the back of the pickup wheels and this seems to have helped, somewhat, but it still stops on its own from time to time when passing over any turnout.  Wierd, to say the least.  I whish there was a way to add pickup wipers to the front truck but I don't think it can be done after inspection.

Anyone have any experience with this type of loco?  It's all plastic with a lot of metal weights added, but it's still too light to pull anyhing worthwhile without spining its 4 wheels.  I don't plan on using this engine, it was just a project to see if I could get it going again, sort of a "man" thing I guess.  Oh, all the light bulbs were burned out, too, so it's unlighted for now.

Frank

Is item #63506 (Conrail GP-40 road #3088) a previous release of this loco?  In my 2011 Catalog I can only find #63505 (page 53, Conrail GP-40 road #3072.)  I believe both these locos are only DC versions as far as I can tell.

Frank

Will somebody please explain what the difference is between all the different # turnouts?

Frank

What would be the best way to join 18" & 22" radius E-Z Track ovals?  Switches or crossovers?

Frank

Anyone know of a good place to get Ditch Lights in some sort of kit form?

Frank

I'm going to rip up all the brass track on a 4x8 layout table that was given to me and re-track it with either EZ-Track or Atlas Snap track.

I need an honest opinion on which I should use (I'm leaning towards EZ-Track for now.)

While I'm at it I plan on extending the 8' long side outward about 1 1/2 ft so I can use larger radius curves, 28" and 26" radius.

Frank

I have a new Bachmann #60306 Conrail GP40 that I have broken in with about 3-4 hours of running.  I have noticed that it doesn't run as fast as any of my Bachmann FT-A's or B's or Bachmann DDA40X's.  Is it geared lower than any of my other locos, possibly for pulling power rather than speed?  As of now I can't run it in a consist with any of my locos.  I've tried all the settings of CV's for speed, voltage to no avail.  Anyone have any ideas?

Frank

I'm looking for a 4-4-2 Atlantic made by anybody for sentimental reasons.  I don't see one in the 2011 Bachmann catalog and don't know if they ever made one.  I don't care if it has DCC or not.

Frank

How do you remove the shell off of a #60306 Conrail GP-40?

Frank

Update:

Thanks ACY, you steered me in the right direction.
The fuel tank cover is just pressed on and all you have to do is pull it straight off (I used just my fingers, no tools needed)  then you can gain access to the 2 screws that hold on the shell.  You don't have to remove the couplers, just lift the shell straight up and off it comes.

Frank

My brand new (just arrived today) #60306 Conrail GP-40 makes a loud rattling noise going forward only.  In reverse it sounds normal.  In both directions at very low speeds it is jerky.  I've reset to decoder by setting CV8 to 8 and then resetting the long address and it's still jerky and makes the loud rattle/vibration noise in the forward direction only.  I'm not sure how to remove the shell as the exploded view doesn't say or show.  I see no mounting screws.  Can anyone shed some light on these?

Update:
I found out from ACY that to remove the shell you start by removing the fuel tank cover.  It has no screws, it's just pressed on so just pull it straight off then you gain access to the screws holding on the shell.  After removing the 2 screws just lift the shell up and off.  The couplers don't have to be removed.  With the shell off there is no more rattleing noise so it's the shell causing the noise.  I'll try to fix with tape.

Is this a good engine?  What is the minimum radius curve it will negociate?
#83311 HO SCALE STEAM ENGINE SEABOARD 2-10-2 DCC EQUIPD

Is item #63505 DCC ready?  The discription doesn't say, just that it is 8 wheel drive.
BACHMANN HO GP40 CONRAIL #3072 TRAIN 63505

Item #13035 here in the Bachmann catalog is listed as a Royal Gorge Full Dome lighted passenger car.  I have also seen it listed as a D&RGW on some sites.  Which is correct?  I have a full 7 car consist of D&RGW passenger cars (HW 6 wheel trucks "Ski Train" by Athearn) but have no "Dome" car.  I'm using Bachmann's FT A-B-B-A D&RGW (all powered) to head the train.  I would love to have a Dome car or 2 if any are made (I'm not sure if the real train had any).  Does anyone know?