I'm Back!!!! Still having problems getting the results I want but as someone commented, walking away when frustrated is the way. I do have a few hobby/model railroading shops in town however they charge quite a bit for their stuff so I went online. The rail joiners including shipping was under $4.00 it didn't seem like an expensive item. Just annoyed me I needed them and only after I put in a formal complaint (6 days AFTER purchased)did the person ship them. So I am at a stand still until I get them. I think my frustration today is the joints aren't tight due to old bent joiners I am trying to use. The flex trac, well lets just say its piled up in the middle of the platform with all the other stuff I am not using. I went back to the old track, gave up on the R X R crossing piece and the trestle piece I purposely bought to add to the layout this year. Couldn't get the track and them to work out so they are in the middle of the platform too. The positive part of this is the lay out is done. The train should work once the new rail joiners are in place and its' glued, pinned down in place, but I do have a question I just remembered. There are part of the track the train just stops on,  if I nudge it along it will take off again. Now it doesn't happen all the time and I sit there scratching my head in wonder, why did it stop this time? I have read and seen video talking about adding direct power to those tracks? How would one do that? or is that just for advanced lay outs? I have cleaned the tracks numerous times, actually after every adjustment I am touching the tracks. Another thing I notice is locomotive will go along at a good speed and then slow up or go faster on some of the track. Is that a clue there is power issues? the track is flat no hills to climb. It just doesn't move at the same speed around the track continuously. As to gluing it down, I did do that last night using silicone, worked good but had to pull it all up for the replacement tracks and other issues, at least I know that will work and how easy it was to do once it was outlined, pinned and left alone to dry.
Now that the layout is done I can move on to adding more of the village aspects of the project. I think another mountain or level up for more houses is the next step. Had to wait to see where the tracks laid in proportion to what I can add, like a mountain, etc.  That foam and plaster cloth is the cats meow! I have been practicing soldering on the electrical connections I am putting in to this project. THANKS for the great advice on doing that.
Another question..... I will end up with cars extra cars, trestles, track, etc etc is there a site anyone recommends to put them up for sale, or just do it locally like Craigslist or do it on Ebay? I know I won't expand this, have no place to expand it unless I move into someplace bigger and well if that happens then I can go look for stuff then. I just lost my part time job so glad I have all the stuff I need to complete this years project. I am off, to plan the addition to the platform, hmm what will it be  

Watched a very good step by step video of a novice model railroader and he explained how to tell the rail that should go inside. Also discussed joining them and laying them out. Unfortunately for me I have no one to help me hold the tracks while I try to lay it out. I've tried pretty much everything and it is still laying on the platform incomplete. Now I think I have bitten off more than I can chew and will probably just give up and put it all for sale on craigs list. I am also disgusted with some yea who on ebay who i purchased rail joiners from . cheap price, brand new in the package and cheap shipping only problem is they never bothered to ship them until I put in a formal complaint today (six days after purchase) with ebay and wow just like that they are supposed to be on their way. What really ******* me off is the comment from the seller saying they are coming from Michigan to Nevada 2000 miles apart and will take some time getting here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What??? they are being sent first class mail not on a Conestoga Covered Wagon. So I am down in the dumps and probably shouldn't take it out on this forum. I just wanted to thank everyone who has responded to my questions.

Well I got the flex track and thought it would be easy to install but I am having some problems and any and all advice is welcomed. going to ask questions.
1. how do I get the track to stay in place for me to mark it and see if it will work properly? I have been trying to use long headed straight pins but the locomotive won't go over them obviously. Do I just trust in faith I will get the track laid down right the first time and the the locomotive and cars will go around like I want?

2. once I get it in place and trace out its layout, how do I attach the track to the foam board? (I am not using track bed, I think that is what it's called, just laying it directly on the foam board). I don't plan on removing it from this foam board.  Nail it or glue it?

3. How to I get each rail to move? I know the outside rail will curve more than the inside rail, is there a tool to use? I can't seem to get the rail, rail joiners and the other rail to line up. is there a trick?

4. Solder the rails together or not? Solder some of them and leave others unsolder in case I need to adjust or move them?

5. Is flux something I have to have to solder? If so do I need it to solder my wiring I am working on? or just use it for the rails (if I decided to solder them in place.).

I was so excited to get the flex track delivered yesterday and then so disappointed I was having such a hard time figuring it out. Gave up on it and went to soldering my light connections, got the 2 pin connectors in, just what I was looking for. I know I am not the first person to realize soldering takes three or more hands, my cat isn't obliging and so now I think I need one of those contraptions that looks like something Dr Loveless in a James West series invented.

I appreciate all the input everyone has given me. I may not comment on it all but I am taking note of all of it. Someone asked why don't I leave it up all year long. Well I live in a one bedroom apartment that is about 600 square feet total. The top of my entertainment center is where I place this. I have a front door to one side and the door leading to the bedroom/bathroom. As it is now when this is in place, one has to turn sideways to get past this monster!Three months of doing this is enough plus I put out a Fall Village and an Easter Village on top the center, neither of them are the size of this. Trust me if I could leave Christmas up all year long without fear of being committed to a hospital, I would!

I experimented using my additional ac/dc train power box to operate the lights, not sure what watt or volt they were but I tried it on these two tiny bulbs inside a train tower, originally they were lighted with a adapter that was plugged into 110 power. I eliminated the adapter and well long story short, the bulbs got real bright, started to smoke and then tiny flames shot out of them before they burned out. So, since I don't know enough about current, voltage, wattage, adapters, transformers and resistors. I will just stick with what I did last year but with the new 2 pin connectors will make it a much nicer wire layout.  Some things I have to admit defeat and that is one of them.

Thanks for any and all advice!

I think I will be in business next week, yippee! flex track, rail joiners and 2 pin male/female connectors should be here Tuesday. All of these are crucial to my Christmas Village layout. I am not going to sleep well until they arrive. I don't sleep well now plotting and planning it all. I actually wake up in the middle of the night wiring something or plastering a stand alone something or other. Last night was adding "waterfalls" and pond "water" to the layout. That Water Effects and Realistic Water is pretty cool. I also added a 'dirt road" winding up the hill that will house a house or two over the train tunnel. I bought a string of LED soft white Christmas lights to use instead of the night light bulbs that go inside those ceramic house to light them up. The houses I have are small 3 to 4 inches long. they don't need much to give them a glow. Now I need to research if I can shorten the string. I pray the flex track will do what I hope it will do. If not you might see me offering some trains, tracks and trestles and X crossings and box cars etc etc really cheap! I am on such a budget to do this project, the last thing I need is stuff that doesn't work for what I want. I am keeping positive the flex track will do the trick. Is it here yet!? Well guess I better go and untangle all those mini lights and hedges and bushes and trees, some how they all became one over the course of them being stored! Going to make a couple of wreaths to hand on the tunnel. Might add a light or two to them. Thanks for the tip about looking how to share photos. After all the hours and hours I put into something that is set up for a few months, I'd like to share it. I think people on this site understand the time, effort, imagination, expense, lack of sleep, detail, detail detail that goes into something like what you all do and what I am doing with a simple Christmas Village.

the resistor makes some what sense as I have a real nice set of LED lights that do have a resistor in the line of lights. I failed to mention I actually have two power switches of the same model, so i could use one for just lights and the other for the train operations. I don't know how to attach a photo, I tried a few times and made sure is was less that 128 kb but still said folder to large blah blah blah. so maybe someone can walk me through it. as they say a picture is worth a thousand words. I am trying to attach it to my replies, isn't that where I want to attach it? not in the photo gallery section of this site.

Now i need to find small connectors, some of the wires is probably 22 guage, real thin wire. I might have to study up on soldering them and using the shrink wrap. any views/opinions on that subject? or just crimping them?

jbbrock27 thanks for the info on the rail joiners, learning they are important things. Do you have a specific vendor you buy from? Thanks for the support.

Doneldon: I tried to attach a photo of this platform but I got some message folder to large, contact administrator so gave up on it. how does one attach photos? in the meantime.............
The platform I am using: 6' long and widest in center is 4' It is an odd shape, due to limitations to where this is placed between 2 door openings.  I am attempting to attach a photo of the old one that I am revamping. the new one is longer and wider. The frame is 1.5 in by 3/4 in wood lengths giving it about a 1 inch void to run wires, allow some air flow between the top (extruded pink foam board) and the back a large sheet of cardboard. Sandwiching them together so I can move and store the platform separate from all the homes, vehicles, accessories, etc that are placed on the platform. The train track will be attached to the platform and stay on it when stored. Due to its size I will wrap it in either visqueen or bubble wrap to protect it.
My lightening will be well lets just say a lot! I have ac/dc lemax miniature strands of lights, hedges with lights, trees with lights, light post, spot lights and very low voltage soft lights. all are powered with ac/dc adapters from lemax. The problem I had last year was trying to figure out how to make them quick disconnect so when I take this apart to store, the lights can be easily disconnected and stored in the bins I have for all the other stuff. I didn't want to have to undo the back of the platform and pull wires or cut wires. Does that make sense? Just have easy connections on top the platform where I can hide them with trees or other things but easy to get to. The other bigger issue is the houses and lighting them. I have about 20 small ceramic house, buildings, store all of which I light up. The houses when purchase do come with a single 110v night light bulb and socket to stick inside of it, well that would be over kill not to mention probably a good weeny roast as my home burns to the ground from all that current and heat. What I used last year was a string of clear Christmas lights. 100 to be exact. I drilled 2 holes for each house and fed them from underneath the platform and set the house over the two mini lights. (see attached photo) It did the job but... a lot of work. Storing it,  many of the lights broke off an so now I am left with a partially working string of lights that I won't be using. Not all the lights were in the houses due to the space between the strand so some just laid inside on the cardboard. I didn't have the lights on for long period of time but it still probably wasn't the safest way to go. Now this year, LEDs are probably the way to go, as you said they don't create the heat, cheap to use and last a long time. I am not sure how this foam and heat from lights will work out. Will it melt the foam? or ignite it? All the houses will have lighting in them one way or another, I am addicted to Christmas lighting, and quite possible you can see my outside decorations from the space station. I noticed on my power box for the train there is a dc side and ac side and you can connect wires to both. is it possible to use it to run my lighting? I just experimented and the ac side did light up one of my lighted hedges. but is that a safe thing to do? am I over powering these low volted lights?

Forming using foam and plaster cloth. Wish I knew your advice on the newspaper part before I made the stuff. I did use newspaper for the forming and didn't know to remove it. Now the back of both the mountain and the tunnel are open and air can get to the newspaper all the time, think that will help eliminate the mildew smell? Heck if not, I had so much fun making these wouldn't hurt my feelings to redo them again next year. Terrific suggestion on the black inside of tunnel, I did bring the plaster cloth inside, painted stacked rock on the front sides of the tunnel and there will be houses, lights, trees etc on top the tunnel. Actually molded a switch back road up to the top of the tunnel to get to the homes. I am going to build another mountain or some thing on the far end of the platform, removable like the others but need to get that flex track and all the track installed so I know where this will go. Might of found a place locally for the track, sure hope so, its holding everything up right now.

Oh note: I paint the entire platform with popcorn ceiling texture dry mix with water to give it the snow effect. really does a good job, I can build it up for snow drifts. it is easy enough to scrape away to lay the track. I know dust is a bugger, doesn't go well with trains and tracks.

Track and lighting are my two focal points right now, need to have both on hand and devise a plan for both. Radio Shack is three blocks away! So I may be making a few trips back and forth if need be. do you have a specific vendor you buy from? not sure where to get the rail joiners? Your last post confirmed they are an important factor to all of this track laying. Thanks!

Yes I did describe the tracks incorrectly, I meant to say ties not rails. I was hoping to buy the flex track online as I doubt anyone in a 50 mile radius has flex track or I could afford it if they had it. Seems model railroading is expensive. You did answer a question I forgot to ask, rail joiners, they are important right? I have used small Philip head screws in the past but didn't think that was the best idea. I am revamping my old platform from plywood to the extruded foam (pink) and already happy with the results. I am also creating tunnels and mountains using plaster cloth instead of plywood as I had last year. The weight difference was the reasoning for the revamping. I have done some of my homework by searching out model railroading and the tips and hints available. As a novice the info I receive from people like you is invaluable. Your response on the conductivity of the brass vs steel alloy vs nickel silver got me to wondering if.... would it hurt if I was to duck tape all the rails when I am going to store this platform? Would that help reduce any rusting or oxidation? or would it be a waste of time? I generally store this uncovered in a dry location. I checked the steel track with a magnet, magnet doesn't stick. the track is not on a road bed, and not sure if I will put it on a road bed. I will get matching flex track (meaning no road bed attached to it) so I can either add road bed later or not. Its good to know I can cut the flex track if needed and have the appropriate tools to do that. I have to laugh a bit as these projects do tend to leave some bleeding, burns and slivers all three of which I experienced last week while working on the platform. A saw blade hopping off the wood ouch, hot glue holy crap and where there is wood there are splinters just waiting to slip under that fingernail! But heck it's all worth it. My Christmas village started out on my coffee table with a few ceramic houses, a couple of people and a few trees. It is now being revamped and increased to 4' x 6'. At the rate I am going this "village" will be a large metropolis and who knows modern ddc trains or whatever the new things are called running around my entire home! Oh one more question, I have lights, lots of lights once this is all set up. I have adapters spliced together and splices here and there and one thing I hate is visible wires and second crappy connections. All of these lights are mini with very small strand wire, I am going to say around 20 gauge. do you know of a supplier that sells quick disconnect or small splicers?  I want to be able to easily disconnect the lighting for storage purposes. I've tried to find suppliers on line without much luck. Once again thank you for your help!

thanks, that helps alot.

I have the older Bachmann ho scale track and train set and don't know if it is code 100 or 83. I don't have a micrometer to measure the height of the track (I read some place that is how you tell the code).  The curved tracks are gold with black rails, the straight are silver with black rails. I am a novice and ONLY setting this up for my Christmas village that I put out for a few months of the year. I can't afford to upgrade all the tracks or equipment. I do hope to find a few sections of flexible track to use with what I have. I am needing to make a few curves that I think the flex track should do. space is limited to what I am doing and from tutorials seems flex track may be what I need. does anyone have any suggestions and what track is the best for the price? I read Atlas is good but I would think I should stick to Bachmann since everything I have is Bachmann? Thanks for any suggestions or help.

Thanks for all the advice. I will take it all into consideration. Can't wait til next weekend so I can get started on the re-transformation of my Christmas village layout/platform. I have 20 mini homes, shops, etc, a ice skating rink, school area, hundreds of lights, road ways, trees, deer train station, people, vehicles, a tunnel, now I will add add housing using the left over extruded foam board, I seen video on plaster cloth and may make some removable hill sides or other things (for storage purposes. All I need it that darn train to finish it off (for storage reasons). Thanks once again.

After several tries of turning the front wheels around, the locomotive now works. THANK YOU !!!!! Now moving on to tracks. As I ONLY use this for my Christmas village main attraction, for only 3 months or so and only a handful of people see it, I won't be spending any more money on another locomotive or  updating track. I just can't afford it and not practical for the limited time I actually use the train.  If it goes around while people are here I will be happy. The village is more for my pleasure, it is not to any scale and is not designed for what I'd consider model railroading. Its just an oval shape, no room for turn outs. I will be "trying" to add the Bachmann Bridge N Trestle set and the Dual Crossing Gates. Should I use foam or cork track layout or nothing? I don't care about the noise, I've read that is one reason people use it.  I have seen how to videos on setting up the platform and the man used extruded foam board. Is that a good idea? I have it right now on ply wood and there are joints to the ply wood and I think that is where I had some problems last year, any little bump or lump or the track not laying flat seemed to thwart all efforts for it to go around the track. I don't have a problem with redoing the platform to foam, in fact it might be lighter for me to move around.  BTW I have limited space to set this up and so it will be approximately 40 inches by 60 inches (I can go longer by not wider). I am sure flex track would be great but as I said, can't afford to spend anymore on this so have to use what I have. Maybe I am being unrealistic in what I hope to achieve but I think I can do it.

To the dual crossing gates, at the present time I have this set up on my dining room table, the crossing is raised slightly and when the locomotive goes over it, it stops on it and I have to either raise the speed or give it a gentle push to get it to go again. Is the crossing designed to lay level with the track? Do I need to build up the tracks on either side of it so it will smoothly cross the crossing or if I use the extruded foam board should I cut out that section to lower the crossing? leaving it level with the tracks? Gosh I hope I am making sense on what I am asking or trying to describe about the crossing. Last question and I am will go research on line, heaven knows there are so much info on model railroading on the internet however I want to ask here to get your opinions. What is ballast? Is it important? Do I have to do this on the small layout I am using?  Any suggestions if I do need to do this how to go about it?

I could see how a person could get REALLY involved in model railroading, this video http://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/exhibit/video/4-minutes-wunderland/ is just awesome. But all I want is a simple oval with a locomotive a car or two and the caboose chugging around my Village, oh don't forget the trestle and the RR crossing and it has a Tunnel already, going to expand it up with layers for new homes. Gee I just can't stop improving it! Thank you all for your help in this matter, I will probably be back asking for more help.

I have Sante Fe 307 HO. The 307 derailed and fell off the table. The front wheels came off and a black wire that connects to the motor broke off. I soldered the black wire back and put the front wheels back on. Now when I put the front wheels on the track the rear wheels spin like 60 but as soon as the rear wheels touch the track, they stop moving and nothing happens. If I continue to try to get all wheels on the track with the power on it will set the circuit breaker off on the power box. Then I have to unplug it and wait to work again. Why is the happening? How do I fix the problem?

My other question is should I be placing the tracks on those strips they show on the internet for model railroading? Not sure what they are called. Appear to be like foam rubber? they also talk about cork ones? Any suggestions on either of them? I am not using the trains as model railroading, I am using them for the center attraction of my large Christmas village I set up each year. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

I just acquired the HO Bachmann Power House train set. Once assembled it measures about 42 inches wide. Is there a way to decrease that size? I would like it to measure about 24 inches. I don't need all the extras this set came with. The width is the issue.