Slightly off-topic, and definitely off-scale, but my On30 2-6-6-2 shoves 6 unloaded skeleton log bunks up an 8% grade on my Lumber Mountain RR. Admittedly, with the aid of a helping of Bullfrog Snot on one set of drivers on the rear engine. :-)

Pic of it in operation can be found on the photos page of the local regions NMRA layout tour pages. Only with 3 cars in these pics, but I have since expanded to 5:

http://www.nmra.org.au/Layout_Tours/Magee/index.html

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

The easiest way to add a back-up light to the tender you propose to build for the Porter would be to ignore the loco altogether and install a lighting/function decoder in the tender (assuming of course you added pick up to the tender), then running the two together off either the same address or as a consist. The NCE FL2 is such a decoder.

Or if you want to be really tricky, put a Bachmann motor decoder in the tender, wire a bulb as the back-up light, then connect the orange/grey wires to the bulb. These can then be used to alter the brightness of the light by using the throttle as a volume control - but make sure you have a different number for the tender, not the loco number, for this set-up.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

No "best". It's what suits you. Basic - easiest - is a Tsunami and speaker to fit the existing speaker enclosure in the tender. My preference would be a TCS WOW steam V3 with a Jaycar AS-3030 speaker. More work but if you can do it, go for it.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

My description was brief, but in full: cut the hole in the coal load. Cut a piece of stocking to overlap the whole. Using ACC, glue ONE side of the stocking down. Let dry. Then stretch the stocking over to the other side, and keeping tension on it, glue the other side down (ACC again) then hold it under tension until the glue dries. Same with both ends of the stocking piece. Sprinkle on the coal. leaving lots of air gaps for the sound. Secure in space with diluted white glue. I haven't noticed any deterioration of the sound.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

Thanks Hunt. Good link. I completely forgot about on line install guides. My only quibble would be the restrictive holes drilled in the coal load to "let the sound out", as most of the load above the speaker is still plastic which reflects the pressure waves, and hence the sound back onto the speaker. I would probably cut the whole area out, use black stocking material to cover the hole then sprinkle some Woodlands Scenic coal over it (and the rest of the coal load - help stamp out plastic coal :-) ) and glue the coal in place before adding the speaker. But, only the user can justify its worth.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

Yes the Tsunami would work but the Tsu is 10 years old now and is outdated (compared with a WOW V3 from TSC for example). A new version is promised (Twonami?) but no sign of it on the horizon as yet. I haven't seen the 4-4-0 dismantled, so to speak, so I don't know how much space is available in the tender for the speaker and decoder (and wires!).

If there is sufficient room for a full size decoder - and I had to put a mini-Tsu in an On30 outisde frame 4-4-0 due to space - I would probably prefer the WOW. But don't forget others, such as the ESU Loksound for superior motor control or if you really want to go exotic, the Zimo MX648 with matching "sugar cube" Zimo speaker.

As they say in motor sport, performance costs money. How good do you want the performance?

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

Hi Doc

Fairly easy, I have installed a few myself. Look at:

http://www.soundtraxx.com/choose/step3.php?t=o&s=Bachmann

and you will see what is required by way of speaker/baffle/decoder for the T-boiler Shay. There are other decoders that can do the same job, from Loksound and Zimo, but at least the Soundtraxx one is the easiest package.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

Hello there

If you mean open the tender, plug something in and away you go, not quite. But it is an easy installation. Any sound decoder with an 8-pin plug will slip right in, but you will have to add a speaker of your choice and solder the two speaker wires from your decoder to the speaker terminals - does not matter which way they are soldered, there are no polarity issues. Then mount the speaker in the hole provided by bachmann in the tender. I forget the size of the speaker that fits the mounting, probably about 28 mm but a quick check with a ruler will give you that information.

That will get you started with a good basic installation. Tweak after if you like - seal tender with what we call BluTac here (stuff a bit in any holes you can see on the tender apart from the ones under the speaker) is a good start but not absolutely essential. It does provide more volume and a deeper sound.

I have used sound decoders from Soundtraxx, QSI, ESU Loksound, TCS WOW and Zimo in this installation. If you are new(ish) to installing sound, Soundtraxx Tsunami is a good all round bet for a simple installation and tune. My own one has a QSI Revolution U Version 7 installed, but is going to be upgraded to a TCS WOW 101 Vers 3.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

Gary

Sorry about the delay in replying, just noted the post. If you can force program (in other words, don't listen to it when it says loco not found) then try changing CV19 to zero. What you describe has the same symptoms as a loco in consist.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

Irbricksceo

Having been in DCC since I bought my first DCC system (Lenz) in 1994 I will share a secret with you.

What the manufacturer SAYS is in the CVs isn't what is actually IN the CVs. It has happened often enough that before programming a new decoder I do a full factory reset, to give me a known baseline. Off hand, I don't remember the correct CV/value to reset a Tsunami/OEMTsunami/BachmannTsunani, but it is easy to look up (I know, I'm lazy just now*).

So, before doing anything else, please try a reset to factory defaults. Let us know what happened then.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

*Oh alright, its entering 8 into CV8 - I'm really not that lazy - then rock the loco off the track for 15 secs or shut down power another way, again for minimum 15 seconds.

Not even that. Some new tank cars is all.

And I am just outside the National Train Show doors now waiting for them to open :-)

I will be attending the Convention. Can you send me a message letting me know the address and times your club is open?

Thanks

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Australia

Hey CanPac

The Heisler's trucks snap on and off. Centre the questionable truck evenly over the loco (you are holding it upside down, now, aren't you :-) ) and apply even pressure downward to ensure it is snapped into position.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

Hey CanPac

Can you check that the o/f 4-4-0 already has a speaker in it? I received a nice surprise when I opened up the tender on mine, and lo and behold ...

Also the i/f 4-4-0 can fit a 1.22" HiBass is you want to use the TSU750 - it is a tight fit, but does go in there. I know the stories about heat failure on the 750s, but mine hasn't missed a beat in the 2 or 3 years it has been installed.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Australia