Bris Biker,

Thanks for reporting back on your results in getting the Shay to run

Feedback on these type questions is appreciated.

By chance, was it the two wires discussed in my reply?

Have fun with the 3-truck.  You'll find it's a very good running locomotive.

JD

Bris Biker

First, refer to the supplied documentation that came with the locomotive.  Look at page G824X-IS008 titled "DCC Wiring Connections."

Second, let me say I do not have the factory DCC sound equipped Shay.

I could find only two grey and orange wires mounted side by side.  On the left rear corner of the main PCB are solder points numbered 1,2,3,4.  The orange wire is soldered at position 4.  The Grey wire is soldered at position position 3.

On the wiring diagram it appears these wires go to the DCC board along with black wire, position 2 on PCB.  The red wire from position one on the PCB.  From the diagram it appears the wires are attached to the DCC board by a 4 position screw terminal.

From the diagram the wires connecting to the DCC, starting at the left, are red, orange, grey, black.



Pictured is the wiring as it is connected to a non DCC sound equipped 3 truck Shay.  You'll see that the grey and orange wires are connected to a screw terminal on the main circuit board right next to where the wires are soldered to positions 3 and 4.

Possibly if you connect the grey and orange wires as depicted on the DCC Wiring Connection diagram your locomotive will run.

I hope this helps you to get the locomotive to run.  If not that's all the information that I have.

Just one caveat.  If you try this "fix" and it lets all the smoke out I assume no responsibility!

JD

Here's a not to good video of the new Version 6.  I made this video during the first week or so of January.

It was just pulling an extended J&S coach and two track cleaning cars.

The new pony truck makes all the difference in the world when it comes to tracking.  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0ijwCRuuvE&feature=relmfu

Here is a short article from my GRBLOG that contains some detail about the locomotive.

http://www.grblogs.com/index.php/2012/02/04/bachmann-4-6-0-anniversary-version-6?blog=4

The metal gear train makes no noise.  This new locomotive should be a winner for Bachmann.

JD

The Bachmann 1:20.3 Spectrum Forney has the Plug & Play socket.



This is a picture of the Bachmann socket mounted in the tender of the Forney.  I've installed a RCS plug & play.  Works great.

Easy to install a Phoenix sound system.  It will be a little tight in the tender but it could be done.

JD

Here you go.

There are two screws that attach the motor block to the saddle.  Remove these two screws and the motor block will lift right out of the saddle.



Note in the picture at the mid point along the side frame is an opening next to the motor block.  In the picture, on the right hand side you can see the Phillips head screw.  There's one on the other side also.

Should mention there is no need to remove the bottom motor block cover to remove the motor block.  In fact it would probably be better if the bottom cover was left in place.  Just happened that the picture I had has the bottom cover remove.

Remove these two Phillips head screws and lift the motor block out of the saddle.  Pay attention to the orientation of the motor block in the saddle. Don't reverse the motor block when putting it back in place.

JD

I agree with Tony and Bill.

When I first received the three truck Shay silicone adhesive was placed around the plug wires where they exit the plug.  I've never had a problem with broken wires.

I should also mention that I use engine carriers for all engines that have tenders where wires go from the tender to the locomotive.  This eliminates the need to constantly plug and unplug the wires.  It seems most wires are broken by this constant pluging and unpluggine.

Once you repair the wires going to the pins then add the silicone as suggested and you should have no more problems with broken wires.

JD

Bob,
I don't have any amp draw figures for the Forney pulling 5 Bachmann cars.

Don't know if these figures will be of any help.  Full slip is 1 amp at 6.70 volts.  Stall is 2 amps at 8.05 volts.  These figures were taken when the Forney was new before converting it to RCS plug & play.

With the RCS system/battery power the Forney handles 5 Bachmann 1:20.3 freight cars on level track with no problem.

When Tony comes on this site he can no doubt give you some better figures since he's worked with these locomotives.

JD

Bob,
If you have the earlier version of the Climax here's the answer.

At the front of the bunker, on top, there are two water leg valves.  They are just pushed in to the bunker top.  Carefully pry the water leg valves from the top of the bunker.  Down in the hole they cover are Phillips head screws.  Remove the screws.  Raise the front of the bunker and tip it to the rear.  On the back edge of the bunker are two lugs that fit down into slots. With the bunker tipped back carefully wiggle the bunker while pulling up. This will free the lugs from the slots in the chassis.

If you have the latest production Climax then look at Tony's posting on his RCS and Phoenix installation.  He mentions there are four screw that hold the bunker in place.

Either version you will find the bunker is easy to remove.


JD

You have done a first rate job on that locomotive.  It sure looks great and no doubt will be a show case addition to your fleet.

JD

Peter,
Use your imagination to add weight.  Segmented tire weights that stick on can be used.  Also, the steam and sand domes could be filled with lead shot.  Just make sure the lead shot is held in place so none of it drops out into the locomotive.  Five minute eposy could be used to secure the lead shot.

There should be some room inside the boiler for small pieces of the tire weights.  Also weight could be added along the sides of the cab walls.  Once these have been installed they can be painted to blend in.

With a little work you might be able to add about a pound of weight.  On the original Lynn I was able to gain about a pound of weight.  Never had a gear problem with that added weight.

The new all metal gear train should be able to handle extra weight without any damage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_c8nmBEsqM&list=UUuE5ry07wREY2joWnKiOtRw&index=4&feature=plcp

This is a short video of the new 2-4-2T with three modified J&S coaches in tow.

Just remember the little 2-4-2T will never be a stump puller.

JD

Bill B.
OK, now I understand. You are making reference to the locomotive's foot boards.  That bumper thing had me wondering.

The coupler does set close to the foot board.  I've never had a problem with any of the Shays hitting the foot boards.  Are you sure the coupler shank mounting screw, where it attaches to the motor block, is tight?

JD

Bill,
As you know, I have Spectrum 4-4-0, 4-6-0, and Connie.  In fact several of the 4-4-0 and 4-6-0 models.  All of the locomotives were purchased within a few weeks of their introductions.

To date I've had no problems with any of them with split gears.  All the locomotives have high hour run times.  I don't hesitate to pull up to the max load they will handle without wheel slip.

Guess I'm just lucky. I do have a NWSL replacement for the Connie as it's probably just a matter of time till the gear splits.

JD

I have three Shay locomotives.  None have a bumper on the front or the rear.



Pictured is the three truck version. It has no bumpers.  The motor blocks on all the Shay locomotives are the same.  The exception would be that the early versions have plastic motor blocks.  Later versions have metal motor blocks.  However, coupler mounting is the same on all versions.

JD

As Bill mentions the best way to identify the newest version is by its product number.

There is one visual cue that the Anniversary 4-6-0 is the latest model.  Look at the pony truck.  The new pony truck is metal.  It is attached/pivots at the motor cover and also pivots at the center of the pony truck.




Note the two pivot points on this new pony truck.

JD

Tom.
Enjoyed the Davenport cab ride.  Must have been a little cramped for the engineer with that camera on board.

Thanks for posting the video

JD