I have only done this once and I am scared that it will somehow break the engines if I do it again, since they are not running the same speed, or does putting them in consist mode change them to run at the same speed roughly?

Thanks!

Here are the instructions for the Bachmann Reverse Loop Module:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/E-ZCommandReverseLoopModuleInstr.pdf

After all that time a great member, Mike C., of this board and others, allowed me to ship it to him, and test it out. After all that, it wasn't even the decoder, (thank goodness it wasn't blown), but the motor. And he replaced it for me and sent it back to me.

Thanks Mike C., I really appreciate it.

Now in that order of parts, along with the motor, were 2 brand new shell's for the F7-A Unit's. A Norfolk Southern and a Southern Pacific, (really wanted 2 NS's but you can only order 1 of each shell from Bachmann parts. Seem's strange I don't know why). Now the ladders (I am almost sure) are not letting the trucks turn enough to make it around my 11" radius curve and switches. I don't have room for more radius and actually will be adding an inner loop of 9 3/4" to my tiny 2'x4' layout.

Any ideas on the making the shell's work? They look exactly like the ones that come on a new f7-A locomotive. BTW, they work perfect on the layout without the new shell's on.

Have to say though, even with all the trouble I have had, running 2 locomotives on the same layout without blocks and stuff, is amazing. being able to control the speed's and direction of each independently is awesome. Some near crashes too

Thanks again Mike C.!

Quote from: spookshow on March 25, 2016, 08:36:18 AM
Seems like the safest thing to try would be to disconnect the motor wires from the decoder board and then apply DC current to them directly. If the motor works, then it could be a fried decoder (although I'd still recommend doing a decoder reset to see if that doesn't fix things).

Cheers,
-Mark

Thanks spookshow for your site I lookedat while taking it apart, and your help. Going to the local model railroad club tomorrow and hoping they can reset the CV8...and if so hopefully that will fix it. And maybe just maybe they have a solder gun to remove the wires and test the motor...hopefully. If it is the decoder board I'll just buy a new one and use this one for parts I'll post after I go there and keep everyone up to date.

If anyone is interested here is a Bachmann F7-A Unit taken apart. Can I check the motor some how? I looked very closely and don't see and burn mark's or any wires loose. Wire's are connected to the motor from the decoder board, and the decoder has no visible burn area's and look fine. Not saying it is, it just look's fine.

http://screencast.com/t/04H1CKRDQLP5

After I find out how to check the motor without damaging the decoder, I'll put it back together and pray.

Thinking about ordering 2 more brand new Bachmann F7- A Unit's as than I would have all the same locomotives to start out with, and since I already know how to take this one apart now, and they would all take the exact same part's.

Originally was going to get a F7-A Unit, or 2 GE 44 Ton diesel's or a Diesel GE 70 Ton DCC Equipped Bethlehem Steel, and a Bachmann S4 Switcher ATSF Zebra Strip's, love the Zebra strip's on the S4.

But I figure since I am new to DCC and Bachmann that maybe I should get the same locomotive's to learn on, and would be able to switch parts down the road.

Not sure yet, but I am getting something new for sure...I think

BTW, what should I check with the ohm meter?

Yes I have access to a multimeter. Since I got such a good deal I am going to open it up myself and take a look at least.

I tried one time to remove the decoder board (well at least detach it cause it hard wired right), and I was scared to pull on this tabs that keep it in place I can just remove the screws right and pull the halves apart and looking at Spooks website it appears that what was done in the photo of this model. Main thing is I DO NOT want to screw up the decoder board.

Thanks....wish me luck. Good thing I got a really great deal on this locomotive, but I still wish it just worked. Like you said I have to learn, and I would rather learn on a great price locomotive.

Thanks everyone. Hope I am happy next time I post...do not screw this up...do not screw this up...talking to self!

Alright, have some more info. I can change the locomotive position number on the E Z DCC Command System. I changed it from 4 to 5. How do I know this works? Because only the lights work, when I changed from 4 to 5, I could only turn the lights on with F10, and dim with F1, only on position 5 when I changed it. Before I could only control the lights on position 4.

Also, some bad photo's of the light added on the shell. It didn't work when I first got the loco, so it might be a dummy light. Not sure. Inside of shell picture is horrible, so not posting it.

So this tells me at least the decoder board is not fried right? Because I can change the position number for the loco. It DOES NOT do that jerking motion it is suppose to do when you change the position number. Loose wire, bad motor, I dunno. I do know I am really close to completely disassembling this thing though, and taking a look.

http://screencast.com/t/ylWVV1dbgeB5
http://screencast.com/t/2GH5IBixU

Still sound like a CV8 reset to everyone?

Tried it on the DC layout as it is both DCC/DC locomotive and still does not work. Is it fried or still maybe the decoder CV8 needs to be reset?

No not anyone at the club yet. No sure that is going to work out either. The last few times I was able to change the decoder number, say from 2 to 4, with the E-Z Command System. Is that the same as a decoder reset CV8? I am just about over it and thinking about putting it away and going back to DC until further notice. I mean I did get it at a really, really good price, but I am just disappointed that it has not worked since I changed the decoder from default 3 to another number except for light's. This has been a royal pain.

Thanks everyone.

Quote from: spookshow on March 12, 2016, 05:22:31 AM
As long as the contacts on the underside of the PC board are touching the chassis properly, everything should work (lights, motor) regardless of whether or not the shell is on.

Sorry, I'm not following you the re "Burlington Northern" part of your question. In any case, I don't think Bachmann has ever done BN F7's.

Cheers,
-Mark

Yeah I thought that they had not made a Burlington Northern. Meaning some one had a Burlington Northern shell, and stuck it on there. Which normally I don't think would be a problem, but they did some modifications. After looking closer yesterday when I had the shell off, and closer at the unit, it appears that it was originally a Great Northern, and there is also a small round bulb on the top of the shell (not sure what that light is called), and more than that I swear that there is solder or something in the nose of the shell and looks like some gold contact wire. I'll try to take a photo.

But my point being, it appears to have been modified from the original locomotive. And if indeed that is solder for some strange reason, it could be causing or have caused a short or something.

I'll have to try to take some close up photo's later and post here. And than I am thinking about taking it completely apart following your instructions on your site, or follow the pictures

When the shell is off shouldn't the headlight work when I have it on the track, and choose the correct Function button like I do when the shell is on? Also, was there ever a Burlington Northern shell available? The jewel case says "Great Northern" green & orange. The F7 Bachmann parts site does not show a Burlington Northern shell (unless it has been removed). If not I think I am figuring some things out here. Unless there was a B&N, and the shell does have to be on for the headlights to work!

http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bachf7.html

"Current flows from the trucks to the chassis by way of sticky-uppy contacts on the truck wipers. Current flows from the chassis to the decoder by way of flexible contacts on the bottom of the PC board (the PC board is held in place by plastic clips sandwiched between the chassis halves)."

Quote from: gatrhumpy on March 09, 2016, 06:11:37 AM
Didn't you have a problem similar to this on another locomotive?

It may have lost its address. You might have to look at the documentation that came with the engine to see how to reset it using the EZ Command system.

No sir I did not as this is my very first DCC locomotive ever, and it is a Bachmann as well as is the E-Z Command Controller, and I just signed up for the forums, so brand new! If you are on another model railroading forum, than yes, you may have seen this same discussion. Checking here to see if anyone has any other ideas since it is a Bachmann locomotive.

Strange that the locomotive all of a sudden has no power. Can the decoder do this, allow the lights to work but no power? Since I am new to DCC, know nothing about this stuff.

Everything was working fine when I first got it on the default "3" position. Once I tried to change that to another number on the E-Z Command System, it no longer has power just lights.

Purchased these for a great price, received them and running with the Bachmann E-Z Command Control System, everything working fine for the first couple hours, until I try to change the decoder code from default 3 to another number 1. Now only the lights work, button F10 to turn the lights on and F1 for regular or dim the headlight on the locomotive. No power at all, nothing, nada, won't move. Position 1 would turn the light off and on and dim, but no power what so ever. So after reading around here, reset to number 3, and still only the lights work, no power.

On my model railroad forum they say to do a factory reset for a certain CV #8, (new stuff to me), and state that the E-Z DCC Command System, will not let you set to factory default. What could have happened. Can trying to change a decoder number position stop the locomotive from receiving power to it?

Any hep appreciated,