Bc there is not an H.F. close to me, I actually do well by ordering online bc the gas for the trip would actually cost me more.  But your tip is a good one about going into the store instead.
I did not know that tanker's came apart-very interesting....

...sometimes I lose sight that I am on a Bachmann discussion board.

Yes, I realize.  I recently ordered steal stick on 1/4 oz weights to avoid lead all the time.  I make sure to wash my hands really good after playing with the lead.
I had read someone else used 10 pennies glued together with Crazy Glue and they made mention for cost, you could not beat it.  A great idea!

Sweet!

I like the idea of tire wheel weights.  Price?

Last year here, they outlawed the use of lead weights for fishing.  That has resulted in my finding a use for the lead to add weight to freight.  They stay put with the help of a little 2 part epoxy.

That is an excellent suggestion jward.  Safe to say that I am working on that.  I would even use a F7B shell in the flag I am looking for, it would not bother my son or I since the B units of both models look very very similar.
And thank you for pointing that out about the weight.  I only have 4 Bachmanns (2 recent acquisitions) and it just dawned on me that this is the case.  My Bachmann Geep is lighter than one of my Athearn Geeps.

Jerry-what brand locos do you have?

Thank you CNE.  I am still in the dark ages and run DC as opposed to DCC.

Hunt-thank you.  That is around the same weight as my newest, a FTA Bachmann Blue Box model.  It has some troubles taking freight up a grade.  It runs great, it is just what I would call, "light".

Thank you fellas.

Any idea how much these locos weigh?  I have found on my layout, that heavier locos, like the old Athearn Blue Box F7 super gear, that weighs 1 lb, does the best and that lighter locos have trouble.

Any one with experiences with KATOs?

What you do depends on the kind of set up the car has.  Some bolsters have bigger holes than others and different ways the trucks are fit to the cars, which dictates what to do.  Tyco, Bachmann, Life-Like and AHM for example have larger size bolster holes.  Others like Athearn and Gilbert (I am sure I am leaving many out) have a small hole bc a screw is used to secure the truck.
For AHM, I use the "pin" that holds the truck to the car.  I glue just the pin in the bolster, cut off the head of the pin, then sand or file to make the surface smooth with the bolster.  Then just drill a small hole and use a self taping screw to hold the truck.
For the other types of cars I mentioned, I like to use a 2-56 nut and 2-56 machine screw.  I use a 15W soldering pencil to melt the nut into the plastic hole in the bolster (there are a lot of resouces on line that I found were heplful for instruction on this method).  Doing the same of making sure it is level with the bolster.  Then use as long a 2-56 screw as possible (both the nuts and screws can be found at Radio Shack) to secure the truck.  Sometimes however, I have found that even using a longer screw, the screw will work its way loose.  In those cases, I replace the machine screw with the self tapping sheet metal screw and screw right into the nut.  So far that has worked as a solution.

If it is like the new "Blue Box" models, there will be 4 screws around the fuel tank going through the frame that need to come out to release the shell.  If the one you have is like this, the 2 screws you see in the fuel tank, hold the motor cradle to the frame and don't need to come out unless you want to remove the motor too.

I read you loud and clear.  If only space and time weren't factors...

Anyone have recommendations of a quality HO 4 axle diesel? (from hands on experience)
Thanks for sharing.

Wow!  Having that kind of train action close by, must have been great for ideas!

Nice Vid Balrog!

Alot of times, at a lake I go fishing at, trains will run by (CSX) and some of the trains seem to on for ever.  The longer ones pulled by 4 locos.

Agree that bending the couplers will do more harm than good.

I have found that having a Kadee coupler gauge to be tremendously helpful in getting the height of the couplers to be uniform, which is important for good, consistent operation.  There are 2 kinds made by Kadee.  One is metal and the other is plastic.  You put the gauge on the track then roll the car or locomotive to the gauge to check height and coupler hose clearance.  You can then follow Mr Doneldon's advice about making any adjustments needed to get the heights uniform by raising or lowering the couplers or even raising the wheelsets some.  I went with the plastic height gauge, so I did not have to worry about powering down the track first (with the metal gauge the power needs to be off on the tracks or you will create a short).  The part # is 206.  I found it on Amazon for less than I found it for on Ebay.  Next to a track gauge, it has been the best purchase I have made so far.
Good luck!