how do plastic engine look if there spray painted?
I don't know what you a really trying to say. If you want to know if you can paint a plastic model, yes if you used plastic compatible paint. If the model has never been painted, you should wash it real good before you start.
i have two bachmann UP 4-8-4 i want to get painted and renumber to UP 813 and UP 815 but don't want to ruin them so can any do this for me im super bad at painting
UP
It all depends on how well YOU can paint as to whether they will look good.
Jerry
Have you tried just removing the numbers?
Takes a lot of practice if you use spray bombs. I know.
An air brush with an air compressor is the way to go if new to painting.
I just did a Google search for:
model railroad painting spray cans
There is a lot of info out there if you are really serious about doing this Practice on old stuff. First.
Just like learning to solder. Practice. There are no shortcuts.
Rich
how good is model spray paint ?
Quote from: union pacific 844 on January 14, 2013, 10:49:10 PM
how good is model spray paint ?
Obviously, good enough for models. :)
If you know what you are doing of course. If you don't, then it doesn't matter what the paint is.
If all you want to do is change the numbers, take the advice of RAM and just remove the numbers and apply new ones and before you ask how, try Googling "Renumbering trains", you'll get lots of hits. It's a really simple job that even a noob can do, with a little care of course. So have a go.
im just going to do it if i ruin it i will buy a new shell and stop painting stuff
where do i get model spray paint at?
the disadvantage to spray cans is you can't regulate the paint or the pressure. As suggested before airbrush and compressor. Alternative would be aerosol pressure can. it does take practice to become good for most of us. Phil
UP844,
I use spray cans for all my model painting. As much as I would love to try airbrushes, the really good systems are very expensive, and you need space for a booth.
Here are a couple of tips I learned when using spray cans:
1) Be sure the piece to be painted is very clean. Handle with gloves when mounting on a paint stand. I made my own paint stands with 1" X 3" boards. When washed, let the piece air-dry overnight in a dust free environment, like a china cabinet.
2) Preheat the spray can. I fill up a bathroom sink with hot water and let the cans sit in that for about 10 minutes. Shake the cans vigoursly to ensure good mixing.
3) Flat paints go on 'flatter' and smoother than gloss paints. If you need to decal your piece, a coat of testors gloss lacquer will help the decals adhere to the finish.
4) Apply the paint in short bursts while moving the can from one side to the next. Don't try to cover the whole piece in one shot. A little is better than a lottle. Turn the piece and apply short bursts to the other sides. Let the piece stand for a minute or two, and apply more very short bursts to cover any areas you missed with the first pass. The real trick is not to apply too much paint, leading to drips. If the can is too far away, you'll get the orange peel affect. If too close, you'll get drips. Practice first.
5) Let the piece dry, untouched for 24-48 hours, before continuing on to the next coat.
6) I paint little details, like bells, whistles and window frames, with a tiny brush. Again multiple light coats are better than trying to cover it all in one application.
7) Your paint job will never, ever look like the factory paint job. That's OK. With a working model, weathering and a flatter finish will make the locomotive look more realistic when operating.
8) When painting bare metal or plastic, a good primer is necessary so the main paint colors will adhere better.
9) Always remember to allow plenty of drying time between coats.
10) Practice, Practice, Practice. This really should be rule one. I have plenty of yucky looking models from early attempts at homemade paint jobs. There is a learning curve. Don't try this for the first time on a model you cherish.
11) Don't be afraid to try. You'll never learn if you don't try it.
Regards,
Jonathan
Practically every locomotive, freight car, passenger and caboose lettered for the GER and all the freight cars from other roads that I decalled were painted with spray bombs, automotive spray bombs at that.
Flat black for steam and diesel and primer red for freight cars. They were then given a light spray from a can of Testor's Glosscote for decalling and then an over spray of Testor's Dullcote. Ditto for freight cars. Passenger cars were sprayed from a can with GM ?, can't recall the name off hand but as that was a gloss paint I simply decalled them and then gave them a shot of Dullcote. Cabooses were sprayed with a suitable Testor's Red and then treated as above.
Spray bombs are cheaper and faster and I think do a suitable job. Now some people say that an airbrush is better but check out what you can see in the URLs in my sig. and you be the judge.
But the key is practice, practice, practice.
However, you are making this waaaaaaaaaaay too complicated. Just remove the numbers and apply new ones. No need to repaint anything.
Jonathan-
You should be using a spray booth with any spray paint, whether from an airbrush or a rattle can. Each has both toxic vapors and tiny blobs of paint which will seriously harm your lungs and possibly precipitate cancer. Don't believe that you aren't suffering damage because you aren't choking when you are done or coughing up blood. Spray paints are dangerous in any form although their consequences may not be seen until many years later. This is especially true in regards to their carcinogenic effects. Plus, loose vapors in the wrong place, like a basement with a standing pilot on a furnace or water heater, can -- and will -- explode.
If an outdoors-exhausting spray booth isn't a possibility no matter how hard you try, at least use a booth to trap the particulates and wear a vapor protecting mask to protect yourself from the vapors.
-- D
Not to worry, Doneldon. :)
I use disposable masks and paint in the garage. When I'm done applying a coat, (usually a 1-minute operation), I open the garage doors to vent the vapors, then leave the garage until aired out. Most of the particulates are caught by a moveable panel I set up behind the piece to be painted.
It's a little stinky, but I expose myself as little as possible. I have to be careful about the spray. God help me if any particulates get near my wife's car. ;D
Regards,
Jonathan
I've made my own "cheap" spray booth. Take a cardboard box open on three sides, then add an old box fan with a furnace filter on one side to "suckout" the overspray and fumes. As others have stated, don't paint in a room with a furnace or water heater or doesn't have out side air. I have a window in my basement and set this up so the fan is close the window to exhaust the fumes to the out side.
Jonathan-
If you are smelling the stinky vapors they are entering your lungs. Disposable masks cannot protect you from vapors. You need
a mask with a canister or canisters which can filter out those fumes. Harbor Freight has some which are reasonably priced, especially
if you have a coupon. There is a limit on how long the canisters remain effective but it's practically unlimited when only used a few
minutes at a time for painting. In truth, we should all be using such a mask any time we are painting with other than acrylic paints.
-- D