I just bought a DCC ready Climax NIB, but an older model. When I attempt to run it on my track it sits and "buzzes" with both headlights on. It has no decoder. Do I need to run it in DC mode in order to get it to work?
It won't work in dcc mode without a decoder
As it comes from bachmann it should have a shorting plug in place
Of the decoder so it can be run on dc.
Actually, if you have a Digitrax or Lenz system, you should be able to test run a DC (analog) loco using address "00". Just be advised that it isn't recommended to run a loco on this setting for any extended time due to overheating issues, and allowing the loco to sit idle on this setting may actually be worse than running it. This control feature is not enabled on MRC or NCE systems, so if you have one of these you'll need to install a decoder before you can test run the loco.
Bill in FL
Thanks for the replies. I will try to test run in DC mode to see if it is fully funtional. anyone know if Bachmann sells a decoder for the Climax separately?
If Bachmann does'nt, others do.
Bruce
i have three climax locos,two that keep losing the grip on the shafts at the universals. i have tried super glue at these points without success. is there another solution. also.none of these like the climb on my switchback layout;not enough traction,need a solution.
I opened a brand new Climax today and had the same slipping problem near the universal joint. The female part that attaches to the truck is cracked...on both trucks. Sad for a brand new locomotive. I sent Bmann a service notice/complaint a few minutes ago. But here is what I am thinking. A brass ring made from tubing of the right diameter and cut to length. Maybe around 1/16" but I haven't measured it yet. I think if this was pressed onto the part the crack wouldn't be able to expand the part causing slippage.
Thoughts?
Hi brownbr,
I can assure you your idea of using a piece of tube over the split gear, or universal coupling, will work very well.
I have had problems with components splitting on a number of models, and as I am in Australia, it is not easy to get replacements. I have used K&S aluminium tube to put a small sleeve over the hub of the split part, as the aluminium has a little bit of give (strechability) as you force the ring on. Fortunately K&S do a tube that is the ideal size for this job. Be sure to force the ring on square, and use a tiny bit of good quality super glue in the split, and on the hub as you put the ring on.
I also use a TINY amount of super glue on the shaft as I put the split part back on. This lot of super glue is best put in the hole in the part, not on the shaft. This allows the excess glue to be pushed out the end, rather than along the shaft and into the bearing, where it will cause you more headaches.
This not a particularly difficult job, so hopefully you can solve your problems this way.
RGS Goose.
Quote from: brownbr on January 19, 2012, 04:34:26 PM
I opened a brand new Climax today and had the same slipping problem near the universal joint. The female part that attaches to the truck is cracked...on both trucks. Sad for a brand new locomotive. I sent Bmann a service notice/complaint a few minutes ago. But here is what I am thinking. A brass ring made from tubing of the right diameter and cut to length. Maybe around 1/16" but I haven't measured it yet. I think if this was pressed onto the part the crack wouldn't be able to expand the part causing slippage.
Thoughts?
The retail law here in the UK is such that a faulty item such as you have received, MUST be refunded in full including 'out of pocket' expenses for returing the item. Or a replacement can be accepted if this is OK with the buyer. of course it may be different in the USA, but personally I would not keep a faulty NEW item.
Quote from: Stevelewis on January 20, 2012, 06:04:57 AM
The retail law here in the UK is such that a faulty item such as you have received, MUST be refunded in full including 'out of pocket' expenses for returing the item. Or a replacement can be accepted if this is OK with the buyer. of course it may be different in the USA, but personally I would not keep a faulty NEW item.
Consumer protection
laws vary somewhat state by state here in the U.S., but the bottom
legal line is similar to the UK.
The real fact is that I have never had any place of business, on-line or brick & mortar, refuse to take something (train related or not) that doesn't work back. In fact Bachmann Trains, our host here, normally recommends that something that is defective when taken out of the box be returned to the dealer it was purchased from, either for replacement or refund.
Bachmann also is very good about honoring their warranty. They do require some minimum proof of purchase and that the item be purchased from a Bachmann dealer. They try to avoid unreasonable warranty claims on items bought off Ebay, where virtually everything is advertised as "new," "rare," "never run,"or some other description that is not able to be verified. Even then, Bachmann will try to help with repair of non-dealer purchases, but they charge for that.
I assume the OP, "brownbr" is aware of all this, but seems to want to fix it himself. He didn't mention returing it to the dealer, so perhaps it is a non-dealer purchase and is not covered by warranty. Of course gluing bits to it will probably void any factory warranty.
Happy RRng,
Jerry
I was looking for a fix because I have contacted BMann customer care who referred me to parts who has yet to reply to my inquiry. I sent them my receipt from the online store I purchased it from. Hopefully they will reply. I am very frustrated.
Wanna get rid of it?
Thanks for the offer but no. I want to replace/repair it.
brownbr, Continue to try and get through to them, From my understanding, they ,Bachmann,Have had alot of trouble with all the geared models they offer. I have several of the rod engines,4-6-0s, and have never had one bit of trouble out of them. They are smooth as silk. I would love to see them produce a larger shay, but I hope they fix all the problems they are having first!! Good luck to you!!
Quote from: RGS Goose on January 20, 2012, 12:11:01 AM
Hi brownbr,
I can assure you your idea of using a piece of tube over the split gear, or universal coupling, will work very well.
I have had problems with components splitting on a number of models, and as I am in Australia, it is not easy to get replacements. I have used K&S aluminium tube to put a small sleeve over the hub of the split part, as the aluminium has a little bit of give (strechability) as you force the ring on. Fortunately K&S do a tube that is the ideal size for this job. Be sure to force the ring on square, and use a tiny bit of good quality super glue in the split, and on the hub as you put the ring on.
I also use a TINY amount of super glue on the shaft as I put the split part back on. This lot of super glue is best put in the hole in the part, not on the shaft. This allows the excess glue to be pushed out the end, rather than along the shaft and into the bearing, where it will cause you more headaches.
This not a particularly difficult job, so hopefully you can solve your problems this way.
RGS Goose.
What diameter tubing are you using? Also, does this require the removal of the driveshaft from the truck? I have 2 Climaxes with this problem and would like to get them repaired ASAP (and I will be going to the TCA show in York next week, so that's the perfect place to get the materials/tools needed).
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,13307.0.html
Hi dmolavi,
I used 1/8 O.D. K&S aluminium tube to make the sleeve for my Climax. I cut a piece about 1/16 long from the tube and then used a rat tail file to slightly taper the inside of the sleeve. I then pushed it onto the split drive shaft end, bigger opening in the tube first of course, with a TINY amount of super glue on the inside of the sleeve.
To get the drive shaft out of the model I took the cover off the cross gear box which allowed me to slide the shaft off the front of the truck without removing, or dismantling the truck, in any way. The split end on the shaft allows it to slide off easily.
Make sure you press the sleeve on square, as it is a tight fit. When the super glue is dry, push the cardan shaft back onto the truck carefully, as it will be a tight fit, and a hard push. You will need to put something at the inner end of the shaft in the truck, to allow you to slide the end of the cardan shaft right back on, and this can be done by bracing some packing between the face of the bevel gear and the axle. Make sure the packing you use will not damage the bevel gear teeth. Some medium to soft wood will do the job.
Then just reassemble the cross box with the shaft in place.
I did mine a long time ago, and only run it occassionally, as the layout is far from finished, but it runs perfectly every time I try it, and with this fix, at least this coupling is not likely to fail again.
Good luck. Let's know how you go with it.
RGS Goose.
I bought one of the On30 Climax a few weeks ago. I just got around to opening the box and tried to run it. The problem, it runs in reverse great, however forward is another issue. It will run for about 3 or 4 inches then stops. The motor is still turning I can see the side rods going back a forth but it will not move. I can not see a problem. Has anyone has had this type of problem with engine.
If you read this thread from the beginning you would have seen that this is a common problem. Go to the link posted at the top of this thread page 2.