This is to Rich - I read, in a previous post, that you put a decoder in the Bachmann Plymouth WDT switcher (which is incorrectly labeled "MDT")...how did you solve the poor power pick up of this model? As it comes from the factory, the Plymouth uses wheel>axle>frame method of transferring electrical power from the rail to the motor. In the best of circumstances, this is hit and miss (one of the reasons my beloved Plymouth sits on a shelf and I exclusively use my Bachmann GE 45-Ton). As you have mentioned, DCC is very 'picky' when it comes to power; I would think the Plymouth would be a 'bear' to keep running...heck, I had troubles on DC. Inquiring minds would like to know.

As an aside, this would be an excellent candidate (the Plymouth WDT) for a major upgrade. I can only hope Bachmann will consider this in the future...and I wouldn't mind an HO version of the On30 Whitcomb.

Regards,
Ray

I just did a Google search for "Ink Erasers" and found numerous sources. Those of you that wish to use the 'ink eraser' method of track cleaning might want to try that search. As an aside, I saw that Staples was listed as a source of said erasers.

Ray

While some of these suggestions may be cheaper...I'll stick with my tried and true Bright-Boy. When the 'pad' gets dirty, I simply fun it over some 150-grit sandpaper and it is as good as new. After the occasional 'bout' with the Bright-Boy I run a IHM Track Cleaning caboose over the rails. Since the Monks Island Railway is rather small, I don't fill the on-board tank - preferring to dampen the cleaning pad with Aerocar ACT-6006 Track Cleaner & Conditioner. As an aside, the ACT-6006 works as an excellent wheel/contact cleaner ('keeps my Bachmann GE 45-Tonner running like new).

Like spaghetti sauce, everyone has their own 'recipe' for clean track.

Regards,
Ray

Hack - There are numerous manufacturers of wheelsets on the market. I have used Walthers P2K and Kadee over the years and probably a few others that I can't remember. Do a 'Google search' on "HO wheelsets" and you will find several [many] sources. Another option is to go to the Walthers catalog (or their website) to find what you need. Generally speaking HO freight cars use 33" wheelsets (although 36" is not unknown). Again, just about every Internet discounter sells wheelsets.

Please note that I assumed that your reference to "flatbeds" was actually to "flatcars"...and not flatbed trucks.

Have a great day. I'm sure others will add posts to your query.

Regards,
Ray

I think our somewhat stagnant economy has taken its toll on hobby shops as I remember them in my youth. The Internet offers a myriad of options; many at lower prices than is possible with a brick and mortar store. The Internet advantage will be somewhat blunted as more and more states elect to collect sales tax from on line transactions - but the disparity will remain due to the increased overhead associated with traditional shops.

As the cost of living increases, and taxes take a larger and larger 'bite' out of ones disposable income, such extraneous things (like hobbies) will be drastically effected. A similar case in point: With the less expensive automobiles costing ~ $15,000+, families are keeping their present vehicles longer (averaging 11 years). The automobile industry has resorted to leasing as a mechanism for moving inventory. [Have you noticed that the automobile commercials tout the LEASE price and not the actual price (or monthly payment)?]

So, where does this leave the LHS? First I would caution one to avoid investing in that industry as things are likely to get worse. [How many LHS' have you seen 'go under'?] Secondly, tomorrow's model railroader will be more price conscience than they are today. This will result in smaller layouts and less 'stock'. Added to the economic pressures is the fact that housing (in the U.s.) is getting smaller...not larger. This will translate in much smaller layouts to fit withing the available square footage (many homes are currently being built without attics nor basements). The model railroader of the future will have to be very creative in order to carry on with their hobby. It would seem that we would be best served by taking a page from our European brothers and engage in mini layouts. [OK, U.K. members - jump in here.]

In summary, there will always be a number of 'brick and mortar' hobby shops - just as there will always be large, multi-level, layouts (although their numbers will most likely diminish). Internet vendors will most likely increase (particularly the larger ones) as that seems to be the way the market is heading. We may see a re-insurgence of train shows. I do not, however, see the end of the hobby; as we are blessed with a great many very clever members. Do yourself a favor and purchase a copy of Railway Modeller to see how our UK friends manage in very restricted living spaces...it can be done well. Also check out Carl Arendt's website for a veritable host of small layout ideas.

Regards to all,
Ray

A good machine shop can fabricate what you want out of stainless steel rod. Some turning on a lathe would be required; but the end product should satisfy your needs. I strongly suggest that you provide some measurements, and a picture, of what you are trying to accomplish. I also suggest that you are seated when you get the estimated cost as stainless rod is very expensive and shop time ain't cheap...especially a small, special order like yours.

Personally, I would go with one of the other model tanks, sand down the seam lines, and spray it with the aforementioned 'shiny' paint. Keep in mind that it is only a model...the assumption being you are not going to own a scale orange juice producing plant and actually store scale juice in the tanks.

Regards,
Ray

IR - It certainly looks like you want to have a manageable layout - with ample operations to keep your interest. I tend to agree with the other posts made: too many turnouts and too little car storage space. May I suggest you become familiar with Carl Arendt's website? http://www.carendt.com/ Plan on spending a lot of time perusing this wonderful website.

Another good website is English and concerns itself with shunting games ('shunting' means 'switching' in US-speak). This site is found at http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/[/url and is full of ideas for switching layouts.

I have been involved with mini layouts (and switching operations) for years. Please use the 'search' function to locate some of my previous posts on this forum (look under "Monks' Island Railway"). I have also made several contributions to the Free Rails Forum at [url]http://freerails.com/]http://freerails.com/]http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/[/url and is full of ideas for switching layouts.

I have been involved with mini layouts (and switching operations) for years. Please use the 'search' function to locate some of my previous posts on this forum (look under "Monks' Island Railway"). I have also made several contributions to the Free Rails Forum at [url]http://freerails.com/ where you can search under the Micro Layouts...Minis, Switching and Pizzas [p. 2 "Monks' Island"] There are also some [rather dated] pictures in the "Gallery" section. Operation is always a concern with very small layouts. How does one keep ones interest over the long run? I suggest you also see my posts on the Free Rails Forum site under "Operations" [p. 1 - two posts "Monks' Island..."]. I hope these suggestions are of use to you.  Ray

I have to agree with Roger that UK locomotives can be placed directly upon US rails and perform as expected (do keep in mind that US electricity does not have a Royal Patent...so it is best not to tell the locomotive it is running on 'Yank rails').

As far as a suggestion by a previous poster that The Signal Box is a good place to order UK items: There are many Signal Box(es) in the UK (i.e. the name is popular for hobby shops). I would imagine the reference is to The Signal Box of Rochester, UK (which I agree was an excellent place with which to trade). This business has gone into administration (bankrupcy) and is no longer in business.

My main problem, with modeling UK railways, is the inability to purchase some of the excellent limited run wagons - sometimes offered by modelling societies/clubs.

Cheers,
Ray

Check out the Soundtraxx website [www.soundtraxx.com] upon which there is a sound decoder listing for a 2-truck Shay. I am not familiar with this particular locomotive; but I would assume the same decoder would work for either the 2-truck, or 3-truck, Shay.

Ray

I, too, am 'dabbling' in English railway modeling. I have had excellent service from E. Hatton's in Liverpool, UK. They regularly ship to the U.S. and do not add the VAT to their overseas prices. You will wait a bit longer than shipment from a U.S. firm...but not all that much longer. E. Hatton's website is http://www.ehattons.com/

Assuming you are not a Brit, I strongly suggest you procure/subscribe to Railway Modelling, The Hornby Magazine and/or Model Rail magazines. Additionally be prepared to learn a new lexicon of railway terms when delving into English railway modeling; but that is all part of the fun.

Cheers,
Ray

JBrock - I am sorry I missed your two questions to my earlier post (I don't regularly follow the Forum anymore...and less so when we are on the road). OK, why clean the inside of the rail heads? A considerable portion of the electrical 'pick up' is through the wheel flanges - which tend to ride against the inside of the rail head. Is this absolutely necessary? No, but since you are cleaning the rails anyway, why not do a 100% job? Frequent running of your trains makes this job less important - due to friction between the wheel flange and the rail.

I use either my Bright Boy cleaning pad or an artist's eraser (white kind) for the cleaning of the inside rail heads. Please keep in mind that I am referring to the inside of the rail head...not the inside of the entire rail. In any event, frequent running of your trains and good environmental conditions will lengthen the interval between major cleanings. Don't forget those sidings; which don't get much traffic as a rule.

Regards,
Ray

I couldn't agree with RichG's post more...clean track is essential for reliable operation (especially so with DCC). I like to run a Bright Boy pad over all my track - once every 2 or 3 months. Without getting into chemistry and nickle oxide (III); one has to remove this oxide mechanically. Having said that the old Masonite-equipped pad (under a boxcar) works fairly well IF one starts with clean rails. [My Monks Island Railway is too short for this method to be practical.] So, bite the bullet, and realize that you will have to [occasionally] mechanically clean your rails...both rail heads and inside the top of the rail as well.

I have used liquid cleaner cars, such as the CMX model, but have found that they tend to be too heavy for my Bachmann GE 45-Ton locomotive to pull (the CMX car weighs 1 pound). What I have found useful is the old IHC Track Cleaning caboose. Since I have a short switching layout (10' x 15") I don't bother filling the enclosed tank - preferring to use a pipette to soak the felt pad. I highly recommend the Aerocar cleaner as the solvent. The 'caboose' can be pushed/pulled by a locomotive or the good old 0-5-0.

OK, so we have cleaned the rails; what else needs attention? I recommend that you consider vacuuming the rail bed with a low suction (electronics) vacuum. Additionally the operation of some sort of dust filter (I use the Sharper Image units) in your train room to lessen dust - which is a major contributor to layout 'gunk'. Do not over oil your locomotives and rolling stock as the excess oil will drip onto the roadbed - causing additional clean up problems.

Take a long look at the environmental conditions your layout has to endure. Is it in a basement? Are the walls and floor sealed? Is there a ceiling? Controlling the layout's environment can go a long way in keeping things clean.

Keeping good electrical contact has been a problem for our hobby since its beginning. Until battery technology is drastically improved we will continue to draw operational energy from the rails (well, except you cantenary guys)...at least in the smaller scales: Z, N, HO, OO. There are ways to lengthen the time between cleanings...but no reliable way to eliminate them.

Regards,
Ray

Nicely done bit of nostalgia. You might want to consider purchasing Kalmbach's "The HO Model Railroad That Grows" and build that very classic layout ('was my first 4' x 8' layout). This publication has long been out of print; but should be available on eBay.

Regarding Athearn locomotives of the 50s, and 60s: Avoid them like the plague! Athearn motive power of this era contained "Hi-F Drive" which consisted of two motor shafts - driving rubber bands. The first model locomotive I ever had (in HO anyway) was the Athearn Little Hustler. I had forgotten how awful it ran and some time ago decided to purchase one on eBay. The Little Hustler had X2F couplers and Hi-F drive (believe it or not those rubber band belts are still available) and goes down the track like a guided missile...not the best choice for a switching locomotive. The Little Hustler now resides on a display shelf.

Good luck in your efforts to recreate the 'days of yore',
Ray

Thank you so much for the warm words...they are appreciated. Hopefully my post has prevented someone from experiencing the loss of a cherished model. [PS: I didn't remember the connection between molecular size and expansion until I came across that article in Railway Modeller.] CA (cyanoacrylate) is more expensive than PVA adhesives; but would seem more applicable in this instance (one would not be using all that much in this instance). For my 2 cents, I will only use PVA for ballast, wooden/card structures and the like...not for the retention of metals - especially lead.

I suggest that each of you try to find a copy of Railway Modeller or The Hornby Magazine; if only to see how 'things' are done in the UK. Bachmann produces some awesome stock in its UK range. One example is their SECR C Class 0-6-0 that is stunning...how the heck did they find someone with a steady enough hand to stripe the driver axles?

Personally I do not model UK railways...'really don't know all that much about them. However I have canceled just about all my US model railroad publications as I am dissatisfied with how the material is presented. The aforementioned UK publications have a 'knack' of explaining things that is informative - without being overly simplified. WARNING: These publications are very expensive (~ $11/issue USD). My Railway Modeller subscription is digital (Kindle) and is ~ half the export print price. I am hoping The Hornby Magazine will follow suit. [Continental Modeller is already available in digital (Kindle) format.] Those of you, possessing a Kindle Fire HD, can download the Railway Modeller ap and view the latest issue for free. Be careful as you have to notify Amazon that you do not wish to actually subscribe to the magazine as the start (and subsequent renewals) are automatic.

So, in summary, thanks again for the well wishes and check out those magazines. In no time you will be sending for a Metcalfe card kit (I've built 3 and have no use for any...they were fun); or spending a 'fun filled' evening converting the NEM couplers on a 7-plank wagon to Kadees. Oh, E. Hatton's of Liverpool are wonderful to deal with and have an active supply-the-U.S.-with-OO-stuff program. Do keep in mind that the UK is mainly OO gauge with is slightly larger than HO (but is the same track gauge). Now if I Oxford Diecasting would only offer a Series II Land Rover 88...

Warmest regards,
Ray

As I had mentioned before, I had decided to exit from this thread's discussion; however I recently found important information regarding the use of lead shot and PVA adhesives (i.e. woodworking 'glue'). My reference is Dr. Alan Gee's letter in the January 2013 issue of Railway Modeller magazine [Vol. 64].

I will not include all of Dr. Gee's letter; but suffice it to say that in 2004 and 2005 he used a lead shot/PVA mixture in the side water tanks on his Backwoods Miniatures tank locomotives (English units - he doesn't specify which Class). Early last year he noticed the side tanks beginning to "swell outwards". This condition got progressively worse until the seams had physically split open.

Now here is the important point: "I know that lead over many years slowly chemically reacts with the free acetic acid in PVA white glue to form lead acetate. It is this larger lead acetate molecule expanding which causes distortion and swelling to occur, especially if it is trapped in a confined space, as in the locomotives' tanks."

Suffice it to say that Dr. Gee had a major problem on his hands - resulting in the disassembly (and subsequent rebuilding/repainting) of his locomotives. He says he now uses a solid piece of lead, cut to the tanks dimensions, to add weight OR uses lead shot held in place with CA.

Check the reference as I have left out much of his letter for brevity. There [probably] is enough room within a tank car's body to allow for the expansion of any resulting lead acetate. Personally I am not willing to take the chance and will use pennies + CA in the future.

Regards,
Ray