Hi wmwalker,

         671 here. Just a 'Heads Up'. If you are looking for a new Iron Pony, check out Trainland/Trainworld. They have three WbyB Scale Hudsons on sale, super pricing!

1.  Great Northern  @ $299.99

2.  Canadian Pacific @ $299.99

3.  Jersey Central    @ $329.99

           How is that Santa Fe Hudson doing? Hope all is well.

          Here is a quote from Dr. Frankenstein's Monster when he was in the blind man's house................................................" Smoke Good! "

                          Happy Halloween...671

         

Hi Bob Banjany,

                671 here.
                I have tried several different smoke fluids for the Seuthe type smoke units found within the Williams by Bachmann Steamers.
                Here are my results/opinions...

1.      The Bachmann fluid has a tendency to 'pop' and 'sputter' spitting excess fluid all over the Loco's boiler top.
2.      LGB fluid works well. No popping or spitting. It is rather expensive and difficult to locate.
3.      Seuthe fluid works as well as LGB fluid, but it is even more expensive than the LGB fluid.
4.      Mega Steam works well, I find the smell too strong for the train room. Cost, 2oz @ Trainland $4.99
5.      My personal best pick is CREST FLUID.
                   A.  It produces as much or more smoke, without spitting or popping, than the other above mentioned products
                   B.  The cost is much lower...4 oz. Bottle at trainland = $ 4.99
                   C.  I mix a few drops of Mega Steam into the Crest fluid for a nice lite aroma.
                   D.  I have gotten 15-20 minutes of smoke run time on one fill-up.

                              I like SMOKING Steamers, and this is what I get with Crest Smoke Fluid.

                                        Keep on smoking...671

Hi Srcjo,

         671 here. I think I have an answer to your question. If your sound system's motor rev sound is controlled strictly by voltage increase and decrease within a given voltage range, the solution is fairly simple.
         In a series circuit with two equal resistors, the voltage drop across these resisters is equal. For example using your voltage numbers the voltage is split between the two motors equally. Each 'SEES' ( consumes) 4 volts. Diagram below:
8 volt source..>>.......www..>......www...>>.. to ground. (www represent motor windings)
                           ^              ^
                         +8v.          +4v
         Tapping your voltage sensor after the first motor but before the second motor will yield a halving of the original input voltage. So the sound sensor which is dependant upon voltage will 'SEE' 1/2 of the voltage being supplied by the electronic E-unit.

                               I hope my crude diagram helps...671
   

wmwalker,

             How did the smoke shut-off switch work out for you?

                                                671

Tiger trains,

                I run a Christmas holiday display in the lobby of one of the office buildings that I am in charge of. ( 5' X 10' double loop layout ) I have been using the Lionel CW-80 for two years now with success.

                                                        671

Hi wmwalker,

            A quick tip on the smoker switch.

1.    Solder the wires to the switch first.
2.    Shrink wrap those solder points.
3.    Twist the two wires together to form a braid.
4.    Cut smoke unit's one wire.
5.    Wire in the switch wires to the smoker wires ( cut switch wires to correct length)
6.    Epoxy switch in place (5 minute epoxy) avoid glue into switch mechanism use a
             tiny amount of epoxy, one dot is plenty. Clamp in place until dry.
7.    Hot glue the braided pair of wires to upper interior of boiler.
8.    Reassemble Have Fun

                                       671

Hi wmwalker,

                  8 amp is fine. I have been using that same 8 amp bridge along with two additional 6 amp diodes to create electrically a 4 diode circuit in both electrical flow directions. I like the performance of this "4" diode set-up ( approx 3 volt drop ). I have been using it without fail for almost three years of heavy running. I solder the two extra diodes next to each other between the "Table Legs" of the bridge rectifier. It makes a nice small tight package. This ' Package ' fits into the well below the electrical board within the semi-scale Hudson, the J 484, and the Berkshire locomotive. The S2 Turbine does not have this well. I mounted my bridge and diode package on the Port side (left) of the loco. There is just enough room to mount it on it's edge with the 'table legs' facing the electronic 'E' unit board.
                   In the Scale Hudsons I mounted the bridge package within the tender. I tied into the wire harness that goes to the motor for my connections.
                  The Dallee circuit as printed on their website shows the bridge along with a single diode. I have the bridge rectifier with two additional diodes. I have not used any heat sinking for any of my locos. No problems as of yet. A 6 amp diode has enough capacity. I have measured my locos' amp loads, none have exceeded 4.5 amps on my upgrade pulling a long heavy train.
                  I have also installed a small slide switch to interupt the smoker's circuit. This allows me the option of turning off the smoker. This will extend the 'life' of the smoker. Simple setup, cut one wire on the smoker, solder two small wires with shrink tube. Extend this into the engineers cab, epoxy switch to the inside of the cab out of sight and you are all set.


                    "Smok'em if you got'em"...671

r0gruth,

         Yes, I use the Lionel ZW 275 watt postwar transformer. The starting voltage is actually 7+ volts. I have a MTH 1000 transformer which starts at a much lower voltage and allows the locos to 'Creep speeds'. The undesirable results at these low voltages is No Smoke production, poor lighting in caboose and passenger cars, also inconsistent whistle sounds.
          The modifying of the power feed to the electric motor with diode dropping circuit ( Joe Satnik ) (Dallee Diode Motor voltage circuit) creates many positive serendipitous results:
1.    Creeping speeds
2.    Better and more constant smoke production ( I use Crest smoke fluid add a few drops of Mega Steam smoke to the Crest bottle for aroma ). Great smoke no 'spitting'
3.    Consistant whistle sounds
4.    Brighter lighting in all cars and Loco
5.    Smoother starting and stopping ( less stress to drive gears )
6.    Cool motor temperatures ( No ill effects to my semi-scale Hudson for 2 1/2 plus years )

          The higher track voltage needed to run your trains at a desired speed gives you all of these extra benefits. From my own experience, I know that the smoke/headlamp circuit needs approximately 9+ volts input (Track Voltage ) to achieve its' design output of 7.9 volts. Any lower track voltage results in less than optimal voltage output at the voltage limiting circuit of the smoker/headlamp circuit.

                              Heading for the basement...to make Smoke...671  

Hi WMWalker,

           671 here. I love steamers. The smoke, the rods and the drive wheels. All that motion and sound is intoxicating.
           My first Williams by Bachmann steamer is the 2056 semi-scale NYC Hudson. I have had it for almost three years now. I power it with a Lionel 275 watt postwar transformer. The loco is so efficient that the Lionel transformer could not be set to a low enough voltage to satisfy my need for a ' Creeping Speed '.
           Joe Satnik had a great voltage reducing idea using diodes to solve this challenge.
           I use his idea by placing 4 diodes at the power feed to the electric motor. ( I use a full bridge rectifier and two diodes to accomplish this. ( See Dallee Motor Voltage Drop ).
           This loco now creeps, smokes super, and allows higher voltage to my passenger car's lighting systems.
           In closing; I now have in my stable two Scale Hudsons, one Semi-scale Hudson,one  S2 Turbine 671, one J 484, and one semi-scale Berkshire. All have been modified with the Joe Satnik diode voltage drop. They all run great.
           If you are looking to 'Steam Up'. Buy one of the S2 Turbines now on sale at Trainland...$174.99. These S2s are so smooth and powerful. Great, Great Runners.
           I love mine, I am sure you will be very pleased. Welcome to the smoking side.

                              Keep on Chuggin'...671

Hi Joe2343,

            Did you ever get a source for the Berkshire tires?  Williams seems to use traction tires as a banding of the wires around their drive motors. With a little luck, the band around the electrical motor will be the same size needed for your traction tire.
            If you have other Williams, Check them for traction tires.
            The "J" 4-8-4 Steamers may have the same tire size. You may want to inquire about those tires from the parts dept.
            It seems that the parts dept. scavenges parts off of returned to factory units. You may get lucky asking for Berkshire tires and "J" tires.
            When you install the new tires, use Elmer's rubber cement ( Available at stationary stores i.e. Office Depot  ) This will hold the tire to the wheel rim, reduce tire buckling, and extend tire life.
            The rubber cement cleans off easily and never hardens.

                                  Good Luck...671

3rd Rail,

          Thanks for the ' Heads Up '

                                               671

Hi Davidone,

            The Williams EP-5 uses the same power trucks as does your E-7 ( #00243 kit ). Here is a simple and less expensive way to get all the parts you need plus extra parts including a true blast II unit complete.

            Go to the Wholesale Trains web site on line. Currently in there O gauge sale section they have the Pennsylvania EP-5 on sale for # BAC 41905 @ $79.99 or the BAC 41906 @ 81.49.

            You can easily "GUT OUT" these locos for all the parts you need for your E-7 upgrade with spare parts left over.

            If you buy two of the same for $160.00, you could "GUT" the one for the E-7 upgrade and use the parts removed from the E-7 to make a dummy out of the EP-5.

           Buying the loco, at this price, is cheaper than buying the upgrade kit !!!!



            Attention:  Cobrabob...I know you are a Pennsy guy, this may be a good time to add a pony or two to the "stable"

                                  Keep on Chuggin'...671

lelandb124,

              I will try to guide you through the steps that I would take if I had a similar problem.
1.   Remove the shell from the chassis of the powered PA1 unit.
2.   View the interior. Are the wires going to both motors allowing free movement of the motors and rotation of the trucks?
3.   Turn the rear weighted flywheel on the motor by hand. Make note of the amount of effort that is needed for this task.
4.   Turn the front motor's flywheel in a similar way. Any different amount of effort noted?
5.   If more effort is needed on the rotation of the front motor than the rear, see step #6
6.   Remove front motor from its' truck. This can be accomplished by turning the chassis upside down and locating a philips head screw directly below the electric motor. Remove this screw, it goes through the truck base directly into the motor. With this screw removed, you can upright the chassis, and with a simple turn on the motor's flywheel, remove the motor.
7.   With the motor separated from the truck, you should be able to rotate the motor's flywheel to check for binding. With the motor off it's mount you can also check for binding in the drive wheels and gears.
8.   I would venture to guess that you may find the binding to be in the  wheels and drive gears rather than in the motor itself.
9.   If no binding is located, reassemble with care  to properly mesh the gearing. Rotate the motor flywheel again by hand. If no binding, than the binding was at the motor to truck mating.

                                                 Good luck ...671
 

Juniata Guy,

              I believe that Lee F. was referring to the pick up assembly, not just the roller.

                                                        671

Lee F.,

      I use magnetic screwdrivers for these small screws. I also use a tuna fish can, as a parts bin, for all of the small parts that I remove from the Loco. This keeps them all in one place with little chance of dropping them onto the floor.

      If you do not have magnetic tools, dip the screw driver tip into some sticky chassis grease or household Vaseline. This will hold the screw to the tip of the driver allowing easy installation with an easy cleanup.

                          Good luck...671