Unless things have changed in the last couple of years, as long as you have a receipt, and have had the engine for less than a year, it will be still under warrantee. You will have to pay the shipping to them, but the rest is covered.

On a personal note-  I have not had any luck with my shay. The first time I ran it, the gears were stripped. The second time the circuit board went bad in the first foot. When it came back all it did was just sit there, right out of the box.  The only thing that works is the headlight. I gave up and use it as a static engine. No more shays for me.

But to be fair, I have 2 climax's, and 3 consolidations. All work fine.

Bruce

E-Z track does not bend except at the joints. You should be able to get "some" rise at the joints, but they will not be a curved joint, just an angle change. If you do go the E-Z track route, I would think you would be better off using shorter sections of track. That way you could make the transition smoother.

Bruce

You have it figured out. The reason it will turn sharper to the left is the the drive shaft is extended and will allow the truck to pivot more. When turning to the right, the drive shaft is squeezed together and does not allow as much right turn. You could shorten the drive shaft and allow more right turn, but then the drive shaft would fall out when turning left.

Bruce

The catalogs are usually available  in mid February or march.
Bruce

I bought my K-27 and Forney from Micro-Mark. But alas, they are getting away from large scale trains.

And it is sad about Ridge Road Station. I have purchased several items from them.

Bruce

Get yourself a small needle nose pliers, and gently bend the couplers uncoupling bars up so they do not hit the magnets. They probably don't need much.

Bruce

QSI also has sound cards for the K-27.

Bruce

Hi. I'm with you one this, keep it. It may not be collectable, but the fact that it is Bachmann's first electric G gauge set, does make it special.

Bruce

Have you called Precision Scale? I bought one from them about six months back. [it is the brass one you are talking about].

Bruce

I plan on seeing it today.  And there better be lots of destruction, or I getting my money back.

Bruce

As far as beer car names go, O scale is way ahead. There are dozens of names.

But it is funny this should come up. I am trying to stay with the 1:20.3 scale, but I have been thinking about getting the beer cars and put run with my smaller engines

Bruce

Main question is, is your wall solid grouted, or do you have empty cells? If you have empty cells, you can drill a hole in the block and use a bolt with a butterfly nut to anchor the rackets to the block. This is easy. If your cells are grouted, you will need to use a red-head type anchor bolt. That is a bolt with an expanding sleeve that tightens in the hole. I would not put any anchors in the joints. You might cause the joint to crack. Be sure to use a masonry drill bit if you go this route.

Bruce

If your looking for the size of the model, it is 1 and seven/eights" by 2 and one/eight".

Bruce

I used to have a Williams SD-45, and I liked it a lot. A good puller and dependable. I changed to 2-rail, so I sold it.

If I am not mistaken, The Crown line was scale. Or at least as close to 1/48th scale as 3-rail trains were back then.

Bruce

Thanks guys!   Thanks for putting it back into perspective for me. I should have known these things.

I will be getting one of these. I plan on changing it somewhat though. I would like to enclose the cab, and put Kadee couples on it.

1/32 is what I meant to say. I was typing quickly and did not proof my writing. Thanks again.

Bruce