I've noticed there has been an awful lot of new threads of people needing help with their loco's issues and problems. So I though I might as well make a thread for all help related questions, to save space on the message board. Sound like a good idea? If not then leave it alone to be deleted.
-Jared
Fantastic Idea in my opinion, very much needed.
I always thought about making a thread like this, but I always thought it might just be shot down and deleted. I'm glad to see I was wrong ;).
Well, it's a good idea, but chance are people may not use it.
-Tanner
I was wondering if there was aspecific way to clean thomas models. Is there?
You know the help thread wold be a great idea for an example I could go to it and ask to see if I can find out how to restore a diesel and it would save room on the Message board brilliant idea.
How exactly do you plan to restore it?
My Thomas model is always having problem going after a few minutes and is needing constant cleaning on the wheels, is there something wrong with the contacts? Or is it nothing?
Also how do you fix a broken buffer on an engine?
Quote from: mrrailroad on May 15, 2013, 12:42:27 AM
I was wondering if there was aspecific way to clean thomas models. Is there?
Cleaning plastic trains has been a concern for a long time. A disassembly of your train to remove the drive mechanism is first. Use a mild dish soap dissolved in water and a soft brush (like a natural paint brush). Avoid rubbing!, cotton can scratch, a non-abrasive eyeglasses cloth works. It could remove paint or scratch surfaces. Pat dry anything that could rust right away, oil metal
lightly and it will be ok. Failure to pat dry can leave mineral deposits(water spots). Don't use simple green, or other spray cleaners, they can destroy plastic and/or paint. Often just dusting regularly, with a dry paint brush or similar is enough to keep them nice. Don't forget to lube your engines chassis once about every 10hrs of run time, too. If the loose their shine, I have used some plastic polishes and/or waxes to improve looks.
An alternate would be Q-tips, tissue, and careful wiping, to avoid taking it apart. As long as everything metal is dried fully ASAP and lightly oiled rust shouldn't be an issue.
Quote from: sodorfan on September 02, 2013, 05:49:29 PM
My Thomas model is always having problem going after a few minutes and is needing constant cleaning on the wheels, is there something wrong with the contacts? Or is it nothing?
Cleaning the track too? (alcohol or cleaning fluid only). If so it is just your environment. The electricity itself acts as an attractant for dirt and gunk. It pulls molecules right out of the air. Time to research track cleaning cars too. You could make one, many people do. Or maybe convert one, ready made, to be more "Sodor" like.
I do clean the track a lot, and have a track cleaner ( car and pad ), my layout has been needing constant cleaning due to most of my rolling stock having plastic wheels or the family cat, my other engines do better but thomas is the most sensitive to this. I just post a vid to explain.
Plastic wheels will do it! You know you can probably get metal ones to swap right in, don't you? It will run better because cars will roll easier, and stay cleaner too.
Ok thanks, I was thinking about doing that sometime soon.
Quote from: sodorfan on September 19, 2013, 07:50:15 PM
Ok thanks, I was thinking about doing that sometime soon.
Search for "tuner" with B-mann search feature, you will find some threads on "truck tuners" there. Read up on truck tuners in the regular parts of the forum. Some of them have some good axle info too.
Anybody know how I could fix my chassis on Bachmann Thomas? It runs terrible (especially in reverse) even if I clean the wheels and track it still doesn't run well. ???
your problems would seem to stem more from the cat than plastic wheels. from my extensive experience in the days when plastic wheels were the norm, they don't make much of a difference with a dc layout. dcc, being much more sensitive to dirt, is a different story.
you may also be affected by one or more of the following: track with steel or brass rail, a dirty or dusty environment, layout exposed to cigarette smoke or cooking fumes.
Hi. I'm back! Okay, my question is, My Bachmann Henry was just normally going around the loop of track I have, not going very fast, but then it sparked, and fell off the tracks. I don't know why, but now it doesn't run. Did something happen to the motor, or do I have to buy a new one?
~ThomasBachmannRemakes
Quote from: ThomasBachannRemakes on November 03, 2013, 09:42:09 AM
Hi. I'm back! Okay, my question is, My Bachmann Henry was just normally going around the loop of track I have, not going very fast, but then it sparked, and fell off the tracks. I don't know why, but now it doesn't run. Did something happen to the motor, or do I have to buy a new one?
~ThomasBachmannRemakes
Quote from: jward on November 02, 2013, 06:26:25 PM
your problems would seem to stem more from the cat than plastic wheels. from my extensive experience in the days when plastic wheels were the norm, they don't make much of a difference with a dc layout. dcc, being much more sensitive to dirt, is a different story.
you may also be affected by one or more of the following: track with steel or brass rail, a dirty or dusty environment, layout exposed to cigarette smoke or cooking fumes.
Well, my layout is in a humid area, so that may be why.
As for Henry, Thomasbachannremakes, that sounds perculiar.
Quote from: sodorfan on November 03, 2013, 11:16:43 AM
Quote from: ThomasBachannRemakes on November 03, 2013, 09:42:09 AM
Hi. I'm back! Okay, my question is, My Bachmann Henry was just normally going around the loop of track I have, not going very fast, but then it sparked, and fell off the tracks. I don't know why, but now it doesn't run. Did something happen to the motor, or do I have to buy a new one?
~ThomasBachmannRemakes
Quote from: jward on November 02, 2013, 06:26:25 PM
your problems would seem to stem more from the cat than plastic wheels. from my extensive experience in the days when plastic wheels were the norm, they don't make much of a difference with a dc layout. dcc, being much more sensitive to dirt, is a different story.
you may also be affected by one or more of the following: track with steel or brass rail, a dirty or dusty environment, layout exposed to cigarette smoke or cooking fumes.
Well, my layout is in a humid area, so that may be why.
As for Henry, Thomasbachannremakes, that sounds perculiar.
perculiar? ???
Well, I ment that it was strange, but it sounds like Somthing is wrong with the contacts, but I'm not the expert on this.
Quote from: sodorfan on November 03, 2013, 07:03:54 PM
Well, I ment that it was strange, but it sounds like Somthing is wrong with the contacts, but I'm not the expert on this.
What do you mean by "contacts"? :-\
first of all, is henry the only engine you have? if you have another does it run normally over that section of track?
have you looked at the track where henry derailed? are the rails aligned with no bump in the track?
have you tried touching a 9 volt battery to henry's drive wheels? did the locomotive run?
Quote from: jward on November 04, 2013, 07:53:53 AM
first of all, is henry the only engine you have? if you have another does it run normally over that section of track?
have you looked at the track where henry derailed? are the rails aligned with no bump in the track?
have you tried touching a 9 volt battery to henry's drive wheels? did the locomotive run?
Yes, he is my only engine (not for now >:I)
Yes, well.... there is a tiny bump, like half a centimeter. ???
No?
Open him up CAREFULLY and see what you find. My guess would be a burned out motor, but it is best to check. Once you find out, tell and we can help with how to fix him. Good luck!
BTW- my collection took me almost three years to accumulate, and I only have half the trains available! Don't worry, eventually you will be proud of the collection you have made. Just have fun!!! Depending on how old you are, you could exchange good grades or chores for trains. That's the route I took! Trust me, it works.
~FF17
Quote from: Fergusfan17 on November 04, 2013, 06:49:23 PM
Open him up CAREFULLY and see what you find. My guess would be a blown motor, but it is best to check. Once you find out, tell and we can help with how to fix him. Good luck!
BTW- my collection took me almost three years to accumulate, and I only have half the trains available! Don't worry, eventually you will be proud of the collection you have made. Just have fun!!! Depending on how old you are, you could exchange good grades or chores for trains. That's the route I took! Trust me, it works.
~FF17
Ahhhh, dang it. The motor is blown. Guess I gotta buy a new one. (Chores) I do do that. I have like $140 dollars, but I wanna buy some wooden railway stuff, since I collect wooden railway (rare), ERTL, and bachmann.
Thanks for the advice! Also, I have been reading reviews about Bachmann Thomas products, and some people say that the motor melts, and the train doesn't work anymore. Should I continue collecting bachmann products, or should I collect something else? I'm not insulting Bachmann, (I'm soooo sorry if I accidentally do) but i don't wanna waste my money collecting electric trains if they break so easily. :P
Just got Facebook + Twitter account :D Also, creating website + other stuff. I will post a update thread on 11/09/13!
that bump in your track is 1/2 cm? that's not a small bump that's enough to derail anything that runs over it. is the rail inside the rail joiner or on top of it where the bump is?
did your locomotive hit the floor?
before you assume, as some others have, that the motor is "blown" do yourself a favour. get a 9 volt battery, the kind with the snap on terminals. touch the terminals to the wheels and see if it runs.
I had asked 6 questions previously, only got an answer to one of them. can't help if I don't have the answers. problems need to be approached logically, taking hit or miss shots in the dark will not solve the problem. eliminating the possible causes one by one will.
we've already established there is a problem with your track. correct that. next we need to determine whether the locomotive is damaged, or if the controller is. thus, the 9 volt battery trick. it would also help if you had more than one engineso we could see if the other one runs.
Quote from: jward on November 04, 2013, 08:44:13 PM
that bump in your track is 1/2 cm? that's not a small bump that's enough to derail anything that runs over it. is the rail inside the rail joiner or on top of it where the bump is?
did your locomotive hit the floor?
before you assume, as some others have, that the motor is "blown" do yourself a favour. get a 9 volt battery, the kind with the snap on terminals. touch the terminals to the wheels and see if it runs.
I had asked 6 questions previously, only got an answer to one of them. can't help if I don't have the answers. problems need to be approached logically, taking hit or miss shots in the dark will not solve the problem. eliminating the possible causes one by one will.
we've already established there is a problem with your track. correct that. next we need to determine whether the locomotive is damaged, or if the controller is. thus, the 9 volt battery trick. it would also help if you had more than one engineso we could see if the other one runs.
Yes, it hit the floor. Motor is blown. Getting new one soon
motors don't blow. they burn out, if they are forced to draw too much power due to things like gears or side rods binding. more likely, the fall knocked some contacts loose inside.
it's your engine though. maybe you'll take better care of the new one.
Quote from: jward on November 04, 2013, 09:00:03 PM
motors don't blow. they burn out, if they are forced to draw too much power due to things like gears or side rods binding. more likely, the fall knocked some contacts loose inside.
it's your engine though. maybe you'll take better care of the new one.
Sorry, meant burnt out or whatever
I'm tired right now. Give me a break ._.
Hey guys! I was going to post pictures of my layout, but I don't know how to put in pictures from your computer files. I know how to put in pictures from websites etc., but I can't seem to do it with filed pictures!
Please Respond! -ThunderbirdComics
you can't upload pix to the Bachmann site from your computer. you have to use an internet account like photo bucket or flikr.
Hi, back again. I want to make Gordon's Hill on my layout, but I don't know how to get the track to go up. Any suggestions?
Quote from: ThomasBachannRemakes on November 17, 2013, 01:28:23 PM
Hi, back again. I want to make Gordon's Hill on my layout, but I don't know how to get the track to go up. Any suggestions?
Use granulated piers, them cover them up with paper mâché or something. See DieselD199's most recent video to see what I mean.
what's a granulated pier?
Piers here, http://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=pier
Or check out graduated risers from Woodland Scenics http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/video/Risers
piers here, hot dogs here, get your programs here!! :D
You may also try peering at Bachmann's peers piers? :o :D ::) Also try the keyword "trestle" on google/bing
(One hotdog, mustard ;D What no drinks ??? Program? No thanks, I already have Anyrail-free and SCARM ;))
I need your help with SCARM. Can you provide it?
Id try. ;)
It's that time of year again, folks! I need help finding where to buy Bachmann Thomas models for a semi-low price. I have tried Amazon, but they are running out of the impt characters. Help is needed. Thanks
google the favorite spot. they have some of the lowest prices around.
Thanks y'all... Found what I was lookin for
i have some dumb questions
1: what is the best track to use for the thomas engines
2: what would cause the engines to smoke if tracks are clean and theres no shorts in wiring or track connections
will also post in the help thread
smoke is not good. it means something is overheating, which usually means there is too much current for whatever is hot. in other wordz, a SHORT in your locomotive.
best to park the locomotive and try another.
ok thanks
Hello all, question to anyone with Hornby products. If I were to order a Flying Scotsman for my layout, would the tender derail on a 22" curve? I don't want to order it then discover it won't run properly.
Who knows ??? That company speaks its own language when it comes to curves. Whatever a "third radius" is (the Hornby site assumes you know this). Know wonder its avoided like the plague in the states. Id skip it and buy something Bachmann.
Quote from: PasqualeCS96 on December 25, 2013, 08:46:05 PM
Hello all, question to anyone with Hornby products. If I were to order a Flying Scotsman for my layout, would the tender derail on a 22" curve? I don't want to order it then discover it won't run properly.
I have a Hornby Murdoch and he handles 18" curves fine. If a Hornby 9F can handle 18" curves, then an A1 can take on 22" curves
i have the Hornby scotsmann and it runs fine on 18" radius and the loop of 15" radius i have
Quote from: shining time on December 26, 2013, 11:42:12 AM
i have the Hornby scotsmann and it runs fine on 18" radius and the loop of 15" radius i have
Quote from: Anthony P2 on December 26, 2013, 10:49:44 AM
Quote from: PasqualeCS96 on December 25, 2013, 08:46:05 PM
Hello all, question to anyone with Hornby products. If I were to order a Flying Scotsman for my layout, would the tender derail on a 22" curve? I don't want to order it then discover it won't run properly.
I have a Hornby Murdoch and he handles 18" curves fine. If a Hornby 9F can handle 18" curves, then an A1 can take on 22" curves
Thank you both for the help! I will most likely get it now. One last question, the model is tender driven correct?
If anybody uses scenic cement on their layout a lot, I would like to ask a few questions to see that my bottle is alright. I don't know too much about it, and was wondering what's supposed to happen with the ground cover after you use it, to see if my batch is working how it's supposed to.
-ThunderbirdComics
Quote from: PasqualeCS96 on December 26, 2013, 03:14:08 PM
Quote from: shining time on December 26, 2013, 11:42:12 AM
i have the Hornby scotsmann and it runs fine on 18" radius and the loop of 15" radius i have
Quote from: Anthony P2 on December 26, 2013, 10:49:44 AM
Quote from: PasqualeCS96 on December 25, 2013, 08:46:05 PM
Hello all, question to anyone with Hornby products. If I were to order a Flying Scotsman for my layout, would the tender derail on a 22" curve? I don't want to order it then discover it won't run properly.
I have a Hornby Murdoch and he handles 18" curves fine. If a Hornby 9F can handle 18" curves, then an A1 can take on 22" curves
Thank you both for the help! I will most likely get it now. One last question, the model is tender driven correct?
no mine is loco driven
part of the hornby "Railway" line
Could someone please at least elaborate on what 1st, 2cnd, 3rd, 4th. etc Radius means? In 40 years I have never heard these terms and can find no reference to them outside the Hornby site. What a silly way to try and sell track. Take note Bachmann, better photos (always appear very low pixel), and more complete info in your catalogs might sell a few more trains too. I have passed on more than a few items due to lack of info in the catalogs before, and will again. Its not like I can go to any old store to see one or handle one. Sorry for the minor bash, I love you guys, but catalog and store info containing real detail vs pretty words and sales smack, is somewhat lacking here too :-[.
Recently, about two days ago, I was running my Henry model when suddenly he made this grinding noise and stopped. There were no sparks or anything, but when I went to inspect it, he was able to roll without power (freewheel), but did not work on power. Wheneevr another engine is on the same line, they go very slow and are unresponsive. Any help would be great as to what the problem is and how to fix it.
thanks,
FF17
@Anthony P2 @shining time
I'm sorry for all the questions but if I were to get a Hornby Flying Scotsman, would it run on a 72" x 45" oval of track? It's from Bachmann's Overland Limited set and I misunderstood the description of the track it comes with.
the 45" dimension translates to 22r curves. others here have already state they can run theirs on 18r.
just a hint:
if you're going to be planning a layout you'll nee to brush up on your basic geometry. it's hard to plan a workable layout if you have no idea how much space things will take up.
GWR, GWR, PANNIER POWER, i love those pannier tanks like the class 2721's all runn on my layout is Tank Engine's
http://www.flickr.com/photos/86150435@N04/11614927425/
Quote from: PasqualeCS96 on December 28, 2013, 09:15:45 AM
@Anthony P2 @shining time
I'm sorry for all the questions but if I were to get a Hornby Flying Scotsman, would it run on a 72" x 45" oval of track? It's from Bachmann's Overland Limited set and I misunderstood the description of the track it comes with.
that would be fine the flying scotsman will run smoothly
Quote from: shining time on December 29, 2013, 06:44:14 PM
Quote from: PasqualeCS96 on December 28, 2013, 09:15:45 AM
@Anthony P2 @shining time
I'm sorry for all the questions but if I were to get a Hornby Flying Scotsman, would it run on a 72" x 45" oval of track? It's from Bachmann's Overland Limited set and I misunderstood the description of the track it comes with.
that would be fine the flying scotsman will run smoothly
Quote from: jward on December 28, 2013, 11:31:54 AM
the 45" dimension translates to 22r curves. others here have already state they can run theirs on 18r.
just a hint:
if you're going to be planning a layout you'll nee to brush up on your basic geometry. it's hard to plan a workable layout if you have no idea how much space things will take up.
Thank you!
How do you fix the buffers on bachmann Percy
???
post some pictures of it if you need to glue the use a plastic weld such as tenax 7r or ambroid
I need help with a converted Toby. some time ago I converted my Toby model to DCC then after a while he didn't run as smoothly as when i first converted him. then after a while longer he started would jerk as he moved along. so i ordered a new chassis and motor unit and converted that to DCC. now I'm back to my problem again, and before anyone asks, yes, i oiled him, cleaned the track, cleaned the wheels....the whole nine yards. i wired everything up correctly according to the Digitrax instructions, and made sure I did. I do have some basic knowledge with electronics but not as much as some of the experts.
I'm getting a start on the old coaches and I'm wondering, does anyone have any tips on how to paint them? ??? (Like the little areas around the windows, for example.)
Does anyone know how to paint bachmann James's wheels and what paint should I use for it
I used Humbrol #21 Gloss black enamel, to match the finishes of the rest of the model. Take off the side rods, by unscrewing the teeny tiny bolts holding them on. Then, use a fine brush and a steady hand to paint the wheels.
I wouldn't recommend the mod unless you are super confident though.
Hey everyone,
Any ideas on replacing buffers for engines? Some of my engines are missing a few, notables include Edward and Diesel... ::)
Hey guys, I didn't want to start a new thread to ask this question, so I found this one to repost.
Anyway... I recently bought a Hornby Flying Scotsman on eBay. There is a problem with the engine / tender in that the engine will work on curves, but it will not work on straight pieces of track. Once it gets to a straight section, the engine stops.
Has anyone had the same problem / know how to fix it?
Quote from: TBModels on January 31, 2016, 08:37:18 AM
Hey guys, I didn't want to start a new thread to ask this question, so I found this one to repost.
Anyway... I recently bought a Hornby Flying Scotsman on eBay. There is a problem with the engine / tender in that the engine will work on curves, but it will not work on straight pieces of track. Once it gets to a straight section, the engine stops.
Has anyone had the same problem / know how to fix it?
I think most likely get the answer you need by posting this on the Hornby Forum.
Is it the Hornby Thomas & Friends Flying Scotsman you have problems with? I can only imagine it is this one, as you are posting it in the Thomas & Friends section.
Hey everyone,
Any ideas on replacing buffers for engines? Some of my engines are missing a few, notables include Edward and Diesel...
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #69 By Racing James!: I know that Bachmann have a pretty good spare parts range, so the buffers may be included.
Thanks Jacob, I'll be sure to take a look!!
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #71 By Racing James!: It is alright and I am sorry for upsetting you. I know you do not like me, or anybody else on this Forum. I cannot see myself posting anything again, and I think this will be best for everybody then, so I do not upset anybody, or stop them from posting anything.
Your choice, whatever you do!
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #73 By Racing James!: Well I have been told to do this, not literally, but in the way of several User's telling me off. I do not do these things on purpose, and nobody seems to listen to saying that, so it looks like I will have to leave. I don't really want to do that, but if it get's User's logging on and posting, then I have no choice but too.
QuoteI think most likely get the answer you need by posting this on the Hornby Forum.
Is it the Hornby Thomas & Friends Flying Scotsman you have problems with? I can only imagine it is this one, as you are posting it in the Thomas & Friends section.
No, it is not a Hornby
Thomas Flying Scotsman. It is a regular Hornby Flying Scotsman.
I posted this under the Bachmann Thomas forum as I know a good number of users are from the UK and may have an idea on how to fix it.
Any help would be appreciated. :)
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #75 By TBModels: I suggest you get into contact with the Model Railway Doctor at http://www.modelrailwaydoctor.co.uk/. My Dad has sent loads of different Locomotives off to him for all sorts of motor problems and he never declined any of them, and he made them all run as if they where brand new, after their operation's!
I suggest though you get into contact with him first though, before you send off your Loco to him, so he knows to expect your package and he has a rough idea of what to do, and I imagine he will give an estimated cost at the time of what he will charge you for it.
Quote from: Racing James! on January 31, 2016, 03:17:06 PM
Hey everyone,
Any ideas on replacing buffers for engines? Some of my engines are missing a few, notables include Edward and Diesel...
The parts catalog doesn't offer buffers as a separate sale item for either of these two characters. You can however look into purchasing a new body shell for $15-20 which has the buffers included if you feel like replacing the body shells on your current models. Otherwise, I'd suggest contacting the service department and having your models replaced.
Edward is five years old, Diesel is four, and normal wear and tear has broken the buffers off. I don't have the original packaging, nor do I have the receipts from either purchases. Would Bachmann still replace them? (My best guess is a resounding YES, APPARENTLY :D! :P)
Actually yes you can! Bachmann products have a lifetime warranty. You have to pay $25 for maintenance/replacement. Otherwise yes you can return any of the products regardless of when you purchase them and they can fix/replace them for you.
Quote from: Chaz on February 02, 2016, 05:10:08 PM
Actually yes you can! Bachmann products have a lifetime warranty. You have to pay $25 for maintenance/replacement. Otherwise yes you can return any of the products regardless of when you purchase them and they can fix/replace them for you.
So I could return any of my broken models, even if they don't have a receipt or anything?
Yes you can do that. They have fixed some of my previous models before, Edward in particular actually by coincidence. If you had the model for under a year they will fix/replace the model for free, if not then you have to pay a service/repair fee. I would suggest calling the service department before mailing your models out before you do.
That's so cool, Chaz! Thanks!
^^^^ Above 4 Replies - @Reply #79 and ^^ Above 2 Replies - @Reply #81 By Chaz: That is very interesting. I have never heard of a full life-time warranty on model railway products before. Why do Bachmann do this then?
Surely I would not be able to do this with my Donald, who has a dodgy motor, as a UK resident?
I don't see why not. I'm not too farmiliar with the process but usually a manufacturer will fix any one of their products no matter how long its been since you bought it. Sometimes for a fee and sometimes for free.
Yes Bachmann has a life time warranty,thats why a narrow gauge engine costs $149.00,ridiculous !!!!!!!!!!
RANT OVER
UPTODAY
^^ Above 2 Replies - @Reply #84 By thomasj219: I purchased my Donald in February 2015. Who would pay for the postage though if I did this? I or Bachmann? With the amount postage costs in the UK to the USA and back, I may as well just buy another one.
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #85 By UPTODAY: I do not think it is to do with Bachmann's Warranty, why Skarloey's RRP is $149.00. Skarloey is this price because of his licensing, the fact he is a OO-9 Gauge Locomotive and how difficult and expensive he would be to produce. Think about it Steve (UPTODAY), designing a motor that is powerful and will fit in a bodyshell that is to the correct OO-9 Gauge scale. This is difficult to do, and that this stage with Bachmann releasing this new range, which was at risk of losing money from it, Skarloey is worth $149.00. Until the Narrow Gauge range becomes more popular, it will stay expensive and Bachmann will need to release more products in it as well.
Quote from: UPTODAY on February 02, 2016, 06:47:35 PM
Yes Bachmann has a life time warranty,thats why a narrow gauge engine costs $149.00,ridiculous !!!!!!!!!!
RANT OVER
UPTODAY
obviously you have never looked at actual narrow guage models. $149 is on the low end even for a standard guage model.
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #87 By jward: When you say the "actual Narrow Gauge models", are talking about the Bachmann or the PECO models?
Quote from: jward on February 02, 2016, 07:16:38 PM
Quote from: UPTODAY on February 02, 2016, 06:47:35 PM
Yes Bachmann has a life time warranty,thats why a narrow gauge engine costs $149.00,ridiculous !!!!!!!!!!
RANT OVER
UPTODAY
obviously you have never looked at actual narrow guage models. $149 is on the low end even for a standard guage model.
Adding to this, many websites have Skarloey for reasonable price- I've been eyeing one for a little bit more than one hundred dollars- link if you're interested ---> http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LNFCDM&P=FB&Q=1
Edit- Whoops, looks like that site is out of stock :P sorry guys...
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #89 By Racing James!: I cannot really hunt around for offers for Skarloey, as I live in the UK, so I can only get mine from the only Bachmann Thomas & Friends HO Gauge retailer in the UK, called The Diesel Works. He is sold here for £70.00, which is precisely $100.84, according to Google's British Pound to US Dollar Converter!
Quote from: Jacob Wilson on February 02, 2016, 07:20:51 PM
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #87 By jward: When you say the "actual Narrow Gauge models", are talking about the Bachmann or the PECO models?
google HOn3 and see what comes up
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #91 By jward: I typed that into Google, and it came up with Blackstone Models. Is this what you are talking about? I have never heard of it, myself.
ok guys,I am talking about Bachmann prices,not all that other narrow stuff.i know what that is worth.I used to own it.
UPTODAY
ps;the point i was making is the more profit you make on an item,the more money you have for warranty problems.
End of story.
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #93 By UPTODAY: Oh, sorry about that Steve. I must have got confused, but it is a fair point, that the more you spend on a product, the better warranty is worth and better customer service Bachmann will give you if something goes wrong on your Locomotive!
Quote from: Jacob Wilson on February 02, 2016, 07:55:23 PM
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #91 By jward: I typed that into Google, and it came up with Blackstone Models. Is this what you are talking about? I have never heard of it, myself.
blackstone is one of them. most of the others are either brass, or resin kits that take days to build, yet are more expensive than ready to run. the cost of track, particularly dual guage switches, is a lot more. that is, unless you want to build it yourself.
this is why I was dismayed by the comments regarding the very low prices for Bachmann trains. they are very reasonable for what you are getting.
I don't think the price for Skarloey is unreasonable personally. The quality of the model as well as the detail had exceeded my expectations. The same could be said for other locomotives to join the range.
The only complaints regarding pricing that I can understand completely is the rolling stock. Peco rolling stock doesn't cost that much and you can buy three for the price of one Bachmann car on Hattons and the stock that has been made so far are Peco repaints. The only reason why they could be more expensive is it could have something to do with the partnership Bachmann has with Peco as well as the Thomas license in the product giving the stock a double or possibly triple standard when it comes to pricing.
Also the Skarloey products are HOn30, not HOn3. There is a difference between both of them as they are different scales and run on different tracks.
Does anyone know if I can return my henry if he is missing a face? :P
^^ Above 2 Replies - @Reply #96 By Chaz: that must be the reason for Bachmann's high RRP tag of the Narrow Gauge Rolling Stock did to the partnership / licensing so Bachmann can use PECO's tooling and then partly do with the Thomas & Friends licensing with HiT Entertainment and then partly so Bachmann can make a profit with each one.
I do hope though, as time passes and the Narrow Gauge range expands and becomes more popular, that Bachmann will be able to bring the RRP down of these Wagon's.
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #97 By Racing James!: I do not see why not, when last night I learnt that Bachmann's models have a lifetime warranty.
Racing James, here is a link to the face mask for henry
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_68_93_96&products_id=203
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #99 By Rickenbacker 325: I admire Bachmann a lot for their spare parts range. You can get almost, if not, everything! I wish Hornby was this good. I needed a new dome for my Hornby Emily which broke off when I first bought her 10 year's ago, later this year! I have contacted Hornby loads of times before her discontinuation back in 2012, and Hornby where never able to get one. What I have had no choice to do, was to make a make-do-and-mend attitude and glue her half broke dome back on. Hornby, you can learn something from Bachmann's Spare Parts range. You certainly have a lot of catching up to do!
Quote from: Jacob Wilson on February 01, 2016, 05:20:23 PM
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #75 By TBModels: I suggest you get into contact with the Model Railway Doctor at http://www.modelrailwaydoctor.co.uk/. My Dad has sent loads of different Locomotives off to him for all sorts of motor problems and he never declined any of them, and he made them all run as if they where brand new, after their operation's!
Thank you! I'll make sure to look into this. ;)
^ Above 1 Reply - @Reply #101 By TBModels: That is alright. I recommend you send off your Flying Scotsman to the Model Railway Doctor. He does not damage Locomotives and he repairs them and the end result of them running is as of the Locomotive is brand new.
Quote from: TBModels on January 31, 2016, 08:37:18 AM
Hey guys, I didn't want to start a new thread to ask this question, so I found this one to repost.
Anyway... I recently bought a Hornby Flying Scotsman on eBay. There is a problem with the engine / tender in that the engine will work on curves, but it will not work on straight pieces of track. Once it gets to a straight section, the engine stops.
Has anyone had the same problem / know how to fix it?
Probably the wheel contact wipers need to be tweaked, so that they touch the wheels at all times. They are usually strips of copper (hopefully phosphor-bronze, which is "springier" than just copper) located between the wheels and the chassis frame. As these contacts get older, they lose touch with the wheels. Usually, tweaking will require removal of the lower frame cover plate so that you can remove the drivers in order to get the clearance needed to bend the contacts out towards the wheels. They must make contact with the wheels at all times through the limits of the axles lateral play. I've seen several Hornby locos with similar problems.
Also, watch out for metal pinion gears that start slipping on the motor shaft, eventually leading the loco to slip and stall while the motor spins free. This can be fixed by thoroughly cleaning all oil & grease from the gear and motor shaft, and then carefully applying a bit of ACC-gel to the hole in the gear using a toothpick, and then quickly pressing the gear onto the shaft so that it aligns properly with the spur gear. You possibly could also use a tiny drop of locktite instead of the ACC gel, which might allow more time to work, but in either case, be sure none of the adhesive can migrate to between the motor shaft and bearing, or your loco will will be suitable for static display only!
Bill in FtL