As always maintaining polarity is a requirement.  So be aware of the +/- in any power distribution set up.

This web site has a lot of good DCC info.
 
http://dccconcepts.com/index_files/DCCwiringpower.htm

The Bachmann #6 switches may have powered frogs so an engine will stop if it enters a closed switch.   So depending which way they are thrown one switch my not be getting the signal.  Do you use only one terminal track connection to feed both loops? I have read that depending solely on the rail joiners can be problematic.   If you can run a lead from the other side of the terminal track connection to the other loop ( use aligator clips to test it), you may find that this will ensure a uniform power distribution.

I have the single unit crossover tracks and they work fine.  I do plan to use back to back #6 in an expansion and I will be on the lookout for your situation.

I haven't made any assumptions yet.  I asked if anyone has experience with this claim.  Like most others I put caution ahead of experimentation.  Yes it is a good link,  lots of good info about DCC. 

Everything I have read on this website supports many other websites I have researched.  Why would this not be true?

http://dccconcepts.com/index_files/DCCwiringpower.htm

Extract of website:

As a modeller I like to pass on good tips, and here is one that can save you some money on a mid powered DCC system power supply.

LAPTOP COMPUTERS regularly die, but the power supply that plugs into them is almost always still fit and healthy. Look for them at work, at friends, anywhere... they are usually free once the computer dies!

They DO vary. 15 to 18 volts, always DC, from 3 to 5 amps. MOST will be perfect, but look for 15 volts as the best choice for your DCC system. Just cut off the DC input plug at the end of the lead and hey presto –a high quality, really well regulated and presto power supply... NO CHARGE!

Just read that an economical way to boost the power to your DCC system is to use something many people may already have...

The ac/dc converter from an old laptop.  I have 2!!  The web site said that the output of 18 volts and 4.5 amps was ideal to power an expanding DCC layout.   Does anyone have experience with this? The site is very reliable.   

Any one know where the 10 ft (red wire) extension is used?  It says Terminal. 

Thanks for the feedback.  Bachmann quickly replaced some switches I thought were a problem. 

DCC turnouts do not have DC capability.   They can be switched manually.  I have moved them to another location easily and they retain the address. 

Hi Will,
Yes, the surge protector is the power switch with me as well.  Surge protection here on the west coast of Florida, "lightning capital of the world" is required for anything of value.

I have never observed the fault to occur with anyone one locomotive.  Pressing the stop button does not restore the turnout.  I have to power down and up.  I can select anyone of the six and it will work fine. but when I move to select another switch,  there is no response.

I have 6 Bachmann DCC locos (high and low end) and all work very well.   

Rich

To clarify,  the turnouts did retain their identity.  Something is going on that either makes them invisible sometimes or is interfering with the signal and switching from one to the other creates a conflict.

I will have to pull each turnout and test them independently.

One odd thing, is that the Dynamis control base has no on/off switch.  I have it plugged into a surge protection unit.

Thanks to all who responded.  The Bachmann DCC turnouts programmed perfectly with the Dynamis and during that operating session I moved from one to another ( there are six turnouts in all ) and it was DCC heaven.  I have had very good luck with Bachmann items.  I am running a basic Dynamis unit, the base and one handheld.  All new.   

However,  when I returned the following day the first turnout responded quickly, then  I moved to the next and it did not respond so I moved back to the first turnout and it now did not respond.   I powered down and returned later, I went directly to the second turnout and it responded, but others did not.  So it seemed that the first turnout addressed responded but subsequent turnouts did not.  It became pretty much a random problem but persistent.

All the literature says you should be easily able to run 6 turnout accessories, and for the first session it did.  I wonder if I changed a setting on the handheld?

I appreciate anyones suggestions for a remedy.   Moving freight through the yard flipping switches from the handheld while the switcher is creeping down the yard ladder makes for interesting times.  Thanks all.

What are the possible reasons that turnouts do not respond to the Dynamis controller after they have been programmed.

After some testing of the turnouts, and flipping the terminal track connector plug with no immediate response, suddenly one switch repeatedly responded, then all of them did for the remainder of that operating session.  Powered everything off and came back next day to no response again for a couple of minutes, then all the switches came alive again and worked perfectly again.  So it seems that there is an initial delay before the turnouts get the signal.  I wonder if my track layout (switching yard) has anything to do with it.  The six turnouts lead to 8 end of track sidings.  I have read up on DCC, an address is an address so this should not matter as long as the tracks are powered.  I wonder if the terminal plug track ( at the back of one of the sidings) is too remote?  Would an additional terminal plug in another location make the signal more uniform across the layout?  The locos all respond quickly anywhere on the layout so I know the power is getting to all track sections.  Thanks for taking the time to read this.  RD

More info:  After I power up I can access any one of the switches repeatedly but once I move to another switch,  there is no response.  Thanks.  RD

I have 6 DCC Bachmann switches that programmed easily with my Dynamis handheld and worked well.  Next time I powered up the switches did not respond.  I powered off and then on again and one switch worked, I advanced to the next switch and it did nothing... so I went back to the first switch and now it does not respond.  Any ideas?
RD