Hello ta152h0- I don't know what connectors you are looking for, However, here is a site that you might check-

http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=4

Barney

Hello Again jonjdurkin - Well that is two of us who  have Rivarossi's that will negotiate 18" layout.  Your unit is either binding because of lack of swivelling motion or shorting out. Please let us know what you find.

Ralph-
I just a DCC decoder in a vintage Rivarossi Heavy Pacific. I didnot change the motor. The old motor works fine. You must isolate the motor, but it is very usable in the DCC world. I installed the decoder in the Tender. If you are interested in how I did it and what I used, e-mail me off line and I will share.


Barney

Hello jonjdurkin - I have a Riv CF and my layout is 18". The cab forward can negotiate the the layout just fine. I check mine and both sets of drivers swivel. I hope this helps.

Barney

Thanks Yampa Bob-
You answered my question-
Hunt-
What is this about- "Informative pictures Rich for those understanding what they are seeing."
I just installed a DCC decoder in an old Rivarossi Heavy Pacific and it runs very well. The motor is exposed at the back of the cab, however I was still concerned about heat.
My layout is wired with both DC and DCC with a toggle switch between so I can change to either. However, once I started using DCC, that is where the switch stayed. That is why I decided to try converting an older loco and why my interest in the topic of " DC motors with DCC.
Thanks Yampa Bob and RichG

Barney

Thanks  RichG-
Now let me feed back what you have said so far, If I understand.
1- All motors are DC.
2- DCC sends a constant pulse to the motor, even at rest which causes an increase in heat-
If both above statements are correct- then the heat issue is with DCC technology, weither the loco is DC or DCC.
However, this still does not identify the acceptable operating temp. expected for a DC motor, either at rest or half throttle, etc. You originally discussed the temp. reading that you identified. I am still interested in what is considered acceptable, without damage occuring to the motor.

Thanks,
Barney

Thanks Jim for your thoughts and experience. Your statement supports my question as to what is the normal operating environment. The subject is DC motor with DCC. I am sure that RichG was looking for the safety aspects of running DC on DCC and that leads me to wonder what the norm and expected temps would be. 96 degrees will not sear my finger, nor will 105. Maybe Mr. Bach Man could ask the tech staff for the specs that they have or request from the production factory. Just a thought/question-

Barney

Hi RichG- How do these measurments compare to dcc motors running on dcc and dc motors running on dc?
I don't know what the norm is for normal operations. Is an operation temp of 105 bad?
Barney

MRC Prodigy advanced. Yes- I will go through the tech reference and change the sound option if possible. Thank  you so much.
Barney

Well- Success- Thanks to you Rich and WoundedBear-as well as others- I loosened the screws. Both the one attaching the truck to the plastic brace and the one connecting them to the frame and the locomotive travels the entire layout. Now the question is "how important is the missing piece". Rogertra suggested that I remove the spring to start with. I now have two remaining questions. The headlight is very dim and is green in appearance. It is not white. It does respond to f0 but it is not at all bright. Second is the Whistle. the f2 whistle is very low. It is one quarter the volume of the f4 steam blowoff. Rich- does this track with yours?
Barney

Thank You RichG and WoundedBear-
I took the front truck off and there is no spring. It is just the plastic bar. I have taken pictures and when I figure out how to add them I will. 
So, I will try WoundedBear's suggestion to loosen the screw. Any further Idea's will be gladly  accepted. Thanks Gentlemen. Barney

I currently do not own an NMRA gauge, so I am unable to follow this suggestion just yet. I will go to a train store in the next few days a purchase one. Meanwhile, does anyone else have any other suggestions   Barney

Well- I followed both suggestions. The wheels are free and the screws that are holding the truck are free.
There is no spring to remove. The truck is connected with a flat piece of metal and two screws. I checked the drawing and that is correct. As I said, this is brand new. Does anyone else have any further suggestions? Thanks. Barney 

Thank you Rogertra- I will try removing the spring. WOW - I visited your web site. Very very nice. Barney

Yes- I read yours and was very impressed. I am having difficulty keeping the front truck on the tracks. I cannot travel more than 6 feet before the front wheels are off. I have code 100 and I have 11 other loco's that negoiate the track fine. You are right- this is a great little Loco, I just need some direction as to how I can solve this problem.

I just bought a 4-6-0 52" with sound. Has anyone had experience with this Locomotive?