No, it's toast! Even if I do what 3rail says flipping wires at the motor I still have to cycle the unit twice to get it to go, and with the wires flipped it goes forward instead of backwards. I either live with it or get a new E-unit. I have enough other stuff to do and this isn't that critical, was mostly looking for intell. Thanks all.

It goes through the cycles fine, just won't go in the forward position but the lights light. I haven't messed with any of the wiring and inspection of wires, everything checks fine.  It worked fine last winter when I last had it out.

This is a dual motored unit, it will only run in reverse and will not run forward. Doing the sequence it goes thru the motions but won't power but the lights lite so I know there power there. Hope I don't need a new E-unit. Any ideas? Thanks

I'll keep that in mind, thanks.

Hey Philly- Thanks for all the input on this, I think I got this nipped in the butt now. What I did was swap out the motors and so far so good after 2 hours, it's runnin alot cooler like it should. I made a call to the Tech Dept. to pick their brain and get a second opinion and they gave me the same 20 questions you have and they came to the conclusion that it's probabally a bad motor. I concur!
I hooked up the motor in question to a transformer and threw the throttle to see what's up. After like 15 seconds the motor stopped by itself. After giving the flywheel a push to get it going again, the motor didn't really want to run and got hot quick. So I guess with the forward motion of the loco kinda kept the motor runnin but again the problem at hand. Thanks again.
FWIW- Tech did say that with the newer transformers that the sine wave causes problems for them but I'm using a old "Z".
Now, I can't wait till WBB comes out with the new sound board!!!! Hurry up, cause I want 10 of them!

Yes, yes, and yes!

I am using the E-board that came with the upgrade kit, not the old Lionel unit.

I kitbashed a old Lionel Geep and used the dummy upgrade kit to power the old lionel around the track.  I could only use one motor as Lionel had the old post war loco's set up that way.
I tapped the power wire into the wire for the Lionel pickup. It ran great and smooth for 2 1/2 hours and then started to slow down almost to the point of not running at all. I had no grinding, squaking, etc. type noise that said I need a lube job or anything! OK, time for a loco swap, when I went to pick up the Geep the body was warm and the motor truck was even warmer on the bottom then the body. Like I said, this is only a 1 motor unit and ran super. I have never had this happen with 3 F-3 that I've done as well as the 8 other WBB loco's that I have.  I plan to swap out with the extra motor & truck to see what happens there. All my wires and connections are good and strong.  Does anybody have any ideas on what might be happening here, and what maybe am I overlooking? Thanks

I'm not tring to hijack anything! And I'm not going to bother wasting my time on this subject with you! Read what I've said and the orginal post!

Quote from: Joe Satnik on May 17, 2011, 09:07:39 PM
Dear All,

We are arguing apples and oranges here. 

Stubbs hasn't mentioned that his setup uses a Lionel TMCC system. 


My work has been to reduce the start up speed of the conventional controlled single DC motor Williams steam engines

while still being able to use the old conventional Lionel AC transformers with high starting voltages.

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Joe- Sorry to have to rain on your parade but, Why would I post something that doesn't apply when people are talking about using TMCC if I werern't doing the same? You need to think outside the box sometimes! Your always posting on these subjects, you should know better. Why else would I post that I have the power set at 50-60% if I wasn't using some kind of remote control? Seems like it be kinda hard to change locos otherwise if I continually kept the power there all the time would'nt you think? Just amuse me and take a untinkered with, out of the box loco, single or 2 motor and if your using a ZW, put the throttle at the 12 O'clock position or less, and use your cab1 or whatever and tell me your results and what you think. I have even done this with a KW, albeit that there less volts to begin with you'll get the same results. A LW probabaly wouldn't even need any throttle down for the same results. I think you'll see that you don't need to waste time and money on diodes and soldering to get the results you want with this simple easy method. JMHO
I did post this on page 2 but the discussion died with no bodies follow up, so maybe they did what I said and never followed up.back in Jan http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,15710.15.html

Quote from: Joe Satnik on May 16, 2011, 01:37:32 PM
Stubbs,

You didn't give much detail in your May 12 single sentence. 

Did I guess correctly that you have an old Lionel "Z" (not an old Lionel ZW or a competitor's) transformer?

You said,  "I use a "Z" at 60%", which sounds like a throttle setting. 

Care to elaborate?

Joe Satnik

Yes, You read correctly. Turn it down to about half and with a cab1, it works just like wiring in series.

Quote from: Joe Satnik on May 12, 2011, 01:29:10 PM
Dear stubbsO,

The diodes or diode bridges (with + shorted to -) added in series with the DC can motors are used to reduce

the high starting voltages of the old conventional transformers. 

The Lionel "Z" transformer has a starting voltage of 6 volts.

The "ZW" has a starting voltage of 8 volts.

Big difference.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik   

That means absolutly nothing. Have you tried what I'm talking about? I doubt not by your reply!

Why do all that work when you can just turn down the power at the transformer? I use a "Z" at 60% and it runs like it's series wired.

Good Discussion here! I have about a dozen Williams loco's of which about half have been wired in series. Kinda hard to remember which is which when changing loco's. What I have done is just turn down the juice and the transformer and I get the same control as a series wired unit. I'm using a Z and TMCC. With the trans turned down to 50-70% works great, most of them have been upgraded with LED's so lighting isn't a problem. Give it a shot! It works for me and I'll eventually convert them back to parallel wiring.

I agree, it would be nice if they expanded the Williams section like they have for all their other products. I hate having to call C.S. to get info that could be quickly found with a click of the mouse.