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Messages - RGS Goose

#16
On30 / Re: ON30 K-27 & C-19
November 05, 2012, 04:20:34 AM
I would have to have at least two K-27's, and one, maybe two, C-19's,as long as they will go around the same radius curves as the 2-8-0.
RGS Goose
#17
On30 / Re: 2-4-4-2 Arrived here today
September 10, 2012, 12:20:59 AM
Hi again Steve,
Please ignore my last post. I have had a better look at the details of this loco on the Bachmann site, and found it does say that it has a dual mode decoder.
I think I will have to stop drinking whatever it was, if it does that to me, but ratherI think it might have been too many hours at the building bench before I looked for the info. rather than what I was drinking, as I can't drink anything stronger than coffee and soft drink. Maybe some more coffee will help. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks anyway.
Regards,
RGS Goose.
#18
On30 / Re: 2-4-4-2 Arrived here today
September 08, 2012, 10:08:54 PM
Hi Steve,
I haven't had my hands on a 2-4-4-2 yet.
The Bachmann site says the loco is DCC equipped. There is no mention of dual mode like many of their other locos. Can you tell me if the add-on sound module, and the fitted DCC decoder, are dual mode (DC/DCC).
Thanks in anticipation.
Regards,
RGS Goose.
#19
On30 / Re: Bachmann Figures
August 26, 2012, 06:23:34 AM
Hi John in Aust.
I just bought 1 litre of 99.7% IPA from RS Components in Sydney and it cost $24 odd delivered to Central Victoria.
It wouldn't mix with the Indian Ink I had, which was what I bought it for, but it good for cleaning electrical gear anyway, and may do what you want with the paint you are trying to strip.
It is a British product initially, and is labelled "Electrolube!!!", which is what Peco sell to clean track, wheels, etc.
RGS Goose.

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=Iso+Propyl+Alcohol+&sra=oss
#20
On30 / Re: 2-4-4-2 Arrived here today
August 24, 2012, 08:51:36 PM
Hi Steve,
Are you able to work out yet whether the decoder will allow you to change the light settings to only have the light in the direction of travel lit, changing as the direction changes, or does it have to stay as you have described, with the trailing light dimming?
Regards,
RGS Goose.
#21
On30 / Re: WHR #87 while still in South Africa
July 05, 2012, 11:04:00 PM
While I would like to see any narrow gauge Garratt done, I think the Tasmanian K-1 Garratt, which is also at WHR, would fit in better with the size of the Shay, the Climax, the 2-6-6-2 and the forthcoming Heisler, as it is a very small loco.
RGS Goose.
#22
Hi Michael,
If you go back to page 31 on this forum (January 25 2010) you will find this subject was pretty well covered.
I printed these 2 pages out at the time as I thought I would need to remove some decalling. I ended up not needing to go down that road, so I can't comment on these ideas, but there are ideas there that the forum members that posted have obviously used with success.
I hope you can find that posting and that the information is what you are looking for.
Regards,
RGS Goose.
#23
Hi Everyone,
I know it's a long shot that Bachmann would do the G42 Garratt, but if everyone asks them for one, you just never know. I know I am an incurable optimist, but I would hock my soul for the G42, and for the Tasmanian K1 Garratt. Come on all you modellers that would buy either, or both, of these locos, let's hear from you. Let the Bach-man know.
RGS Goose.
#24
On30 / Re: Climax Problems
April 14, 2012, 02:13:42 AM
Hi dmolavi,
I used 1/8 O.D. K&S aluminium tube to make the sleeve for my Climax. I cut a piece about 1/16 long from the tube and then used a rat tail file to slightly taper the inside of the sleeve. I then pushed it onto the split drive shaft end, bigger opening in the tube first of course, with a TINY amount of super glue on the inside of the sleeve.
To get the drive shaft out of the model I took the cover off the cross gear box which allowed me to slide the shaft off the front of the truck without removing, or dismantling the truck, in any way. The split end on the shaft allows it to slide off easily.
Make sure you press the sleeve on square, as it is a tight fit. When the super glue is dry, push the cardan shaft back onto the truck carefully, as it will be a tight fit, and a hard push. You will need to put something at the inner end of the shaft in the truck, to allow you to slide the end of the cardan shaft right back on, and this can be done by bracing some packing between the face of the bevel gear and the axle. Make sure the packing you use will not damage the bevel gear teeth. Some medium to soft wood will do the job.
Then just reassemble the cross box with the shaft in place.
I did mine a long time ago, and only run it occassionally, as the layout is far from finished, but it runs perfectly every time I try it, and with this fix, at least this coupling is not likely to fail again.
Good luck. Let's know how you go with it.

RGS Goose.
#25
On30 / Re: HEISLER ?? ANY INFO??
April 03, 2012, 06:14:58 PM
 DEAR MR. BACH-MAN,
While the Heislers are apparently back at the factory to sort out whatever the problem is with them, would it be possible for Bachmann to arrange to supply some of these locos with the DCC Sound decoder already fitted, as you have with many of the other locos.
Splitting the cost of the loco and decoder won't make it look any cheaper to those of us that want sound, and I believe it could be slightly cheaper to have the decoders factory fitted, as it would save extra packaging, etc for the decoders.
It would also save those of us in far flung places a second lot of shipping costs to get the decoder seperately.
I would like to hear your thoughts on this please.
Regards to all,
RGS Goose.
#26
On30 / Re: Class A 15 ton Vertical Boiler Climax.
March 27, 2012, 04:00:06 AM
Hi again everyone,
I think there would be very little extra work to be done to make a T Boiler version as well, if you were tooling up to do a vertical boiler model, so let's all ask Lee to do one of each for us. I think we would nearly all want one of each, so the extra bit of tooling work could be well and truly offset by the bigger number of locos sold.
The idea of a whole new loco is a good one, but I would rather have one, or both of these, locos produced with what is already available, to keep production costs down, than not have them at all, due to higher production costs to start from scratch.
Keep talking to Lee as we did with the Heisler, he just might listen again.
RGS Goose.
#27
On30 / Class A 15 ton Vertical Boiler Climax.
March 26, 2012, 06:58:40 PM
Hi everyone,
I would love to see Bachmann do an On30, Class A, 15 ton (approx), Vertical Boiler. 2 Truck, Climax, with onboard DCC and sound.
I believe it would be possible to modify and use the 2 cylinder engine off the present Shay, and the trucks off the present Climax, as a basis for such a model, which would ease the production costs.
How do all you loggers out there feel about this idea?  If you are interested in this let Lee know. Like the Heisler, if we ask nicely (continually) he might look kindly on us.
RGS Goose.
#28
On30 / Re: On30 Gas Mechanical sound decoder installation
February 17, 2012, 04:59:19 PM
Hi Mabloodhound,
Your comment about using an exciter aroused my interest.
I haven't got to getting a sound fitted Porter yet, but it will come. In the meantime can you tell me if it is possible to get an exciter, and, if so, where, and then where does one look for the info. needed to install it?
I think it would be a good option for my 2 Gas Mechanicals also, if it is possible.
RGS Goose.
#29
On30 / Re: 2012 On30 wish list
January 24, 2012, 10:29:01 PM
Hi Everyone,
Even though I model the Colorado Railroads, I would love to see Bachmann do the Tasmanian Garrat, K-1 that has been fully restored, and is running on the Welsh Highlands Railway.
It is a nice neat little loco, and would be similar in size to a lot of what Bachmann has donealready.
It is also NOT a gear driven loco so that should eliminate THAT problem!!
I believe it was the first Garratt, so would probably arouse a lot of interest.
RGS Goose.
#30
On30 / Re: Climax Problems
January 20, 2012, 12:11:01 AM
Hi brownbr,
I can assure you your idea of using a piece of tube over the split gear, or universal coupling, will work very well.
I have had problems with components splitting on a number of models, and as I am in Australia, it is not easy to get replacements. I have used K&S aluminium tube to put a small sleeve over the hub of the split part, as the aluminium has a little bit of give (strechability) as you force the ring on. Fortunately K&S do a tube that is the ideal size for this job. Be sure to force the ring on square, and use a tiny bit of good quality super glue in the split, and on the hub as you put the ring on.
I also use a TINY amount of super glue on the shaft as I put the split part back on. This lot of super glue is best put in the hole in the part, not on the shaft. This allows the excess glue to be pushed out the end, rather than along the shaft and into the bearing, where it will cause you more headaches.
This not a particularly difficult job, so hopefully you can solve your problems this way.
RGS Goose.