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Discussion Boards => General Discussion => Topic started by: tvbaker on April 04, 2016, 05:24:41 PM

Title: To work with 44912
Post by: tvbaker on April 04, 2016, 05:24:41 PM
To work with 44912 reversing control you have a straight insulated gap with terminal.  Why do you not have a curve?

What is an easy way to remove the connecting pins to insulate a track?
Title: Re: To work with 44912
Post by: jbrock27 on April 04, 2016, 08:34:41 PM
Quote from: tvbaker on April 04, 2016, 05:24:41 PM
...remove the connecting pins...

Are you asking about removing the metal rail joiners?
Title: Re: To work with 44912
Post by: tvbaker on April 05, 2016, 05:01:27 PM
Yes
Title: Re: To work with 44912
Post by: tvbaker on April 05, 2016, 06:45:19 PM
How can you insulate a curve track without removing the interconnecting pins?

I have done this and I get a short when the locomotive passes over it.  The light on the controller goes out.
Title: Re: To work with 44912
Post by: jbrock27 on April 05, 2016, 07:09:49 PM
You can.  The only other way I can think of is to cut a gap in the rail somewhere down the line, using a Dremel cutting disc or track razor saw.  Some folks will then glue a piece of styrenne in the cut gap between the rails to insure it is isolated.

For how to remove rail joiners from EZ track, look here:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,31248.0.html

Lots of other posts out here on the subject as well.  And if you hunt around, you will find a video posted here by Narrowminded (Jeff).  Keep in mind, removing them from EZ track can be a hit or miss prospect to be able to do it and not do any damage to the rails.
Title: Re: To work with 44912
Post by: tvbaker on April 07, 2016, 01:48:05 PM
I have a small screw driver blade on my knife.  Using it I could open up the joiner and loosened it up on the track and remove it.  It was not damaged nor the track and could be reused.
Title: Re: To work with 44912
Post by: jbrock27 on April 07, 2016, 07:19:21 PM
I have done that as well; "flaring out" the edges of the joiner so I turn the joiner into a U shape.  But in addition to doing that, I also had to trim the plastic using an Xacto blade/knife at the ties, where it was molded along the joiner to keep the joiner in place.  I also used the blade to flare out the edges of the joiner.