Just got a new DCC 4-8-4 Niagara 6014. Have a DCC 4-8-4 Niagara 6020.
6020 runs circles around 6014. Both set w/same basic CV values 2 thru 6.
Both start on 1/126 throttle.
I know there are variations loco to loco but never this far apart.
Did I miss a setting somewhere?
RHF
Double check all your CV values
Run in the new loco for awhile. I do the following: run at slow speed for 10 minutes, then half speed for 10 minutes, then full speed for 10 minute. I then do the same with the engine in reverse. If the decoders support CV5 and CV6, on the faster loco, set the values lower. You have to do this by trial and error. CV2 is starting voltage,CV5 is top speed and CV6 is midrange speed. Joe
if it really bothers you, I'd consider a decoder reset, it is always my first action before doing maintenance as sometimes that fixes issues.
if, after break in, there is still a speed difference you can reset the top speed of the faster engine to match the slower one. I usually time the two locomotives around the same track, then calculate the speed difference and use those calculations to adjust the cvs on the faster engine.
I read a lot, here and other places on the net about locomotive "break in". Other than allowing for lubricant to work its way into the places it needs to be, gears, bearings, drive shafts, I really don't see what gets "broken in" when it comes to what is mostly moving plastic parts (gears). I have always questioned this. It is not like parts in an HO locomotive are moving against each other and taking material away from each other when they move, causing them to "break in". Unless, it is metal on metal with no lubrication, which would be foolish, or brushes on a commutator, then obviously in either case, the softer material (metal) is going to lose that battle. To me, instead of just running a loco in 2 directions for minutes or hours, I would check where and how much it is lubricated, adjust where and if necessary and if possible, put a dab of Conducta lube on the brushes.
Be advised, I am speaking to "plastic" HO models not brass or other metal ones and ones that are DC not DCC controlled, just so there is misunderstandings.
The 'break in' thing started with older Athearn, Bachmann, Roundhouse, etc., locos that often had flash on the gear castings. The idea behind the 'break in' running is it would wear off the flash, resulting in smoother running locos. I always found opening the loco up and cleaning the flash off the gears with an X-Acto knife, jewlers file, and crocus cloth worked a lot better.
These days gear flash isn't that prevelant, and any "break in" would be to spread lube around if needed. More often, I find locos over lubed from the factory, and have to clean them up.
Len
Thanks for agreeing with me Len and I agree w/you about the overlube issue.
I hear what you are saying about the talk about flash, at least with the Athearn models. My practice has been to take the whole loco apart (used ones) clean the plastic parts in soapy warm water, dry (obviously) and put back in place for relubing. That said, I never ran across any of this infamous "flash" in any of the gears that so much is written about.
I mostly found flash on the gears in 'Blue Box' Athearns from the late 50's, early 60's, and MDC/Roundhouse loco kits.
Len
My original late '70s one was as clean as a whistle as have been any subsequent, later model ones I have purchased.
Not saying that it needs it, but in my travels, a material \known as lapping compound does work if there is the "roughness" in meshing. I have used it in machine transmissions and it does work. It is a powder, and you will have to clean out the affected areas and reservoirs when finished, and then introduce new oil into the area.
SGT C..
Sarge, I am glad you brought that up, bc the other "laugher" (to me anyway) that I have read alot about is the whole Pearl Drops in the gears thing. Makes me laugh, bc we are talking about delrin plastic gears and trucks here, delrin is slippery and when the gears are lined up, how much grinding, friction or resistance is there that requires "breaking in" or "polishing" with Pearl Drops (or any other material used for that purpose for that matter) ? I would say there is next to none when it comes to delrin on delrin.
I think a reason for "breaking in" is to help seat the motor brushes.
Les
jbrock,
Laugh if you want, but the Pearl Drops tricked worked on a lot of older locos with gears that were not made of Delrin. And it washed of easily with warm water when you were done. The problem now is Pearl Drops is hard to find these days except on line.
Len
...help seat the motor brushes.
Yes Les, touched on that in my above post.
...Pearl Drops tricked worked on a lot of older locos with gears that were not made of Delrin.
Yes, Sarge. Thank you for underscoring my point. Still laughing :D
So Jim...
...When I was in the service, one of the first things I learned was to ask questions and not to disregard suggestions. The service was a great place to learn a trade or at least something relative, and also to grow.
Lapping compound contains a fine abrasive which WILL cut delrin. If needed, it might be a good way to go. Ideally, one might consider going to brass gears, which are available-in quantity is cheaper-and then one might really need lapping compound...
I have had no problems so far...so far...with delrin gearing. The only locomotive I have an issue with is a Bachmann 2-8-0; which was expanded by me, so Bachmann is a good quality product.
SGT C.
Yep Sarge, thanks but I really was not asking for any suggestions, just making a statement. But I thank you and appreciate your taking your time to respond what you thought was a question. BTW, I am sure among the things your learned in the military is the high level of incompetence that can exist. But that is subject for another time. One thing I will add is unlikely the military, in this hobby, it is ok to NOT fall lock step in with everyone else.
Anyway, please know, that I am not laughing at YOU, rather I am laughing at anyone who spends the time to put Pearl Drops in their delrin gearing hoping to get their loco to run better. I won't be doing it. I will also not be switching to brass gears bc I have no reason too, but thank you again for offering that suggestion