Thank you for your response.
I've got the instruction sheet that came with the decoder that lists the CV functions.
You've confirmed what I suspected- -a solid decoder with simple functions.
Any recommendations on decoders that support strobe or flashing functions; no matter the brand?
Thank you again for your input.

Hello All,
Does anyone know what the lighting functions of the Bachmann 44915 decoder are beyond on and off if any?
More specifically does this decoder support flashing or strobe function?
Thank you for your input.
Jim

Hello All,
I realize that the E-Z Companion can be MU'd to the E-Z Controller for two cab control.
My question is:
Is it possible to MU two E-Z Controllers; either through the mini-jack (for lack of a better term) or the I/O Cat IV cable?
Again, thank you for all your thoughts.
J.J.

Hello all,
I am now the proud owner of a DCC controlled 4-unit consist of EMD F7A, B, B, A with functioning directional headlights on the A units.
Next project,- -the rotary snowplow and power car.
Thank you all!!!

Hello Rich,
So...I got impatient.
I stripped one motor of the molded inductors and the capacitors, as you suggested, by de-soldering the connections. I then soldered the motor terminals from the decoder to the motor; gray to the former black & orange to the former red to keep it simple.
Then I got impatient and just twisted the pickup pairs to the decoder, along with the headlight, as per the decoder instructions, without reinstalling the motor into the frame and...
IT FRIGGIN' WORKS!!! (expletive modified for a G audience.)
Now all I have to do is solder and shrink wrap the connections, re-assemble and away we go!!!
I've already re-assigned this loco to it's new address.
Again, a huge thanks to you and the Bachmann community for making this possible.
Only three more locos to go and then the snow plow. The B-units will be much simpler because they don't have lights.
Gratefully yours,
J.J.

Hello Rich,
Just read your latest post...
I'm not sure if I'm ready for sound- -yet (see previous post)
But I'll keep it in mind.
Again, Thank you and the entire community!

Hello Rich,
I buy from Mouser. I'm looking at a 7x38 stranded, 30ga.
They sell in larger quantities (100') but if I get a white jacket I can color code with markers (Sharpies) to my specs.
I'm not sure about going through a 3rd party to post my pics but I'll definitely keep you, and the rest of the good folks in the loop (excuse the pun) about the conversion.
My next project is an analog Athearn rotary snow plow and tender (F7B) that I'll be converting to DCC with the same decoders. I'll let you know how that project goes.
Again, Thanks to you and all the contributors to my posts.

Hello Rich,
Thank you again, huge help!
One "last" question:
What gage wire should I use?
That way I can figure out what size shrink tube to use as well.
Again, thank you

AHH!!!
I see where the confusion stems from...
I should have specified that I'm running both an analog direct current locomotive and a digitally controlled alternating current locomotive; feeding a direct current motor through a printed circuit board that converts, single phase, alternating current to direct current, that facilitates independent cab control through an alternating current system utilizing the zero stretching capabilities found in the Bachmann E-Z Command® system.
An apology to all.

Hello Rich,
There are V-shaped pockets cast into the noses of the frames where the bulb assembly sits, which I suspect might provide some heat sink. There is a plastic cap- -for lack of a better term- -that holds the bulb assembly loosely in place. The bulb does not contact the shell. The bulb is heat shrink-ed (shrunk?) along with the wires and slides into this mounting.
My next project will be to fit LEDs front and rear, but that's another post.
I'll keep an eye on the bulb if running for prolonged periods of time.
Once the decoders are installed I'll be able to turn off the bulbs when idle.
Thank you for all your help.

Hello All,
Yes I agree that the analog motor is being fooled by the digital waveform known as zero stretching. And, if left on the track the analog motor will fry, as per the warning in the E-Z Command instruction book. It does give the caveat of possible damage occurring by running analog locos over long periods of time.
As I've stated in my previous post: "When the analog loco is not moving I remove it from the track to avoid overheating the DC motor. As stated in the E-Z Command instruction book"
Rookie123's original question was, and I'm paraphrasing, "is it possible to run both analog and digital locos on the same pike."
The simple answer is yes. I'm doing it right now as I type.
If Bachmann never intended for both analog and digital to run on the same pike then why do they highlight that feature in the E-Z Command instruction booklet? (E-Z Command Setup and Programming Instructions; Page 6, STANDARD DC LOCOMOTIVE OPERATION.)
Thank you all for your input to what has become a heated topic.
Respectfully.
J.J.

Hello Rich,
I must be an anomaly.
I have two consists of Bachmann F7As & F7Bs (four powered locos; 2 F7As & 2 F7Bs) that were pulled from a "Bachmann 'HO' scale E-Z track® Train Set" Item #00689- Royal Gorge. I have an original paperwork packet from the seller that broke up the sets.
The parts list for the locos is H112X-IS001.
These are 4 screw and post mounted bodies. When I opened all four of them up they are all wired the same. Eight wheel drive, with dog-bone connectors to the motor with no flywheels.
The OEM wiring is one red and one black wire from each set of trucks. These are paired in their respective colors, then soldered to the previously discussed molded inductors with a color banding code of, if I'm reading them correctly: silver, copper, purple and yellow on a turquoise body. The silver ends are toward the motor. Hence the reason I thought they were resistors. Those are soldered to each pole of the motor.
There are three capacitors; that are numbered 103 with a dark yellow body. One capacitor bridges the two poles of the motor where the molded inductors are soldered. The others are soldered from one molded inductor to the body of the motor.
The F7As have a single light that is powered from the non-motor side of the molded inductors; black pickup to black on the bulb and red pickup to orange on the bulb.
The motor is held in a cradle that attaches to the frame with two screws through the gas tank that has the Bachmann circular logo and the words "BACHMANN MADE IN CHINA" molded into the plastic.
I tried to upload a photo but I get an error message saying, "Upload folder full."
Hope this helps.

Jeff,
I respectfully disagree.
As I type this I am running a Bachmann GE 70 ton Diesel Loco DCC Equipped Locomotive (#60613) on address 4 while simultaneously running a Bachmann Analog F7A, on the same controller on the D/C channel 10. Each having independent cab control.
They have been chasing each other around the mainline with no damage, other than the possibility of a crash, for the past 5-minutes.
When the analog loco is not moving I remove it from the track to avoid overheating the DC motor. As stated in the E-Z Command instruction book.
I do not consist a DC and a DCC. Also I don't run the analog loco's on the Wye you helped me wire.
That's the beauty of the E-Z Command system.
If what I'm doing is technically impossible don't tell the bumble bee that it can't fly.
Respectfully.

Hello Rich,
These locos don't have P/C boards.
Just pickup wires from the trucks to the inducers. The F7A has a light that is hard wired to the same side of the inducers as the pickups.
The decoders are Bachmann two-function, 7-wire; w/o 8-pin plug (same as 44916 except for the plug), designed to be hard wired.
Should be a really simple conversion. Snip, snip, solder, solder, assign and run.
Thank you again for your advice.

Hello Rich,
If I'm understand you correctly:
Option 1: I remove the capacitors; of which there are three, leave the molded inductors and solder the motor terminals (orange & gray wires) from the decoder to the molded inductors?
Option 2: I can remove all the inductors and capacitors and just solder the motor terminals (orange & gray wires) directly to the motor?
Sorry for the confusion on my part I just want to make sure I'm understand you correctly.
Thanks again.