I have almost finalized the track plan for my new layout. here it is.
(http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww238/irbricksceo/Layout00.jpg)
Dear Daylight4449,
Nice point-to-point plan. Good job. Interesting switchbacks. Any influences?
I see at least one "Inglenook", but no "Timesaver", though.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=timesaver+allen&form=OSDSRC
What make, model and code track are you using? Any flex?
I'm guessing that you used the Atlas freeware program.
The only possible "gitcha" that I see is that the siding against the back wall is 3 feet from the edge.
2-1/2 feet would be an easier reach.
It helps though, that there are no tracks to lean over and knock over cars near that inside edge.
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
I also noticed the back was 3 feet away. Try moving the turn table to the back and narrowing that 3 foot shelf to 2 feet. My turntable, a Walthers 90 foot is on a 2' wide board with room for 2 tracks in front and 2 tracks behind the TT and a 3 stall roundhouse
On my hard to reach area, I cut an access hole in the benchwork. I can get at the far away tracks without disturbing the trains and scenery in front. Makes scenery a little tricky, but when you take your time, anything is solvable.
Regards,
Jonathan
i have finally switched to alas sectional code 100 track
The RH half of the top section can be reduced in width by up to a foot.
Eric UK
Second thoughts. If the top sidings are made parallel to main tracks, the whole of the trackage can be 'lifted' which would provide several extra inches to the length of the sidings at either bottom end. If the TT is then moved closer to the main tracks and the storage tracks off it are rearranged, the whole of top section can be narrowed to close on two feet.
Eric UK
Daylight 4449 - Nice plan with lots of tracks and switching. I think those tracks on the upper corners will be very hard to maintain (you really can't reach something that is more than 30" away - although there are ways around that). Additionally, I don't see much room for structures...was this intentional? I guess what I am asking is: "Can you delete some of the trackage and still keep the 'flavor' of the plan?"
Sharp eyes Joe as I didn't see the Inglenook until you pointed it out. Yes, a Timesaver or Switchman's Nightmare puzzle would add some pathos to the plan.
Daylight, what is the time period and theme (purpose) of the plan? I like the idea of keeping the turntable close to the layout's front edge as turntables can require maintenance. How about checking into some custom track pieces such as single/double slip turnouts, 3-way turnouts or wyes...these could add additional interest to your already interesting plan (the downside is that they will also add additional cost).
Nice job...I am envious of the space you have for a layout.
Ray
my suggestion is that you make the layout multi level. you seem to have several industrial areas served by parallel tracks, giving those tracks differences in elevation will set them apart visually, and give the impression that the areas are not part of the same scene.
the tracks in the lower right side towards the center might make a good river dock scene.
actually, thats where my port is!
If you rotate the turntable a tad clockwise and move it a bit to the right, you would have room for a 3 stall roundhouse.
I would leave the back table at 3' so that you have room for some buildings and scenery/back drop behind that. At the right side near the back wall, I would eliminate the middle siding and make the near one longer, to serve two industries. I wouldn't worry about the back siding - you can reach the remaining turnout if something derails there. And in the unlikely event that something goes wrong at the far end, there are always lazy tongs or a car puller (a stick with a KD on the end.) Also keep in mind that it may be hard to reach a car 30" away if the table top is at chest height but it is easy to reach 40" at hip height. So if your table is chest high, keep a small stool or a sturdy box handy.
Having just destroyed your Inglenook, I would suggest modifying the second track out from the left wall, reducing the four sidings at the end down to three to make a left hand Inglenook. That would still lack the limit on the length of the yard lead ("head shunt" if you prefer) running toward the back wall, but that would be easy to recreate by having a road cross the tracks at the critical point. The rule then becomes that you are not allowed to block the road while switching, and if you want, you could enforce it with a smash board signal.
I am not sure what is happening at the bottom of your diagram. If the layout in the end of a longer room? Or is there a wall across the bottom of your diagram? If a wall, I would be tempted, if possible, to swing the dock scene around the corner to give it more separation from the tracks near the right wall. Depending on where the door was located, that might require flipping your whole track plan but at this point that should be easy.
Bottom line, it looks like it is going to be a fun layout to operate.
Jim
my layout will be at 1' high.
1 foot? thats pretty low. Try 32" Thats where I have mine and I can reach every thing.
Daylight - Don't you mean 1 yard? Or 1 metre? One foot seems like a waste of floor space (you certainly can't store much under a 1' table). How will you repair the wiring/turnout motors - should the need arise (and it will)?
Don't worry about the specifics - as we can work them out when we all show up at your house for pizza and beer! All kidding aside, I strongly suggest that you fabricate a paper/cardboard 1:1 mock up of the layout plan. With the full-sized mock up you can move things around and try the suggestions put forth here...just a thought. You can get FREE, large pieces of cardboard from appliance stores or plumbing suppliers.
Good luck,
Ray
Daylight,
Do you ever think that you sometimes get too much advice?
Here's more to pile on:
Some prefer code 83 Atlas over code 100, as the code 83 is more prototypical looking.
If you're not committed to code 100 yet, you might want to do a side by side comparison.
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
Joe, I tell my clients that you can never get too much advice (especially so if it is free). It is your responsibility to sort through it all - determining: 1) which pieces of advice are useful to the situation, and 2) is the advice accurate? On the other side of the coin, one can become overwhelmed by the shear volume of advice and not make a decision at all [should this become debilitating, or severe, one needs the services of someone like myself].
Webster's Collegiate Dictionary defines 'advice' as: "recommendation regarding a decision or course of conduct." Daylight, we are only passing on our recommendations - based on our real life experiences...only you can ferret out what is meaningful (useful) and what isn't.
Ray
it isn't that great. juding by the disign you have, i figure that you are using a pretty small room . if you are an experinced rialroader, you should have one line with reverse loop on each end.
11,
Could you explain why you think Daylight should have a return loop on each end? I know that sometimes I like to let trains just run while I sit back and watch them, and I suspect you do too. I would probably build a layout with loops at the ends, and you obviously would too. But why should Daylight build his layout to please us? Looking at his design, it look like he wants a point to point layout with lots of switching possibilities and that is why he has designed his layout that way. If you like, I can give you lots of reasons why I think he should build his railway in a way that pleases him. They would include that he has to build it and he has to pay for it.
Jim
Daylight, your layout is fine, a little tweak here or there is all it needs. Try code 83 Atlas, I have a layout that's about the same size with it and it runs fine and looks great!