Jim;
If you are using your rails for either power or com, I repeat, use a bond to ground only if neither issues exist.  The bond to ground is primarily for voltage surges and lighting protection.  In terms of stranded copper, I have found that condition numerous times on outdoor connections in wet/damp locations.  Where the rail is so close to the ground in most applications, it would, I believe, be a prevalent condition.  However, the blackening can be caused by not only oxidation but also by electrolytic action (galvanic) as the copper, being the harder of the two, will tend to conduct the aluminum to it, and can cause a bit of plating, which can cause that black colour.  Again, I say use the anti-oxident on the whole; and, with periodic re-application, should largely prevent that from happening and permit trouble free operation.  Also, my experience with this stuff is that it really doesn't take much of a resistance to raise holy merry hell with conductivity, where something like communications might be employed, or even  at 18 volts pressure.

The Old Reprobate

Jim;
If you are bonding copper to aluminum, do use either "Penetrox" or  "Alenox", or a comparable anti oxidant.  This will prevent any deterioration by electrolysis; also by the elements.  Actually, when using two dsissimilar metals where that type of business can happen, you should keep the two metals segregated.  In the case of electrical work such as a service or any splice with CU/AL conductors, a split bug is used.  With the type of thing here, I suggest using stranded copper, stakon(@) type connectors, screwing it to the rail in the way you mentioned, and penetrox the whole affair.  If you are not using the rails for power, or communation,
a good idea would be to ground it with a driven ground rod (5/8" CU plated steel rod) available at supply houses.

The Old Reprobate

Bonding can be by any means that makes a permanent totally conductive path from one conductor to another; and example would be the jumper on a water meter to facilitate bonding the plumbing and using the water piping system in the ground as a grounding electrode.  In my trade, it is accomplished by a ground wire and a slew of paragraphs in art 250 NEC.  I might think that it would be possible with code 250 rail to run a wire between two rails, and secure it with a machine screw [and] nut.

The Old Reprobate

The paint looks suspiciously like Floquil "rust".  (is it?)

Jist kidding.  Youse guys did a great job!  Wanna do my Honda?  I'd like it in Pullman Green with Imitation gold trim...

The Old Reprobate

Hey grump;
Where's politics here?  Actually Bob has turned out to be a good acquaintence of mine.  Does that count for politics?  I didn't know.

The Old Reprobate

Hunt;
Thanks for the feedback.  Yep, there is definitely a rise in the price of metals.  In my field, copper is considered "coiled gold", and is heading pricewise for the semiprecious metal status.
I do not know when this will end or what is spurring it, as ther is no lack of copper, zinc, tin, et al in the earth.  Plastic rail may just be the way to go, as there are some pretty resilient compounds of late.  There is one compound that is very hard and machinable I would like to see employed in this setting.
RIch

Hunt;
With the advances in RC equipment in large-scale, I would be more apt to use either aluminum or stainless steel for outside track, as current pickup via rail isn't an issue.  Steel would rust and present problems I wouldn't want.  I'll be starting my backyard layout in a year or so.  What are your thoughts?

Rich

Before I discovered the store, I was paying $2 for only 8 screws from hobby shops.

Robert;
You surprise me!  I would have thought you to be more screwd than that.  Oh well; I got married once, too, so I shouldn't talk.

Rich

www.fastenal.com is a good site.  Your best bet is always a supply house dealing with fasteners.  That's where uncle Phillie shops...

The Old Reprobate

Sounds to me like we are dealing with a company that is new at something and is making mistakes; but will listen and as they say, hopefully learn from those mistakes.  Companies that are looking to achieve success with a product will almost always look to their customer for guidance.  It is, therefore, soet of a responsibility of the customer to provide that guidance; because without it, [they] will nevere know exactly what is on your mind. 
As I inferred before, maybe people should take a good look down the horse's throat before you buy it.  Avoid doing that only if it is a gift...
I haven't seen a triplex in action yet, but there will come a day.

The Old Reprobate

Would it be better if i just bypassed the whole pcb and soldered the wires directly to the motor, pickups and lights? If you need i can send you a picture of the pcb. Thanks

I have advocated this method for about a year or so.  Direct wiring eliminates the potential for problems due to this whole adapter block thing.
You can download any information to make you comfortable doing this from various mfgrs, such as Soundtraxx, NCE, etc.  Just pay attention to what you are doing, make good solder joints, and heat shrink your work-after you check your work!  Get a decent multimeter, available at most electrical or electronic supply houses, or Radio Shack.  I have a Simpson I have had for about thirty five years, and it is still trusty and able; but other good ones are available for decent price, commensurate with quality.

The Old Reprobate

The material is known as "Celotex" and was installed in 1X2 foot pieces on a grid of furring strips, and is a royal pain to install recessed lighting in, old work style.  It does make great looking sedimentary rock.  Why don't you go out and find some good specimens of what you are looking for and make moulds of [them]; this way, you have the ability and resource to make more.  THese castings can be placed in any position you like.  I had placed four exact castings on my layout in the same area once, and it fooled everyone-not mother nature, though.

The Old Reprobate

First rule here:  Always screw draft gear assembly to the body!  Do you want to go fishing in that three-foot curved tunnel with NO access for the second half?  Of course, you could always back a second loco in to "catch them" (hopefully) and put green markers on the first; but if you have pulled off a complete draft gear assembly and it is still hanging on the last car, then this whole treatise would then become moot point, now wouldn't it? 

In terms of the 58s:  They are compatible with the #5s, et al-as I mentioned in my last post here. 

The Kadee web site has a complete listing of couplers, and draft gear, as well as their respective applications.  The website is extremely informative as well as downloadable.

I have been using 58s on all of my new kits and locomotives as I complete them.  As a lot of my rolling stock is pre-2000, I will not convert them; nor probably will I run them much if at all.  The Athearn, MDC, and so on, would be much too much bother, as most of my stock is of the craftsman end, such as F&C, Sunshine, Tichy kit, Proto 2000 (kit), Red Caboose, Intermountain (kit), and as such, are more desireable for me to see tacked onto one of my loco's hinies.  These are the cars I am particularly hard-nosed about standards.  Otherwise, there is always kit-bashing...

The Old Reprobate

Hunt, Jim;
Thank you for the feedback.  The thought I had behind using AC was that the half-cycle that would be produced by using the LED would drop intensity; but I forgot about the effect the reverse cycle would have on everything.  I am using 470 Ohm resistors, and I think that  perhaps adding a second resistor-say in the 200 ohm or so range in series to the existing stuff, (only because I am too lazy to take the assemblage apart) which would give me about 700 or so, and going with the 470 Ohm on the yard lights, might achieve what I am trying to accomplish.
THanks again, guys.

Japasha;
Thanx for the info.  I had the road wrong (Mia culpa...) and the 2-10-10-2 sounds like the model Bill Schopp did.  He had sent in pictures of the prototype, and it was as odd-ball as the model.  Both did look pretty strange!

Schopp was an extremely talented person and his words as well as his work were an inspiration to me.  Every time I start working on the details of an engine, I think of him and the stuff he did.  From him, I learned that research is always paramount; whether you are modelling prototype, or just superdetailing a steamer and want to use a logical approach to what you are doing.