Robin, Hunt;
Thanks, guys for confirming that for me.  I think for the time being, that I am just going to use SPST switches for the machines, as it is just going to be me running the layout for the most part.

have a great evening
Rich

Hunt;
My understanding (from what I have been told) is that these machines function much like a matched impedance type motor; that is, will stay energized at the "end of movement" position and it will not hurt them.  Is this true?

Rich

Recently, I bought three Tsunami sound decoders and installed them in three articulateds; two Bachmann 2-6-6-2s, and a Mantua 2-6-6-2.  I will say thank God for tenders, and even then, they were tight going in.  This decoder is no midget!

Speaker went in the coal pile; a dozen holes drilled into the pile for sound output, and am covering the pile over with a piece of black pantyhose-not mine... and will sprinkle some coal over that.  Should look pretty good.  Now all I have to do is figure out the sound variations that are available to this decoder.

BTW; does anyone know the current a tortiose motor will draw?  I lost the specs I had.  Any feedback is appreciated.

Rich

 

Gene;
A company called "Molex" makes myriad connecing devices, of all sizes.  my guess is that the actual plug block itself-which is nylon-wouldn't have been put near soldering heat; but that the tiny connectors that would be crimp- terminated onto the ends of the conductors, are then just shoved into the connector from the wire side, and they (usually) would catch on a moulded "detent".  As far as the shrink-wrap, there wouldn't be any reason that I could think of that a mfgr would go through the trouble of doing an in-line splce that would especially have to have a shrink-wrap operation now inserted into the whole process.  To my way of thinking, there has to have been connecting pins-whether male or female-inserted onto the wires, and then "rammed" home.

A pretty fair example of what I am talking about is the M/F plug system that the auto manufacturers use on their harness terminations.

The only other thing-and this is contingent of my possibly misinterpreting what you described-would be if the wires were just "harnessed" together by some kind of shrink-wrap; and, upon the pressure of the pull, the wires just ruptured and came apart, in-line.  In short, the wires just broke upon the sudden tension of the fall, and the wrap just happened to be where it all happened.

Rich

Gene;
To solder in close proximity to that nylon plug wouldn't be the wisest thing I ever heard of.  I might think that they are somehow crimped.  My thought further would be that there is some sort of "molex"@ type termination on the end of that wire, and then pushed into its respective position in the plug.  Logic  tells me that the factory would tend to be more prudent than to just be casual about its workmanship as if a standard.  If it were me, I might be mightily concerned about things like reputation, suit from my customers, etc.  Take a good look at that plug-or better yet, another plug on another engine with a like connecting facility-not just similar.

Rich   

I think I should qualify what I said-after having read it.  #12THHN would be used for your power buss.  Phone wire could be used for controlling a pilot device- telling it what to do.  If you are running a typical DCC system, you are running it at about 16 volts, and that #12 stranded will be good for that.  Even DC; if you are using a block system at twelve VDC, you will still be better off.

I am using #18 to run my turnout machines (Tortoise); but the machines have two three-wire configurations that can be used for controlling block-related devices.

Rich

To Gene et al;
Why would they use a solid pilot?  Not that it surprised me, but I could never figure it out, as many Pennsy steamers as I had seen.

Rich

Doorbell wire will work OK for short distances; I wouldn't touch phone (#24) wire on a bet; not for power applications, anyway.

I speak from my experience as an electrician when I say that you are going to-far and away-be better off using a larger size wire, such as #12THHN-or at least a #14- and stranded at that.   Do yourself a favour, and do not pinch pennies on your electrical work; you will kick yourself in the dupa abundantly if you do, unless you have an extremely small layout; and by that, I mean a shelf on a bookcase!

As an addendum; if you are unfamiliar with how electricity works, I suggest you pick up a book on its basics and read it.  This stuff isn't rocket science, but it can cause untold grief to those who approach it with no more than a gleam in their eye...

Rich