A better way to go may be by using the mechanism upgrade available from Bowser. I'm sure it will give more pull than the stock Bachmann drive that came with this engine. Here's the link:

http://www.bowser-trains.com/hoemrrs/mechanisms/3_201/3_201.htm

Roger

Jake,

Bowser makes really nice locomotive kits. When properly and carefully assembled they run as smooth as any brass or plastic engine made and will out-pull anything of similar size. Like the catalog said.......they're heavy!

The DC-71 motor is strong, smooth and DCC compatable. Adding a flywheel is always a good idea. There's a company that makes motor/flywheel conversions for the Bowsers. I believe it's called Alliance.

There is not a shorting problem with KD couplers mounted in the KD boxes as they are plastic.

The reference to not painting is meant to not do it prior to getting the loco assembled and running smoothly. The process of getting the engine running smoothly can be a long and repetative process of assembly/disassembly to get things aligned and working right. If it's painted prior to making your adjustments you will scratch up your paint job.

I gather from your questions that you aren't very experienced with loco kits. The Bowser kits aren't really too difficult but for the first-time builder pose a lot of situations that you have not experienced before. They can be built by a newbie if you follow the directions carefully and don't rush the steps. Read the instructions several times prior to getting out your tools and during the assembly process. Become familiar with the parts and what each step entails prior to trying to assemble anything.

I've used instant glues of many different companies as well as 5 minute epoxy to attach parts to the boiler. Attaching brass to brass is always best with solder which makes the strongest connection.

If they offer the valve gear as a built-up option pay the extra money and buy it that way. Most beginners will have the hardest time getting the rivets set on the valve gear and this will cause a lot of operating problems and friction later.

Good luck!
Roger

Rod Stewart is an HO modeler and collector.

Bob Keshan (sp?) alias Captain Kangaroo was a modeler or railfan.

Spencer Christian is a railfan and I believe a modeler and narrated/hosted a series of train videos.

Roger

Quote from: FallsvalleyRR on August 10, 2007, 03:40:46 PM
Im going to beg pardon and ask a question for the Baltimore Folks on this thread. I keep thinking that Taylor Ave at Hartford Road might have been a loop at one time for a trolley line. Does anyone know anything about that route in that part of the city about the time of ww2?

I grew up in Baltimore in the 1950's and would often ride the streetcars, busses and trackless-trolleys. The line going up Harford Rd did end at a turning loop just north of Taylor Ave. There was a neat magazine stand there with MR, Craftsman, Trains and Railroad Magazine. The best part, though, was the short walk north of the loop to City-Wide Hobby Shop. It was a great little shop and had most anything you needed back then including brass.

I'm not 100% sure but I think this was the last steetcar line in Baltimore and ran until around 1963. It lost a lot of charm when the tracks went out and the GMC busses took over. I rode a lot of PCC cars through that loop!

There was another turning loop in Overlea on BelAir Rd and also a neat hobby shop across the street. Some kind of neat trend in Baltimore, I guess.

I'll be getting at least one Peter Witt in BTC just because!

Roger

Gene,

I have to admit to being a C&O steam fan and painting that K-3 in Daylight colors truly did make me cry. In all the years I've been painting I've had to plead guilty to committing some very terrible things like that and a GG-1 painted in GN colors and a NYC J-3 Hudson lettered as Pennsy and then there was the Pennsy K4 done as Southern Ry in green with all those beautiful stripes. 

I always try to give the customer what they ask for and forget my own preferences or tastes. I just live in fear that someone, someday will ask for an N&W J done as a Daylight........................that's where I have to draw the line!

Enjoy!
Roger

Quote from: SteamGene on August 13, 2007, 08:51:28 AM
You are obviously the quentisential rivet counter, Roger!
Gene

Hi, Gene.

No......not really.......but just because it has 4 wheels and 2 axles doesn't make it a Ma&Pa caboose any more than taking a PRR N-8 cabin and lettering it for SP makes it an SP caboose.

Athearn sold a ton of PA's & PB's painted for the B&O. As a custom painter I've painted many make-believe items like a gorgeous C&O K-3 in SP Daylight colors so it's whatever you like!

I have just been around long enough to know that someone (many someones) will buy it and think it's a correct model of the Ma&Pa bobbers.

Actually, the Ma&Pa had 4 bobbers and none of them was identical. They did, however, all have 4 wheels, 2 axles and windows!

Just having some fun........please don't get upset with my replies to the original post. Remember what Model Railroader magazine used to say and believe: Model Railroading Is Fun!

Roger

The one in the link is an exact replica of a Ma&Pa caboose except for:

body color
roof color
lettering color
lettering location
roof material
4 pane windows
end windows (depending on which bobber you're doing)
built in markers
steps
and tool box

With those small details being overlooked you can be happy with the car as-is!

Roger

I have used these before and they work fairly well. I have also converted their N scale table to HO use and it's identical in construction & materials. I needed a shorter table for my HO shortline. The ones I used were easy to assemble and install and worked better than most of the lower priced turntables I've seen.

The disadvantages to this one are the pit is not as sturdy as it should be and can flex up and down some. The bearings are very sensitive to any dirt, scenery pieces or ballast that may get in them. You have to line up the table by eye which can be hard if the stalls aren't in clear line of sight.

The advantages are cost, ease of installation and use, nice details and the simple wiring.

The motorizing drive kit was available through Walthers and Con Cor and shows up on ebay often.

Personally, I would spend the extra money and go for the new Walthers powered/assembled  turntables. They retail for $299 but I've bought several in the last few months on ebay for $199. They are the best on the market and work great. They are assembled, lightly weathered, accurate and have the ability to align and memorized each position. Well worth the extra cost for the reliability alone.

A turntable is a moving structure and if it doesn't work reliably each time it can become a source of annoyance real fast!

Hope this helps!
Roger

Everyone,

Thanks for the great answers to my rail question. I guess going to O will take some adjustment to my thinking. I've used code 55 with HOn3 and even HO std gauge with no problems.

Thanks again for the quick and informative answers!
Roger

I'm thinking of doing some On30 modeling using the Forney with outside frame. Will it run on code 55 or 70 rail?

Thanks,
Roger

Lanny,

Congratulations on a very nice conversion! You've made a really neat model out of the stock 2-8-0. Thanks for sharing your experience and photos with us from the beginning.

As to the air pumps being located on the pilot deck I talked to some old Western Maryland Ry engine crews and they told me the WM did the same thing with their H-8 class 2-8-0's for weight distribution and tracking. Apparently this reduced the weight on the drivers making it easier on the engine and track. They were aware of this as they were paid by the weight on drivers as well as time on the road and this was a big concern for them. They also said it had something to do with the extreme weight on one side of the boiler causing stress cracks.

I thnk it made the H-8 an even better looking machine!

Thanks again!
Roger

Quote from: pdlethbridge on June 19, 2007, 12:56:48 PM
Now would be the time to produce a USRA type Pacific like this

I hate to tell you but................THAT's not a USRA light Pacific in the photo!

Since Bachmann has done the Ma&Pa 4-4-0 & 4-6-0 I would like to see them do the Ma&Pa "heavy" 2-8-0's #41-42 as they ran in the 1940-50 period. Those are really nice, chunky looking Connies that would really fit in on a lot of smaller layouts too.


We could also use the Ma&Pa passenger/head end cars as no one makes a really nice open platform wood style car. The MDC/Athearn/Horizon cars aren't that great. Craftsman kits are the only way if you can find them.

My 2¢,
Roger

Hoople,

I don't know anything about a CD. I have installed several Tsunamis in my Bachmann 2-10-0's and 2-6-6-2 and have never had any problems with ole Fireman Fred. The Tsunamis don't come with any CD when you buy them as an after market item. I'm assuming that they come with a Bachmann that's factory equipped.

I went to the Soundtraxx website and downloaded all their Tsunami installation and operating guides. They have all the CV's you could ever imagine and some you can't in them. They're a LOT of pages but all the info you need to adjust FF is there.

Roger

The Chinese QJ and SY engines are a refreshing change from a steady diet of USRA types. Don't get me wrong.......I think the USRA engines were pretty nice looking and were an obvious success but as far as models goes I think we could use some relief from every manufacturer doing them. There are so many more likely candidates out there for reproduction so why always do the USRA's when they've been done to death? How about some smaller Mikes (SY-ish), Pacifics, 4-6-0's and more smaller 2-8-0's?

The Chinese SY CAN BE Americanized to look very nice with only a few easy changes. I'm sure the QJ could too. Both models are excellent runners and well worth the money.

PLEASE...........NO MORE USRA ENGINES!!!!!!!

My 2¢
Roger

Quote from: the Bach-man on May 27, 2007, 11:57:26 PM
Dear Ernie,
The Bachmann home offices are in Philadelphia, and the equipment is made in China.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

Bachmann...............I kinda think Ernie doesn't know how to have fun or could accept the value of fun if he did! This is the strangest post topic I've seen on any board!

Roger