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Messages - mickb

#1
Large / Re: C-19 video
December 04, 2012, 06:59:41 PM
Hi Glenn
this should be it
http://youtu.be/TPJXRgZJUvI
Mick
#2
There are two small screws behind the coupler pocket. If you remove the entire pilot/deck (four screws underneith) they very easy to get to.
Mick
#3
Large / Re: Large Scale 2-8-0 Outside Frame
June 02, 2012, 03:40:28 AM
You may find this link helpful http://www.the-ashpit.com/mik/gear.html complete with step by step instructions and pictures.
Also Bachmann now has a replacement brass gear already mounted on an axle http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_69_142&products_id=3843
whether this will put more strain on the other gears remains to be seen.

Mick
#4
Large / Re: part
March 13, 2012, 08:38:13 PM
#5
Large / Re: Log Skidder coupler problem
June 07, 2011, 03:08:23 AM
Hook and loop coupler mounted on flat car using coupler box as a spacer, a longer screw is required about 3/16" longer than the original.
"http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee471/mickbenton/coupler4.jpg"

Height is almost perfect
"http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee471/mickbenton/coupler3.jpg"
it looks as though it will go round R1 curves OK when coupled to Big Hauler wagons but I am not sure 2 of these set up this way will work together.
Mick
#6
Large / Re: Log Skidder coupler problem
June 06, 2011, 09:05:56 AM
Ok second thought (and No I have not set this up yet, but a quick dry run suggests it could come fairly close).
Remove the complete knuckle coupler. Then put a longer  mounting screw through the hook and loop coupler and then through the coupler box and screw both of them back on the car, the coupler box is just being used as a spacer to give the right height . It looks as this will give the right height it may need a small strip of plastic glued to the underside of the coupler box to keep the hook and loop straight.
Mick
#7
Large / Re: Log Skidder coupler problem
June 06, 2011, 01:53:20 AM
Hi NM

You are absolutely correct, I had not checked the height when I mounted one yesterday. It seemed the obvious way to do it.
We will have to wait for "the Bach-mann" to enlighten us.

Mick
#8
Large / Re: Log Skidder coupler problem
June 06, 2011, 12:12:44 AM
At least NarrowMinded can upload pictures!

OK in the first picture you can see the silver screw I referred to, remove it and take the knuckle part of the coupler off. The coupler box is still attached to the flat car and stays there, the hook and loop coupler can now be attached in place of the removed knuckle (use the longer black screw in with the couplers.

Mick
#9
Large / Re: Log Skidder coupler problem
June 05, 2011, 07:44:11 AM
Hi
assuming your flat car is the same as the previous 20' flat car the couplers can only be attached to the body not the to the trucks. Do not remove the coupler box. Under the knuckle coupler should be a silver colored screw, removing this screw allows the knuckle part of the coupler to be removed . The hook and loop coupler can now be attached using the black screw packed in with the couplers.

I tried to load a couple of photos to explain it more easily but just keep getting an error that the upload folder is full even though the photos are only 23K and 28K!
Mick
#10
Large / Re: Log Skidder coupler problem
June 02, 2011, 09:08:03 PM
Hi there should be a screw under the knuckle coupler which attaches the knuckle to the mounting arm. Undo it and remove the knuckle part of the coupler and the hook loop should screw on in place of the knuckle.
Mick
#11
Looking at an unused 20' box car the hook and loop coupler (comes with two hook and loops in the box) simply screws on in place of the original knuckle coupler (this is not the normal knuckle coupler it is two pieces screwed together). When yours has been converted to kadees the whole coupler has been replaced. Not sure how to fix the problem as the couplers do not appear in the online parts listing.
#12
Large / Re: K27 counterweights difference
August 04, 2008, 03:02:57 AM
Hi graham
my replacement counterweights are same as yours about .5mm more metal in the collar around the pin for the coupling rods than the old ones.
I have installed them anyway and there appears enough play in the various coupling rod joints to cope with the difference.
It may be that the replacements that arrived in Australia came from the second batch and that they are slightly different from the first batch.

Mick
#13
Large / Re: K27 counterweights for Australia
April 13, 2008, 05:47:55 AM
Given the lack of support, follow up or what ever it looks like I have bought my last bachmann item!
Other manufacturers can support their products in Australia so I will stick with them in the future.
Mick
#14
Large / Re: K27 counterweights for Australia
April 10, 2008, 12:59:58 AM
Hi Mr. Bach-man
was there any responce from Philadelphia? I tried the Australian agent who could give me no information what so ever and said that they had only just become aware of the problem!
thanks Mick
#15
Large / Re: K27 counterweights for Australia
April 02, 2008, 10:36:18 PM
thanks peter I will give them a go.
mickb