FYI, I had my first HO at age 5, though that is a bit younger than most would recommend.

Also, did you know that there is a Tomas line of HO trains? My boys started w/ battery powered Thomas w/ plastic track, but quickly graduated to HO. One still likes the Thomas version, and the other twin prefers DCC sound steam locomotives
(that, unlike Thomas, cost a lot).

PRR is famous; you will have no trouble adding to that set.

Keusink

My 9 year old boys are train nuts too.

They have Bachmann EZ track (which has the roadbed attached) that can be assembled and disassembled on the floor in minutes. No need to worry about falling long distances to the floor.

When you know the interest is permanent, more maturity and digital dexterity is present, and the finances are easier, then you can move to DCC and an around room investment with some permanency.

A middle ground is to mount the ez track to a sheet of plywood, for stability.

Since I know my kids are hooked, we are building an elaborate and expensive set that they operate under supervision (last locomotive I bought was $499). They still use their portable easy track for their "toy" HO trains. Might want to keep it simple at first, Mom.

Or, find a local model railroad club that will take your child under their collective wing while you figure out how elaborate you want to get. Bet there is one nearby, and many have websites.

Keusink

Crossing guards can be simple or complicated, depending on the track.

One type is ready made as a single unit, but it (if I recall correctly) has to have pre-made roadbed attached to it. Bachmann makes one, I believe.

The other kind is more authentic, more expensive, and usually depends on infra-red detection or other fancy devices to tell when a train is coming. The infrared senses the train's approach, and then lets another device know to activate a motor to raise and lower the guards. These are pretty complicated. One detector I use (for other purposes) is made by LogicRail. AND then you have to wire the motor and the flashing signal lights too.

For a newbie, the self contained crossing guard is probably the better choice, IF the crossing guard and the track/roadbed are compatible.

Probably should start with DC for simplicity, until you know your son is as addicted as the rest of us.  DC wiring is more straightforward, but DCC can give more options. I know I'll hear some arguments from that one on this site, but that is how we are. . . . 


I'm a relative newbie myself, and some of the older hands may have some thoughts?

Keusink

Jeffrey
I noticed your post re: signals, but had not yet installed my own yet.

Now they are installed, and work very well.

I got Tomar two light signals, but that is fairly standard. They are tripped and revert to green by infra-red sensors installed in the roadbed, and are made by LogicRail, in Texas. Since I am not electrically minded, I have had to call the inventor and manufacturer 3 times, and he has been just great. The board and sensor combination is an SA-1-IR (Signal Animator 1, infrared).

The train passes over the sensor, and the default green LED shuts off, the red turns on. Once the train has passed on, after a 10 or 30 second period (your choice), the red shuts off and the green comes back on.

My next project is infrared control of the turnout on a reverse loop, so I don't have to throw the switch every transit over the loop. Works on infrared in connection with the tortoise machine.

This same light sensor system works for green-yellow-red signals.
Chris

Jim
Stop eating hamburgers. They are bad for your arteries, and I am not done picking your brain for advice.

Chris

Thank you. They didn't teach me electronics in grad school. The folks on this site are the greatest!

Chris

Thanks Narrow

Yes, those are the instructions, though I am using IR sensors rather than a photocell.

My confusion lies to the right of the circled "two lead searchlight signal". The resistor and white wire seem to attach to the Red and Green on the right of the lights as well as the left, within that circle.

My impulse is to bypass the r and g, attach the white lead directly to a resistor, and hook it up to gnd on the other side on the opposite side of the board. BUT, I can't see why the left end of the resistor seems to be attached to the "U" lying on its side
in the schematic.

The signal light has three wires at the base, red, green, and white. If white bypasses r and g, hooks to resistor, then runs to gnd, please confirm.

Sure thank you for all the help over the years. AR-1's are working well, and the supposed warp in my trestle seems to have been defective loco's rather than tracks. Our favorite brand is replacing or repairing them now, but another more expensive brand of 2-10-2 works fine on those trestles. Bachmann is to be commended for their service department in dealing with the Northerns.

Please confirm on the hookup on the white lead, and thank you.

Chris

I'm embarrassed, but I don't know how to read electrical schematics. I have 9 signal animators by logicrail to hook up , 2 color signal w/ three leads (SA-1). To me, three leads mean the three wires attached to the signal. The schematics (on the net) show red and green wires to the signal animator on the left. To the right, red and green join to a white ground with a resistor.

In my ignorance, this means I need two each of the red and green wires. One each going to the signal animator, two each going to the ground and resistor. I only have one of each. So where do the read and green wires join to the ground in real life?

Of course today (Sunday) is the only day I have to do this, and I can't call logicrail to answer my stupid question.

Can someone help me with this question today? If I blow it, these puppies are expensive.

Apologetically, Chris

Rich
The documents accompanying the locomotive are sketchy, and give helpful information like "do not immerse locomotive in fluid to clean". No mention of decoders or DCC at all.

Don't decoders in tender require more than two wires to the loco?

Maybe I got hornswaggled on this?

Chris

I just bought a Rivarossi-Hornby, HO, new Hudson. Looks like the non-streamlined version, probably a J1e though not advertised as such.

I called before I ordered it, because it was advertised as "DCC ready". The supplier said it was just plug in and go. They recommend MRC decoder, which I do not like.

When I got the loco, there is only a two wire plug between loco and tender.

Does anyone recognize how this is "DCC ready"? Can anyone tell me what to get and do to turn the DCC ready ("JUST PLUG IN A DECODER") into a functioning dcc?

I like the loco because it gives me a full size freight with a shorter wheelbase than a Berk or Norhern. Suggestions or referreal to a site?

Chris

Thank you gentlemen. Can't tell you how valuable your support system is when there is no one to consult in the Boonies.

Chris

I posted an "I'm stuck" post a few days ago as to why my Digitrax zephyr wouldn't read back CVs from the program track, even with a PTB100. I post a new post because I have an answer from Digitrax of interest.

Digitrax tech support says zephyr will not read back from decoders on Bachmann locos with their factory installed decoders.

One of my prior responses from this site was to run a resistor across the program track, but I haven't had the chance to put that together yet.

Thoughts or comments? Bachmann, what do you think?

Chris

Thanks very much, gents.

Mr. Hunt, funny the Zephyr manual does not mention the resistor, but I'll try it.

Jim, you're right on all counts, and I tried a DPDT (wires not kitty cornered) to go from direct run of train on one side, isolated programming on the other side. PTB100 is powered by a separate 15 V source wall-wart type power source. Litchfield Station has a photograph of the PTB100 hookup straight (without DPDT option, Gartner site has DPDT diagram for same, tried all of the above, Acquired 6 Bachmann and one Intermountain Sound DCC's recently, so I sure would like to know what's going on.

Anyone else have a thought?

Chris

Tried setting up isolated program track today.
Components: Zephyr, Digitrax PTB 100, DPDT toggle, center off, for dual use.
Used 2 different Bachmann F7's, DCC no sound.

First try, PTB 100 flashes rapid red, can't read back CV's or addresses.

Second try, disconnect DPDT, hook up PTB 100 directly to power and Zephyr. Can't read back.

Last try, hook up Zephyr directly to program track. Can change address, can't read back. Change outputs to Zephyr, locos run. Change back to program, addresses will change, but won't read back.

Bought zephyr used, but don't see why it would run locos, change addresses, but not read back addresses.

Help?

Chris

PS; The set goes up and down from the garage ceiling by hoist, so the site referencing the computer driven system can't be applied to this set with practicality.