First Prize to Oltimer! That's it! I'm so excited! Thank you.

I'll need that separate district, because most of the loop is under a mountain. Where I can't see it. So that is where the short will occur.
Guaranteed.

Chris

Isn't the English language fun?  I would liken this scenario to a dogbone with a single crossover in the middle. I use insulated joiners rather than gaps, but the question is: Do the gaps go in the crossover? Also. if I wanted to isolate each end of the dogbone into a separate power district, does the auto reverser (which wires to both sides of the gap) eliminate my isolated district?
Sorry to be so unclear about what I am asking.

Chris

Dear All who responded:
My set will have a crossover, and a second track joins into the loop. Say, in Jim's diagram, there was another track  creating the loop to the top of the diagram, with a crossover between parallel tracks. Without the crossover, it would be a loop, but not a reverse loop.

Since I will be creating power districts using multiple bus wires, I thought I would make the loop a power district. The loop has probably 12 linear feet in it. I wondered whether using an auto reverser would destroy the integrity of the loop power district?

I have already bought AR-1's, and the turnouts are to be operated by tortoise. As you can see, I have enough knowledge to be dangerous, but not enough to be competent. Nor will my computer skills allow me to draw it. Imagine two parallel tracks with a crossover. The north track loops back to the south track, and trains can use the crossover to choose the direction of travel around the loop by using the crossover or not using it. Do the insulating track joiners go in the middle of the crossover? Will the loop remain a separate power district with the AR-1?

Chris

New to DCC. I have two reverse loops. Will plan on auto reversers.
I will be isolating separate blocks, and each reverse loop will be isolated. My purpose for blocking is to identify sections in the event of a short..

Does the auto reversing wiring undo the isolation of the blocks on either side of the insulated track joiners?

One reverse loop is created by a single crossover leading into it. Can someone confirm for me that the insulating connectors go at the intersection of the turnout sections creating the crossover?

Hope this makes senseThanks in advance. Chris

I used a Rivarossi Berk, and athearn heavyweight kits. The cars are of course, green. The stripe is of course, red. Lettering is of course , gold (its Christmas, you guys!). The observation car of the kit has a nice back rail enclosure (painted gold, of course) in which the kid's imagination can sing a romantic duet back there.

All are HO, and it is a beautiful train. Of course, the Berk was a freight engine so you'll need another Berk for the rest of the year.

If you feel lazy, just locate heavyweight kits and spraypaint them green before installing the windows and details.

We have a snow covered town, set, and forest that fits on the dining room table from Thanksgiving through January. I just can't find HO scale wolves to run in a pack during the lost ticket scene . . . .


Chris Keusink

Thank you all for responding. Here's my problem.

This estate is giving me first choice of any of 47 locos at $50 each, my choice. I've only seen photos, and will have only a few minutes to go through them in person.

I don't want tp pay $50 for a loco that costs $38 new. And, if there is an MTH, Blue Line, Spectrum, Rivarossi, brass, or other higher end loco, I don't want to miss them. Also, I don't need 47 locos for my set.

JIM BANNER. I agree that higher quality brands should have their name on it. It is just that I don't know where to look for them. Help!

The photos show a couple of Bachmann 2-6-2 or 2-6-0 (some are still in their boxes, which is how I know) where the decendent (big lawyer word) has the tender open and was in the process of installing 8 or 10 wires into them, and attaching them to the loco with heat shrink tubing. DCC? Chris.

I have a chance to pick and choose from an estate having 47 HO locomotives. Where do manufacturers generally put their ID in the loco? Usually, the underside only says "Made in China". Most of these locos are not in the original box.

Also, if it is a Bachmann, can I tell from looking at it whether it is a Spectrum? Where do I look?

Some of these have been customized with wiring between tender and loco. Does that necessarily mean it is DCC?

Chris Keusink

Thanks. I thought there are only four wires on the Daylight DCC equipped, but I'll look again. The wires that pulled out came out of the plug from the tender that plugs into the loco. The surrounding plug is plastic. How do I affix the wire back into the socket that held it? Or do I have to dismantle the loco, bypass the plug, and solder the wires directly into the loco?

This is the cheaper beginner version of Daylight, not a Spectrum, if that makes a difference.

I don't know how to solder the wires back into their plug receptacles without melting the surrounding plastic.

I'm a newbie. Our DCC wiring in the basic DCC Daylight plug pulled out of the socket. The two outside (4 wires total) pulled out. I don't know which is which. How can I fix it? Rather learn myself than send it in.