That's a reasonable question and a good answer. I was wondering the same thing myself. The terminology in this hobby is pretty confusing sometimes. This bulletin board is a fantastic help with questions whether simple or complicated. There's always people willing to help.
    Ted

Hey _ _D,  Thanks for the more specific explanation of what a "Wall-Wart is. I had seen them mentioned in other threads but never knew what they were. Like you mentioned, I have a bunch in a box from old razors, computer add-ons, clock-radios and the like. But didn't know there was even a name for them. Just that the directions with the appliance always says not to use a different one.
    I wonder if using a separate supply would help the turnouts open and close more completely ???

    Thanks to all who have offered their insight here. All very good info. For the most part it's too late for me now to make the changes.
    Since this is my first layout, I've suspected right along that it would be a "practice" layout. That fact is becoming more and more obvious on a daily basis now. Thanks again, you guys are great!!! 

    Well I was pretty much convinced that Metal couplers were going to be in my future. But I only run 10 or less cars. Also now I have questions as to what couplers will fit in the draft gearbox of my existing stock, (not Thomas & Friends, just regular Bachmann stuff). How do I figure that out?

    That's right WGL !!  And that's why I gave up too. Pretty tuff on a 4 X 8 sheet. Especially for someone like me who is just trying to figure out all the intricacies of this hobby to start with.
    Thanks to everyone who has added to this and other topics that have helped me. You've prevented a lot of catastrophes. 

    Ted

    OK, I've learned that I shouldn't always expect my turnouts to perform properly. Is that going to be the case with couplers as well?
    I have some couplers with leaf type springs and others with coil type springs on the knuckles. Haven't really been able to figure out which is the problem.
    I've gone through all my rolling stock and adjusted the couplers and pins with the height gauge. It really seems more like the springs are loosing tension. But this is all new stuff only a couple months old.

    That's a great idea Len. I've got some logs that look more like those "Slim Jim" snacks than lumber. So bad I just run the car empty!! I'll get some stick out of the yard and be in business.

    Thanks guys! As usual I appreciate all the advice. This board has been a great help with this and other questions that have kept me away from the hobby for years.
    My nearest hobby shop is 40 miles away and there's not always someone there who knows about trains. You guys have made a definite difference for me and other newbies like me. 

    In an article from Model Railroader Magazine there's a graph and example of how to plan raises in elevation.
    According to the graph, in order to achieve a 2.5% grade and the 2 1/2 to 3 inches of clearance in order to run an HO train under that overpass, my calculations come up with a necessary track run of about 125 inches. That's almost ten and a half feet.
    However, the example shown with that graph indicates only 50 inches which is just over 4 ft. I'm working with an 8 X 4 layout and am wondering if my calculations are anywhere near correct.
    Thanks in advance for any advice.
    Ted

Hey Jonathan,
    I'll tag along too if you don't mind. I'm really new at the hobby and just starting to learn a little bit about DCC in general. Probably be a while before I transition, but like to know what I'm getting involved in before I plunge.
    I'll be looking for future posts, Thanks!!
    Ted

    Thank you both!! Thanks luvmykids for asking the question. And thankyou Donaldon for your complete and concise and easy to understand answer. It's another of your answers that any of us newbies can understand and learn from.    Ted

   This is great!!! I just visited the Bachmann refurbished equipment page. Part of the writeup says that the refurbished equipment can't be sold as new so they sell it as refurbished. Well, I just a month ago bought the "brand new" Bachmann Overland Express as my first train set. It came with a locomotive a tender and nine freight cars. Guess what. The nine freight cars are the exact same cars as that are displayed in the "refurbished" offerings. One minor difference is the gondola is a different railroad and color.[/

    Every bit of information I've gotten from this bulletin board has been helpful. Each and every step I take decreases the number of turnout derailments I suffer. The weight on some of my rolling stock was way off, and some of the couplers and pins were low. Those corrections helped a little more.     
    I checked all the cars with the standards gauge and there were no problems with the wheels.
    The only derailments I have now are while backing through a turnout. Mostly it's the car trying to get through a turnout with a longer car coming next. Even at very slow speeds. Other times it's the longer car that derails.
    I'm not glued down yet and wonder if there might be some slight movement in the track that adds to the problem.
    As always I appreciate any suggestions!
    Thanks,
    Ted

  Here's my experience with EZ Track remote turnouts. First I had to do some filing and very slight bending. That reduced my derails significantly but not completely. I'm running a 2-8-4 on 18" curves. A lot of my problems were with the pilot and trailing trucks. So I took them off. That helped quite a bit more. I'm new at this and am learning as I go. I've done a little tinkering with the frogs, and will start paying closer attention to the coupler pins.

    Hey ryeguy! Funny to see a post from you. I was just reading your entry about the brass 2-10-4. What a beauty!
    The information here is phenomenal!
    Thanks,
    Ted