Okay, as mentioned before, I decided I'd dedicate a thread specifically to the first real model railroad project I've ever done. So, let's get started with the table.
I constructed the table myself out of the following materials:
Three 8 ft. 4x4s
Three 10 ft. 2x4s
One 8x4 Plywood panel cut into one 3x8 panel, two 3x1 panels, and some leftover wood for use as filler.
Assorted wood screws
At first, I was going to make the table extremely simple. It was going to simply be a piece of plywood with four legs nailed to it. However, the naivety of my carpentry knowledge quickly became apparent when I noticed how warped this (and every other) piece of plywood was, which was only amplified when I actually tried to drive nails through the plywood at a straight angle. Okay, so taking the simple route wasn't going to work. So, I decided (in a moment of clarity) that building a frame of 2x4s and then attaching the plywood to it using a drill and wood screws would be far better. Needless to say, it was. Exibit 1:
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k193/bigsol81/Stage1.jpg)
As you can see, the frame worked rather well, as anchoring the plywood to the frame made it nice and flat. However, as you can see, there's a problem:
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k193/bigsol81/Stage1a.jpg)
Again, my amatuer carpentry knowledge failed and I didn't realize that a 2x4 isn't REALLY 2x4, but rather 1 1/2" by 3-point-something. As a result, I had gaps where my pre-measured crossbeams (At 32", which is what 3' minus the 2 inches on each side for the "2x4"s) were supposed to go. So, I had to improvise by using some of that leftover plywood sheet as filler material. It worked well enough. You'll notice that the 'frame' is 2 feet longer than the table top. This is because I wanted a 3x10 table, but the hardware store only sells plywood, obviously, in 4x8. Fortunately, the extra 1-foot panel I had them cut off of the original 4x8 could easily be cut into two 3x1 panels, which were then placed onto the remaining framework.
Once that was done, it was time to attach the legs. Compared to the other work, this was a piece of cake:
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k193/bigsol81/Stage2.jpg)
There we go! Legs! 3 1/2 feet long, putting the table at a perfect height for me to use without having to stoop over or stretch to reach across it. The legs are really anchored to the table, too, with 4 wood screws each. Once the legs were on, it was time to flip it over:
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k193/bigsol81/Stage3.jpg)
As you can see, we got the table turned upright without breaking anything important. Also, you'll notice I attached those two final 3x1 pieces to the end there. The 'overhang' seen at the left of the image is where the controls (power pack, switch controls, etc) will be placed, and where I'll stand most of the time while operating the railroad.
Now, this next step might be out of the ordinary for others here, but this felt like the most comfortable way of doing things. I pulled out my track and started putting it together just as I plan to have it when the track is complete. This gives me an excellent view of just where the track will lie once the cork is down. Here are the results:
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k193/bigsol81/Stage4.jpg)
Yes, obviously I couldn't resist putting the train on the tracks, connecting the power pack, and running a few circuits on it. It runs well, though this process did indicate a few spots where I failed to properly connect the track together. This has been fixed.
Tomorrow, I need to buy some of the tiny nails used to nail the track to the cork. Then, I'll move the track aside and begin outlining the places where the cork will go, followed by replacing the track once more. Then that should finalize the process and I'll have my first model railroad completed.
Good start. When you lay track, take your finger and run over each and every track connection, both ways. Your finger must run smoothly. Track has an uncanny ability to ride up over the joiner. :D
Work on that extra foot. It will make all the difference in the world. You can reach across four feet if you are six feet tall and have some sort of a step stool. Another solution is to build a trap door in the center. Concealing trap doors with scenery is a wonderful way to pass time.
Gene
QuoteThen, I'll move the track aside and begin outlining the places where the cork will go...
Don't. Squeeze all of your track sections tightly together and mark a center line between the ties every few inches, then take the track up. Connect the dots and use the line to lay your cork. The cork will be in two pieces when you lay it. A brad nailer makes quick work of laying cork on plywood.
Nice start! I wonder what it will look like once you (eventually) get the scenery in. And I am somehwhat jealous that you got a head start on me. A BIG head start. You have your table and everything down and should have the track going on cork soon. I'm still atleast $311 (and a final track plan) short of starting construction! :o
One thing that I noticed about your carpentry. You should make some braces for the legs. Like
cut a board so it come down at may be a 45 degree angle for each leg. Home Depot may even
have metal ones. You don’t want you table to fall down.
With 2x4s for legs that might not be necessary, but a good idea. I'd use a 1x2 an cross brace between the legs, leaving the sides free so you can get to the wiring.
Gene
I am looking forward in seeing your layout progress. The base of ours started out the same and it was amazing on how quickly it had grown. Good luck!
If you're thinking of moving, build it in modulars. My dad's friend is with the HO Strasburg RR club and gave us that tip. AND WHAT A TIP IT IS!!! We just moved, so, yup, no major cutting/destroying needed. ;D
Can't wait to see it grow!
Most of the corking is now complete.
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k193/bigsol81/Corking1.jpg)
As you can see, the workspace is still quite cluttered, but that will be cleared up once I've finished corking all of the track. For now, the outer oval is finished.
Of course, it didn't turn out 100% perfect. My calculations were a bit off, and I ended up having to used a piece of flex track right here.
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k193/bigsol81/Corking2.jpg)
Yes, this segment was SUPPOSED to be straight:
Finally, I was 7/8th of an inch off, so I had to cut rail and patch the remaining segment of track:
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k193/bigsol81/Patch.jpg)
Despite the appearance, I can gladly say that the train runs over all of the track silently and flawlessly, so I feel that the overall project was a success. All I have to do now is put the central track in and the track laying will be finished for the time being.
QuoteYes, this segment was SUPPOSED to be straight:
So you didn't follow my advice and mark a center line for your cork while the track was down and properly located?
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k193/bigsol81/Stage4.jpg)
I'd redraw the crooked radius and relay the cork. It comes up fairly easily with a putty knife and some care. And Atlas makes an assortment of very short sectional track pieces for the gap. You could also slide some spare ties from your flex track under the splice.
When I saw that it was going to curve, I decided to leave it in. I realized that real life railroads aren't perfectly straight, and the bend in the track is pretty mild, so I ended up leaving it in for added realism.
Go for it mate, looks great and I'm looking forward to future pics.I have also just started an 8'X4' layout and as time permits I'll drop a pic down to show you what I'm doing on this side of the world. Chers KiwiRob.