This loco stops in turnouts - the problem is that only one wheel in the trailing truck picks up current -
any suggestions how to solve this problem?
regards
lasse
Can you see why only one of the wheels is picking up current?
is a wheel lifting?
I run a lot of 4 driver locomotives on30 and g scale, to rid myself of pickup issues on turnouts dedicate a car to always run behind the loco and add pickups to its wheels and then add a micro plug connector between them.
By doing this you can crawl through turnouts at very slow speeds without a problem.
NM-Jeff
Thanks for your comments-the 2 screws in the trailing truck are OK and the problem seems to be to transfer current from the 4 wheels to the motor via these screws
regards
lasse
Your Forney should perform perfectly on points ( switches) without modification or any additional vehicles arranged to provide additional power pickup!
I have a number of Forneys and all work fine, I suggest you have a real good look at yours, turn it upside down on a pad of thick foam or similar to protect the detail parts, and use an ordinary DC analogue power unit to apply power to each set of wheels in turn, this will then isolate the faulty set, from theron check all the contacts on the wheels backs etc to make sure that there is good CLEAN contact.
It is also worth checking that your switches are laid correctly without any deviation from the flat as this may cause wheels to lose momentary track contact as the go over the turnout.
Hope this helps.
Hello Steve
I live in Sweden but have been in Wales lots of time at work-around Swansea-also made a trip on Central Wales railway-not sure if this is the correct name-
'stops every mile- via Shrewbury and to Crew-also up to Snowdonia-a 2´ railway on the way up
Now I am retired -
Forney-you say contacts on backside of the wheels- I can´t find any- connection screws in trailing truck/motor are OK-
How is the transfer of current between wheels and motor ?
Best regards
Lasse
Hi Lasse
Thats correct the Central wales Line I drove on a brifge across it just this Morning!
We live about 50km from Snowdon but can see it from about 15 KM from home on a clear day!
The information I gave you re the Forney from was from memory! Mine are at another friends layout at the moment I only have a couple of Mallets and a climax and 4-6-0 here Also a Railbus!
The power transfer method from the wheels may be a little difficult to see and possibly at the top of the wheel,
On the Railbus the pickups on the wheels are above the wheels on both power & trailer car and are quite hard to find!
Hopefully someone with a Forney may be able to take a quick look at theirs and advise you, in the meantime I will try to contact my friend and ask him to look at one of mine!
regards Steve
Hello Lasse,
The rear bogie wheel current pick up is fed through two tiny (enamelled or lacquered) wires, which look as if they are uncoated. I assume this is to make them extra-flexible as well as insulated.
You will have to remove the body from the frame, which isn't difficult.
If you have a Multimeter, check the continuity between the wheels and the points where the two wires enter the main PCB. I had a bit of a problem there, and had to re-solder one of the wires at this point.
As a postscriptum, I eventually removed the rear bogie and converted the Forney into a 2-4-0 "Victoria" with a small tender. This was due to the more than excessive rear end swing, which kept sweeping following wagons off the track.
Now, after the aforementioned conversion to a 2-4-0, my ex-Forney has never ran or looked better....
(And she c-r-a-w-l-s through the turnouts beautifully...)
:)
It's been a while but I believe the rear bunker will come off without removing the entire cab/body. just remove the tiny screws under the bunker.
NM-Jeff
Hi Jeff,
I believe you are right...
Lasse,
As I recall, the rear bogie frame is in two die-cast parts, which are insulated from each other. The respective wheels collect the current from the rails, and feed it to the left and right hand insulated sections. It is these sections that are connected to the PCB via the tiny wires, which are screwed to the frame halves.
Hope this helps.
:)
Hi and thanks for this information-have tried to move the small screws but it did not help-assume the problem must be that current collected by the wheels
is not colleced by the insulated frames and from the small screws and tiny cables-to the motor
regards
Lasse
Lasse,
You might want to take the axles out of the rear truck and clean the holes out to make sure there is no paint or other junk in there also check continuity between the alxe and the wheel surface.
NM-JEff
Hello Jeff-thanks for advice-all wheels in the trailing truck are OK now-will also replace insulfrog turnout to electrofrog
regards
Lasse