No DCC switches for N scale. Boo Hoo Hoo. Okay fine. I have my reverse loop modules leftover from my HO days. already set to N scale.
The question is: Is there an N scale equivalent to the HO part no. 44597.
Yes I'd much prefer a pre-built insulated piece.
Thank you.
You guys rock.
The question is: Is there an N scale equivalent to the HO part no. 44597.
Answer: Not listed in online catalog
Click Here (http://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=265)
Standard switches are powered by a solenoid. EZ-Trak switches use a rack and pinion mechanism to move the throwbar. Other brands power the throwbar directly by the solenoid. Higher-end switch machines sometimes use DC motors to drive the throwbar.
Solenoid switch motors can be driven by either AC or DC. Most people use AC from the AC terminals of the powerpack. Some people with a large number of powered switches may use extra powerpacks for added AC power.
Solenoid-powered switches are easy to wire. The most commonly-used makes, Bachmann and Atlas, come with switch controller boxes that can be ganged together so a row of them can be powered by two wires to the powerpack. Each switch requires three wires to the controller: a wire each for each route; and a third wire for common return. If the switch doesn't throw in the direction you like, just reverse the outer two wires. On a Bachmann switch, this merely involves unplugging the connector at the bottom of the switch controller and turning it upside down and plugging it back in.
This is so simple and easy I would consider it a waste of resources to control the switch with DCC.
My model railroad uses 30 EZ-Trak switches and 20 Atlas switches. All are powered. At first, I was having problems with the EZ-Trak switches not throwing or not throwing with enough power. After disassembling and adjusting several switches (a trying task) I discovered the problem was not in the switches, but in corrosion on the contacts below the control boxes. Cleaning the contacts and switching to a pilotless water heater solved the problem. I think fumes from the water heater pilot light was the source of the corrosion (on the aluminum contacts).
Les
Is it safe to assume that using part number 44897, and cutting the rails, very VERY scary, and using the reverse loop modules, I can create a reverse loop for my N scale DCC layout?
Thank you
No mo HO
Quote from: No mo HO on November 23, 2015, 03:44:29 PM
Is it safe to assume that using part number 44897, and cutting the rails, very VERY scary, and using the reverse loop modules, I can create a reverse loop for my N scale DCC layout?
Rather than cutting, I would remove the joiners and replace them with insulated plastic ones.
That's what I'm doing with my HO layout's reverse loops.
I used to run HO. So assuming I can get the joiners off WITHOUT pulling of the rail as well, can I then just plug everything else in as usual. No wiring, soldering, or stuff like that? The genetic powers that be have made it abundantly clear, I no longer have that ability.
Anyway thank you
No mo HO
Be safe railing this holiday. Don't drink and rail.
Quote from: No mo HO on November 23, 2015, 09:38:09 PM
So assuming I can get the joiners off WITHOUT pulling of the rail as well, can I then just plug everything else in as usual. No wiring, soldering, or stuff like that?
That's right, the auto-reversers are 'plug and play' when installed between a pair of terminal tracks.
If you're worried about the rails coming off, you might try holding the rail directly with a pair of pliers as you pull the joiner with your other hand.