I just picked up a right and a left #6. So far they seem to work nicely and the mechanism seems vastly improved over the older 11.25 turnouts I have.

On the back of the card are directions and a photo for guidance on how to power/unpower the frog. However on both turnouts there is physically nothing there. No mounting point, no screw, no wires.

I'm getting slight hesitation as it goes through the turnout even with a longish steamer with tender pickup. Just curious as to how I can check if the frog is powered (duh I can use a meter) but I'm curious as the difference between the packaging and the actual turnout.

I doubt I'll spend any time making up and breaking these trains but I'd like to get them closer coupled and a little better looking. Also the 4-4-0 tender coupler.

EZ Mate shorts OK?

I'd already cleaned everything, the wheels were turning fine it just wasn't moving. A closer examination (under high magnification) of the traction tires revealed issues. I pulled them off, it's possible they had shrunk to the point where they no longer were in contact with the track. I replaced the traction tires last night, going to try and reassemble it tonite. If it runs as good as the 1st does now, I'll be happy.

Got it!

Took a 5/16th dowel, cut it down to about 1.25". put one end in a pencil sharpener until I had a cone shape (you don't want the end pointy!)

Slip the tire over the narrowed end and gently work it up. When it's all the way up move it down about .25" from the end. Line up the end of the dowel with the wheel. Put the whole thing in a Panavise and close it up keeping the dowel aligned with the driver. It isn't perfect, but close enough. Slip the tire down the rest of the way. Out of 4 1 slipped on with almost no problems, the other 3 needed tobe coaxed. I have a watch repair kit with a tiny little pin punch which I used to get under the tire and then just popped it onto the wheel.

Cool stuff. thanks

Since I have a fairly large quantity of EZ track (acquired both free and at very good discounts) and don't think I'll have a more permanent N layout anytime in the near future, I'm going to tough it out despite some issues.

I have a  stack of the older switches some of which work better than others that I intend to more carefully troubleshoot. In the meantime the new(er) #6 and #4 switches, is there enough experience that they are better, worse, or the same as the original 12.5" radius turnouts?

Presumably power routing like the older ones?

Main issues I experienced were incomplete throws, engines picking the points, power (not) routing. Having stepped away from it for two years, I think I've gained a little perspective, not all were new when I bought (or was given) them but still, knowing these were for beginners you'd think they'd be more robust.

Presuming not all will survive my retesting and will need replacing. Anyway the smaller diverging angle looks like it might be easier for longer locos and cars to pass though them.

So anyone use them yet or the #6 crossovers? What has been your experience?

Wow do I have big fingers! Trying to change traction tires on a 4-4-0. The old ones come off easily enough. I have a box of tires from Calumet (box is at home, don't remember full name) package says specifically that they will fit this particular model.

I have a dowel that I tapered on one end to expand the tire as I pushed up the cone and then slide ti down towards the wheel pressed against the full diameter end of the dowel. So far no joy.

Anyone got a trick for this that doesn't involve large quantites of bourbon?

Oops! had another idea while visualizing to explain it. Well, any of your ideas may help soooo...

At $25 to replace them, I am going to spend a few minutes tinkering and then just send the bad ones back. I have 2 in CP and 2 in UP. I was quite impressed with the one that ran well. The UPs have the thick drive shaft and the CPs have the thin ones (like in the parts catalog now. Haven't tried the CPs yet.

Just seemed odd that it worked so well in reverse.

I need to develop a bit more patience, I just took the N stuff out again after a long hiatus, a move and extreme frustration with getting things to work. This time I got 2 of the more troublesome units up to speed.

Took a bunch of locos, etc out of storage last few days. Got a 4-4-0 N scale that runs great. The other, well, it runs great off the track, it runs great in reverse, forward however, not so much. Thinking it might be the mass of the tender that helps keep the driving wheels on track in reverse. In forward, it slips, wheels spin doesn't sound healthy.

Thinking this may be my first Bullfrog Snot test. Any other thoughts on it. It runs really good in reverse, as good as the first one in forward which I had pulling 6 cars cars on the test track after clean and lube.

If he is referrring to the EZ Track switches it's 11.25. I know because not 3 feet away I'm looking at it.

Quote from: mhampton on December 16, 2009, 01:24:44 PM
I'm not sure of the distance between the parallel tracks, but I always understood the divergent route to be the equivalent of a full section of 19" radius curve.  A full piece of 19" curve should be all that is necessary to get a properly spaced parallel siding.

Thanks guys!

Well I don't know exactly what i did but one of them is running very nicely now. The other ate up it's drive shaft and I think I may just send it in for a refurb or replace.

The runner will not pull every car I have up a 25% grade, but considering that it wouldn't pull itself originally and I have it pulling 2 coaches, a combine, a flat, a gon, a box and the caboose, I'd say things are looking up.

Now if Bachmann only had more of the old time stuff and sold it as separates.

Frank

Where do you apply lube on the tender?

If one were to buy a replacement shell from parts how would one disassemble the tender to make the swap.?

I have the trucks off, the screw in the center doesn't seem to back out when I turn it and I don't want to force the rds plastic cross thingy the screw passes through.

Same on the plate covering the coupler, screws turn but don't seem to want to back out.

Don't want to gorilla the little bugger, so Help!

Frank

Quote from: brokemoto on December 09, 2009, 10:09:04 AM
This locomotive requires a long break in time.

How long? I just got two of 'em. They look real good, I'm hopefull they will do well. But as of the break in not so much.

Frank

Quote from: fieromike on November 19, 2009, 04:54:57 AM
Offhand, the only thing I can think of is to get an NMRA standards gauge and check to see if all your wheels are in gauge.  It sounds like you have some that are gauged too narrow.

Mike

Absolutely! My 4-8-4, which is new, had both pilots were to narrow and 2 of the drivers. Kept picking the points on an EZ TRack switch. Now that it's adjusted it runs fine, running right now behind me.

Frank

If he's using EZ TRack, the switches can provide some blocking. I'm playing with it now to set up a basic layout while I'm working on a "real" layout.

I have 2 loops, one inside the other connected by switches arranged as crossovers. I think I have 3 or 4 blocks already, I going to add some more for sidings and holding tracks.

Good luck.

Frank

The bell on my 4-8-2 Light seems to have gone missing. Parts says they are sold out. Will they be getting more in? Os ther a substitute?

Y'all really shoulda superglued it on. I will when i get another one.

Frank