Bachmann's GP7 and GP9 have a drive with a very good price performance ratio with a new DCC decoder added. The shell is good enough to be used at operating sessions and simple enough to be used as a base for not so gifted kit bashers (like me). In case of failure is the ruined engine still affordable.

The only uncertainly are the handrails. They were easy to remove at the GP7 used for the SP but glued like hell at the GP9 used for the Corman.

I did two Corman and two SP Geeps. The Corman paint job is done with the rattle can. The SP was done with Polly Scale, airbrush (gray) and handpainted (red). Nothing exceptional but nice work horses running smooth.

Did someone convert a Bachmann H0 Doodlebug into one of the many versions owned by the MStL?

I would be glad to learn from previous conversions.

Reinhard

My favorite is the 2-8-0. It is the smallest engine with the typical appearance of larger US steamers. That is an important fact due to my small layout not permitting larger engines (I own also 2-10-0 and Mikado but they do not really fit). The second advantage is the extreme smooth and silent running. My four 2-8-0 run as soft and silent like much more expensive models.

The smaller 4-6-0 (low and high boiler) and the 4-4-0 are nice too (I own some of each) but they do not run as smooth as the 2-8-0. They make all kind of sounds. Not to loud but well noticeable. They are great second winners

I use a somewhat simplified method. The new pickups are glued in place. From 2-8-0 down to 4-4-0 all my Spectrum steamers got that treatment. They run as if a battery is in the tender

I did receive my second 4-6-0 low boiler engine today.
The same problems. The very dim lamp but and worse a draw bar of the front truck that lifts the engine up and limits traction to the last axis.

Quote from: richG on July 18, 2008, 01:49:20 PM
What is the style/brand of LED for future reference?

I used a "standard" LED I had "on stock". There is lots of space to install most common used LEDs. Your pictures demonstrate that very good. It is more important to use a LED that has a warm white color.

Ok, I disassembled the boiler and cab. Replaced the dim blue LED with a bright warm white one and assembled the engine.
Looks much better

Thank you!

Quote from: richG on July 17, 2008, 06:31:45 PM
the link will take you to another forum that you can read without joining.

Rich, thank you.
Is there a specific reason why the cab has been removed from the boiler? I plan to remove the boiler with the cab as one unit. On the pictures the cab is not shown.

Quote from: richG on July 17, 2008, 04:46:29 PM
If you ever want to pull the loco apart, I have photos of how it is done and what it looks like inside the boiler. Be advised, there are quite a few "pipes" on the boiler you should be aware of.

Rich,
I would be glad to get the photos.

I'm sorry not to write some more details.

The engine came as the DC version. The head light was very dim. I did install a Loksound 3.5 decoder and used a 1kOhm resistor for the head lamp. It is still very dim. I did remove the PCB.

I hesitate to reduce the resistor as the head lamp was also so dim with DC. May be I will give it a try with 680Ohm but no less. Are the specs of the used LED known? In that case I could calculate the resistor.
btw. the LED has "old white" color. The looks very bad in an old steam engine. My high boilers have a yellow LED. I would prefere gold white but that is better than cold blue.

I did install a Loksound decoder in a 4-6-0 low boiler today. The PCB became removed and I used the wires previously connected the PCB as follows:

1. IN/R and IN/L go to the track (R=right, L=left)
2. Next two solder points on the component side labeled M 2 and 1 are the motor
3. The solder pads around the corner on the bottom side labeled LED2 - and + are used for the front LED.

Hope that helps

I've got two high boiler 4-6-0. Both have a yellow and bright front lamp.
My first low boiler arrived today.

1. The front lamp is ice cold blue and very dim. It is so dim it is close to useless.
Can I do something (except disassembling the whole engine and install a better LED)?

2. The draw bar of the front truck is too thick. The front truck is forced too low and the engine rides on the front truck and the last axis only. I had to build a custom draw bar that respects the reduced space of the low boiler version and lets the front truck swing further up.

There is a second low boiler on order. I will see if my first unit is an exception.

ps. I have not quality problems with the other 4-6-0, 4-4-0 and 2-8-0 of Bachmann Spectrum.

Two Spectrum 4-4-0 arrived today. I did install the speaker and decoders directly.
That was a positive surprise. The speaker fits under the PCB and the Loksound 3.5 decoders fits fine on top of the PCB and under the (plastic) coal. No modifications required.

However, the current pickup is not as good/save as I like it. I will rework the tender to pickup at all wheels on both sides. I modified a method from On30 tenders with springs from Kadee couplers for H0 size. It'simple and fast.

The NYC steam page at fallen flag has a complete of all NYC steam engines in 1930 with description and drawings.
I checked all C and F class engines. None of them match the Spectrum 4-4-0 or 4-6-0.

Conclusion:
These engines can not be "converted" into NYC engines in 1930 by decals only. They are not even close. The F46 looks similar but it is a ALCO engine and not a Baldwin. There is nothing that comes close to the low boiler version.

The pickup is really no problem.
I do not like the noise of the running engine. It sounds bad while the little loco runs fine and smooth.
You have to fight fire with fire!
I installed a Loksound micro into that little beast without problems. The decoder fits under one hood, the speaker under the other hood. Only thing to change are the lights. The lamps have to be replaced by LED directly glued into each hood.

Have fun!