QuoteI bought the E-Z Command Plus and went back to my standard E-Z Command. I didn't like the "infinite" throttle. I didn't care for the additional function stuff because I just like the simplicity.

This is good info.  I didn't know that the EZ plus uses an "infinite" type throttle.

QuoteEZ Command vs Dynamis should not be an either/or decision.

I agree wholeheartedly.  I'm still on the fence as to whether to purchase the Dynamis.  Mainly cause there isn't much of a review on this system from US users.  The European hobbyist seem to like the Dynamis from my research, but I'm not going to go into their likes or dislikes. 

When I moved to the EZ command it was a no brainer.  I being, what I call an "intermediate modeler", that is, not obsessed with functionality, but a stickler when it comes to layout details and having the obsession to change the layout on the fly unlike the more experienced modelers who do not make massive changes in their layouts.  The EZ command thus far, has been easy to make layout adjustments without a hassle. 
As Dr McCoy stated in Star Trek, "I know engineers, they're always changing things".  That's me, in a nutshell.  Having a fancier DCC controller where I'd only use its basic operations would, in my case, be overkill.  It would be like owning a Corvette, Porsche, or Ferrari and only driving it in rush-hour traffic.

Lastly, I thank all for your comments, keep'em coming.  This forum is still the best of the forums I read.

Interesting!
 I agree, some folks want a shorter loop track.  My loop isn't as circular as your diagram shows.  My track is more squarish or rectangular.  I have to admit that I use the coupler insulators instead of the gapped track that Bachmann provides.

You've got me thinking!  How close does the gap (or gap track) need to be to the connection switch?    That is, couldn't you have the gap further into the curve and still have the loop function?

I would love to have the well wagon sold again.

Whiff is someone cool that we should see soon . The only other characters that appear in both model and CGI engine wise that Bachmann has yet to do is havery whiff and diesel 10 . Whiff could be hard to put his glasses on his face .Harvey is super tall and I doubt he could happen . Diesel 10 would be a best seller but the claw is hard however diesel 10 could fit NMRA standards if they put his claw infont of the cab windows and make it removable .
So Diesel 10 and whiff could happen if Bachmann figures out a way which I am sure they will considering they have gotten brake rigging on rebbecca .

I do think this years NMRA is gonna be quiet. My picks for this years NMRA for HO is the following

Arry
Bert 
Well wagon with Bert the miniature engine load
Troublesome truck #7

Putting the iron through a plastic shell was basically a joke.

But. Fill me in.  I've not been very aware of availability of separate DCC only Decoders without sound, and a separate sound only decoder. If that's the case, can one piggyback a sound only decoder onto an existing Silent DCC Decoder.  Please elaborate on this for my enlightenment.

I have 3 N Scale DD40AX that I bought around the late 2010's that have DCC but did not have sound at the time.  Is there a board replacement, or some way that I can add sound to these decoders?

Well, I finally finished putting the "Farm" scene together.  My next project will be to
'frame' it in.  Enjoy the pics.  The water tank is a Woodlands Scenic product.









The Oliver 'Super 77' is a Miniprint.com production.


More to follow,

Ken

WHile I agree with Trainman to about having sound professionally installed, or better yet factory installed, i need to ask who leaves a plastic shell laying around near a hot soldering iron? That defies common sense. I have no problems installing DCC in a locomotive. Most are now plug n play anyway, and adding DCC is as simple as plugging in a decoder. DCC with SOUND is a whole other level of complexity. That's a distinction that needs to be made in any discussion about DCC.

Hi Craig, to answer your question, 1991.  This is actually the fifth variation of back when
I laid down that first sheet of plywood.  It started as two pieces of plywood laid end to end.
All the track was a simple pinched oval or dog bone with a few turnouts.

A few years later I added a second level and doubled the track length.  The third level was originally
a return-loop.  After getting tired of all the stop-reverse polarity-and go of manual DC operation,
I added another length of track to have a continuous run up and down all three levels.  That's
where we are today.

Ken

Getting professional installation of DCC is one of the best ways you can spend your money, in my thinking.  Unless you really, really like playing with electronics and extreme micro soldering.  Some folks do, more power to them.  But we have gotten people on here before whose first question is how to make the train go and the next question is how do I install DCC.  I've spent a fair amount of money having a pro install DCC/sound in well over 25 engines, but then, he is a friend and gives me good rates.  Because of that, I've never burned out a decoder or put my soldering iron through a plastic engine shell.