Oh come on!
That sort of question should have been easily established by the asker in the time he took to run up his PC, find this site and then type the question out and wait for an answer.
I'll say no more.

Why don't you open it up and have a look - after all that's what some of us would have to do to answer your question?

I haven't got the latest Pico catalogue to hand, but off the top of my head I think the UK price was around £37.00 say a tad under $75.00 for you lot over the pond

Should be available in September and catalogue Number is LK55A - it's just a variation on their standard OO scale T/T.
Taken them a long time to get it into production.

In answer to your question, the rumors of reliability are overstated!
Unless of course you're buying Hornby DCC equipment where the rumors of reliability are understated

Home page of this site.

  What's the Buzz?

The new On30 Painted Unlettered - Bumble Bee (Item No. 25249) is shipping now! See the full line-up of our On30 2-6-0s HERE. :: more ::

The new On30 Painted Unlettered - Bumble Bee (Item No. 25249) is shipping now! See the full line-up of our On30 2-6-0s HERE.
Features include:

operating headlight
completely hidden drive train
see-through clearance under boiler
precision, 5-pole skew wound can motor (with hardened carbon brushes)
numerous metal detail parts
finescale pilot
sprung center axle for superior tracking performance and electrical pickup
short-coupled tender with hand-tooled coal load

   

Nice to see the Moguls are going to be back on our shelves, but where's the DCC ready/fitted version everybody asked for?

Probably because the Flat car on its own is half the cost  - several firms make side slats as per the bachmann versions for a lot less and a real wood load will always look better than a cast resin version

The leaflet that came with the loco explains where to put the wires.
Look under the loco and you'll find the firebox bottom comes off ( loosen the 2 screws to make life easier) Underthat, you'll find the 2 sockets.
While you're at it just ease the cable entry of the firebox cover  a little to prevent strain on the wires.

I had the same problem with my Forneys and the Prodigy advance - in the end i bit the bullet and bought the Soundtraxx Booster - after that had no problems at all programming the address.
Seemed an expensive thing to have to buy, just to program a loco address - still it will come in handy for the next Tsunamis I buy.

Quote from: Cookie on July 07, 2007, 07:00:52 PM
Thanks to all of you for your input and feed back.  Bachmann, if I had a hat I would have to eat it.  I guess I just wasn't holdin' my mouth right because I finally was able to change the address of this decoder.  I really appreciate all of the guidance and I especailly want to thank Stan whose offer to talk me through this gave me incentive to try just one more time on my own.

Curt,
The 2 wire  connecter on the 2-8-0 are the pick-up feeds from the loco drivers to the the decoder.
I haven't got the loco to hand, but you'll be able to backtrack the headlamp feeders by unclipping the firebox cover and finding the 2 leads on the separated connectors ( towards the front of the loco under plastic caps ).
If you've got a meter, just pull the caps off and the wires will fall away ( they're not soldered, so make sure you mark which goes where - just in case!) Now meter between the board and the pins on the larger connecter.
regards
David(UK)

Quote from: Cookie on July 06, 2007, 12:09:56 PM
Harold,

Thanks for your reply.  I have toured many of your web pages in the past so I know you are a "doer" with some genuine expertise and you have my respect.  Perhaps you can answer my next question regarding this decoder installation.  Please keep in mind that this "idiot" has a little back cloud continually hovering over his head!

The decoder intall manual indicates that the lighting output voltage is "track voltage" and that I need to put a 1K ohm resistor in series with the LEDs.  In the Bachmann 2-8-0 the rear leads are a "no brainier"  However, the headlight leads are a question for the "idiot".  Are they they the two wires with the small connectors between the tender and the loco?  Or are they somewhere else?  Do I need to put a separate resistor in for each led or are they wired in series? 

So why not use the mat to form your contours, then use the foam to shake on top for color variations?

Here's part of the reply Dallas ( A fellow Railbaron ) sent when I asked him about updates....
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Hi Dave --

I'd like to know too! <chuckle>  It's continued to be busy with all the existing items, so I've been trying to take any free time I can to work on new designs and try to fill the pipeline with those.

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You'll have to wait for Dallas to update his site to see what's in the pipeline - you won't be disappointed!
( not that I'm biased you understand! )

As of 30 secs ago , the site was fully operational.
I think Dallas has been too busy churning out Mini-climax kits and a couple of new kits to get round to updating his site!

Change those 0-4-0 springs for Kadee freight truck springs - I did mine when the 0-4-0s first came out and haven't looked back since.