I just received a 4-6-0 spectrum steam loco in MD & PA and have a few questions about loose parts. I didn't get any real documentation telling me what they are or where they go. One is a plastic piece that looks lik maybe a cow catcher? It has 6 arms that extend upward-each with a short pin on the end. When I look at the front of the loco though, I only see 4 holes.
The other part comes in the bag with the chains for the tender. It looks like maybe a lantern of some sort, with 2 hooks that clip onto something- but where?
Any help is appreciated!

I've got 2 remote turnouts and 2 remote crossovers. Each crossover is wired together so they switch at the same time. Both turnouts and one of the crossovers is working flawlessly via the accessory terninals of a separate power pack (a standard DC Bachmann unit). My problem is that one half of the other crossover seems balky when asked to switch- and this occurs in only one direction. Sometimes it works, sometimes it does not repond at all, and sometimes it responds more slowly than it's "mate". The other half of the crossover works fine. I'd hate to have to pull up this crossover and replace it if there is any way to get the balking half to work as well as all of the others. I have already tried a different control box and examined the wiring. I have not found anything to help.
Any suggestion?

I know the topic has come up before about adding a sound decoder to a Bachmann DCC diesel, and the general concensus has been that it is difficult due to a lack of room in the A unit. What about adding sound to a FT-B unit and leaving the A unit alone? How much room is in a B unit? Has anyone done this, and if so- what parts were used?
Thanks

I'm wondering if there is a way to hook up both switches of a remote/non- dcc crossover so that one controller moves both? Can I simply splice both sets of wires together and connect to one controller?

Can anyone tell me why there seems to be two different types of control switches for Bachmann turnouts and crossovers? My crossovers have the larger "box" type switches, while the turnouts have a smaller, thinner switch. Is there a difference?

I've seen and heard alot about using pulleys and cables to build a layout that can be raised and lowered- to and from the ceiling but I cannot find any detailed plans on how to build one. Not being particularly well versed in engineering, I'm wondering if anyone has any plans or articles for doing this?
I would certainly appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction on this.

I've seen and heard alot about using pulleys and cables to build a layout that can be raised and lowered- to and from the ceiling but I cannot find any detailed plans on how to build one. Not being particularly well versed in engineering, I'm wondering if anyone has any plans or articles for doing this?
I would certainly appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction on this.

I've seen and heard alot about using pulleys and cables to build a layout that can be raised and lowered- to and from the ceiling but I cannot find any detailed plans on how to build one. Not being particularly well versed in engineering, I'm wondering if anyone has any plans or articles for doing this?
I would certainly appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction on this.

Does anyone know why Bachmann uses yellow headlights? To me, this looks very strange. Is it possible to change to a regular "white" light?

What do I have to do to send my noisy, 1 month old 2-8-0 loco back for replacement? I filled out the onlice service form and sent it in. Do I wait for instructions from Bachmann before sending it back?

This is going to be hard to describe, but I thought I'd reach out to see if anyone has had similar issues. I recently purchased one of these locos (which is also the first one I've had). I returned the 1st one because it ran noisy and I thought it was defective. It was exchanged for another new one that appears to have the same "problem". I can only describe the noise as an intermittent, short, grinding or buzzing noise that only seems to happen when running forward. It does not seem to be happening at any particular speed. I've looked it over to see if I could identify a loose part that might be vibrating but have found nothing. It is definately coming from the loco and not the tender.
Is this something that might just be a break- in thing, or am I having a bad string of defective locos? Or are steam locos just noisy like this by nature? I love having it on my set up, but I'm having thoughts of going back to the nice, quiet diesel.

Probably a very easy question for those in the know-Does the brake mechanism go in the front or the back of a coal hopper? How about the brake wheel on boxcars?

Can someone give me some examples of correct coal hoppers and/or coal cars for use with a steam loco? My particular layout is something of a transitional era as I have a 2-8-0 Consolidation pulling one train and a diesel passenger train. I am not really knowledgable about what cars go with what era trains so any help is appreciated. Does Bachmann make anything for this purpose?
Thanks

Sorry to revisit an old topic-
I'm fairly new to model railroading and I want to buy my first steam locomotive. With the price of DCC equipped locos, I don't want to buy something that will not work well with my 18" radius curves. I've been thru all of the previous posts and I'm still unsure. Can I get some rocommendations on which size Bachmann DCC equipped steam locos to consider?
Thanks for going thru the minimum size curve/loco size topic again...

Does anyone know why no one makes lighted cabooses in HO scale? It seems like all of the ones that are made are O scale. Seems to me that if Bachmann came out with a caboose with working marker lights, they'd sell a ton of them. Anyone know where one can be found (perferably Santa Fe)?

I've read about folks modifying E-Z track crossovers and switches with a file to smooth them out and make them more reliable. Can someone offer more detail as to exactly what areas of the track need to be modified? Mine seem to work ok for the most part, but I do get occassional derailments and they seem to be awfully noisy when the cars pass over them. The points seem to be fine from factory. They are too expensive to just start filing without asking for advice. Thanks for the help!

Does anyone know if there is a way to reduce the blinking of the lights in my track-powered passenger cars when crossing #6 crossover track sections (even when going straight through)? Would polarizing the frog as described in the instructions help?

Why doesn't Bachmann sell the books that are geared to E-Z track? I think there are 2 of them- "E-Z Model Railroads" and "Model Railroading Made E-Z". I have been trying to get copies but they are selling for outrageous prices (theres one on Amazon for $75!). Seems to me that Bachmann would want to promote their track system by making these available for reasonable prices.

Can someone tell if it is possible to turn the power off and on to a siding using EZ Command? If so, how is it done? I have some favorite old passenger cars that are lit, and I'd like to be able to turn the lights off when they are in the siding.

What gauge is the wire used on the red terminal wires and the green turnout wires from the factory? I need to splice in extensions.
Thanks