Very strange, as my 2-4-4-2 matches the performance of the 2-6-6-2 quite nicely. I still can't help but feel that running it on DC power is most of the problem. Not a knock on you, just the nature of the beast. With no way to bypass the DCC, at least easily, there is no way to check this.

Lights first: As programmed from the factory both lights are on, with the light in direction of travel at full bright and the other dimmed. Since I run DCC this is something I immediately changed as it is a diesel era lighting scheme.

As far as running quality I honestly don't know, as again, I run DCC. Unfortunately the 2-4-4-2 uses the new style board that doesn't have a plug to where you can bypass the DCC. Several solutions come to mind, but none are particularly easy or necessarily cheap. Removing the board and hardwiring would only be effective for motor control, as resistors for the LED lights are built in to the board.

How dedicated to DC control are you? A good quality DCC starter setup can be had for not a lot of money, and can essentially plug in to a properly wired DC layout. And most don't require a degree to operate.

Coupler height,and preference for, is one of the things that rears its ugly head often in On30 groups. Most agree to disagree and drop the subject.
Most times preference ends up based on prototype, if any, being modeled. Eastern profiles tender toward smaller and lower. The Rio Grande in particular went higher and larger, not least because of occasional hookups in the dual gauge areas.

Bachmann, and I would imagine BLI, locomotives are difficult at best to raise coupler height. Major surgery is usually required. My suggestion for your 268 would be to use an underset shank coupler to raise the head, and then put an extended knuckle on said coupler.

Interesting fact- Kadee #5 head couplers WILL mate with Kadee S/On3 couplers (803 etc)

I would replace the connectors with something a.little more durable. Several companies well wired six pin connectors that are much easier to use. As an alternative, when things reopen and Bachmann has their offices back up and running you could call them about a repair.

I dunno what it is about the 4-6-0, but I've had the same problem with mine. Haven't had it with any other tender loco, and I have ten of them now.

Start by removing the pilot with one screw under the lead truck, and the smokebox braces. The boiler shell is press fit, with clips under the smokebox and at the rear of the Firefox. Careefully pry the s out starting at the front. The futon mine was very snug, so don't expect a sudden release. Once apart You will then have to take part the chassis. There is a parts diagram in the parts and service section of the main Bmann site.

Fun with electronics...
I would recommend a big hammer, but that might be a bit extreme.

The Bachmann item does NOT include a speaker. It is meant to plug into a fully equipped loco.

Quote from: p51 on January 31, 2019, 02:05:57 PM

I have wondered that, as well. Has On30 cooled down due to the lack of the stuff we used to find easily (and affordably), now made tough to find at high prices in a secondary market?
I wish I knew the answer...

2008 hit the hobby markets hard. Judging from the On30 FB groups I am a part of, there is still a lot of interest. In my case, it's the larger size without a significantly larger footprint. What didn't help was the passing of the "Father" of On30 at Bachmann. Without his constant kick the internal support has dwindled. Not gone, but seriously ill. Finally, the fact that inexpensive means China, and with current events...well, it got more expensive even for new.

On30 will never be HO, but it will live on, just as the MRR hobby will. Lots of kits, and "aftermarket".

What does the box say? Does it say DCC Sound? Or Sound ready? The old rule of thumb was green box, no sound. Gold box, sound.
Pop off the coal load on the tender and look inside. Is there a speaker?

It is a 3mm flat top yellow LED. T1 in shops that use official terms. My preference, I would get warm white as a replacement. I've seen an LED listed in the Connie parts section, but currently it is sold out.

Honestly, the conversion to DCC, for me, was painless, but I don't currently have a layout. Wiring isn't much different, the exceptions being turnouts, and the ability to put in wyes or reversing loops with a simple 2-wire hookup to a piece of electronic gear is heavenly. There are several good starter systems in the $200 USD range, I'll leave brands out of the discussion. I use what I use, others may be different.

As for the OP, I don't know much about the Loco Genie, or how it operates. Be aware, when Bachmann says "DCC on board" they do not include sound. Even "sound ready" needs extra parts. Unless it says "sound equipped", and before now came in a gold box, the loco needs further modification to make train noises.

A quick point-the sound decoders for both Porters share the same product photo. 'Nuf said there. Also, in the parts diagrams for both Porters, the wiring is shown the same. and the only difference in the part #s is the loco code. Board number is the same. Soundtraxx could probably clarify for you, but both they and Bmann follow patterns, which with a little research can be easily followed.
Proceed with some caution. The article mentions mis-identified polarity.
Personally, I'd throw in a Loksound micro, but I'm not personally enamored with Soundtraxx right now.

Since we're wishing for re-issues, how about the 2-8-0, hopper cars, and side door caboose.

A possibility is one of the wires in one of the plugs between tender and loco is loose. The 2 pin is track power, four pin is motor and front headlight. All sound is in the tender, so that would continue...

If you only run DC, your best bet is to remove the decoder entirely. You will have more and better control over the loco. Unfortunately the Porter is so small that the factory decoder is hardwired, and thus surgery is needed. Most other locos you would just unplug and install a jumper. Bachmann does have a wiring diagram for the Porter, showing what wire is what, if you feel able to take on that task, https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/On30%200-4-2%20Porter_Both%20DCC-%20and%20DCC%20Sound-Equpped.pdf. Or, now that I have finally run it, I find that DCC makes for a much more pleasant setup and run with my trains, and can be very easy to install.