Very interesting Kevin.  i thought i remembered reading that the only 2-6-2's ever built for a narrow gauge RR were those of the 2 foot gauge found in Maine and some for foreign shores.  An American prototye 2-6-2.....maybe it could be an inspiration for a Large scale model?

Thanks Kevin
   Having already done the search, i knew that little info would be found.  i was wondering what inspired the EBT to go from the little 2-8-0s to the pretty big 2-8-2 (even #12 appeared quite a bit bigger).

i know that EBT is known for her beautiful 2-8-2's.  But i also understand that there were 2-8-0 and 4-6-0s in her history as well.   Could someone tell me where i might find pictures of these engines.   i have never seen any.
  thanks.
bob

....and maybe one more....

think i am gonna give this a try!.
   Thanks to all involved that had the patience to describe how to do this....hope it works!

Just saw the advertisement for the brass Mike from RY in GARDEN RAILWAYS.  The minimun turn for the enigine is 8 feet RAIDUS (redundent but... 16 feet DIAMETER)!  i think Accuraft manages to sneek in 8 foot DIAMETER. 

If Bachmann does release a 2-8-2, any thoughts as to the mininun turn needed?   Does Bachmann have a "goal" that it would like to achieve in this department? 

The engine being released is #14.  If #12 was released, is it a bit smaller so that it could get away with a smaller radii/diameter?

Ok....thanks for the info and the formula.
bob

Using Hunt's formula from the "general discussion" area, i clock my 38 ton Shay to see at what speed she is running, when i feel she is running at a "good" speed or a specific voltage.

These are things i am taking for granted when i ask my final question.
    1.  all Bachmann 38 ton Shays run basically the same at the same
        voltage
    2.  my volt meter works  (it is OLD) and a swing needle thing.
    3.  the length of the train won't affect the speed toooo much at a voltage
         once the motion is underway.
   
That being said, at approx. 10 volts, my shay ran a distance of five feet in 9.91 seconds.  IF i use the formual correctly, i get something like 6.9 miles per hour.

To me, it looks like it is MOVING faster than that speed.  But does this sound approximately correct or are there major mistakes on my part?

Thanks for your help.
bob
   

TOC,
After removing the side rods from the third set of drivers,  i lifted the journals and wheels/axles out of the chassis (there is a "bunch" electrical stuff there!) and rotated the journals 180 degrees without detaching electrial contacts.  Put the unit back in the chassis and reinstalled cover plate and side rods  (Probably not in accordance with your directions completely) but it works!  Center driver does not drop below rail head and engine operates well.
   Thanks for your help!!!
bob

TOC,
  i pulled the bottom plate off the Mogul.   

1.  The electrical wires for the motor run to the journals for pick up i think.  Do these wires need to be de-soldered before doing any work on the #3 driver?

2. i am not sure if i comprehend your procedure correctly.  Do the journals, wheels have to be removed from the axle to complete operation?

That is as far as i have got up to this point.
   thanks
bob

TOC,
Thanks for taking the time to send the "fix" for the mogul.  It is going to take some time to sort through your directions...with the engine in front of me  for sure, before i get the "courage" to try to solve the problem.  But i will give it a try or a least a very serious look; but pulling wheels and correct quartering of the parts make me very nervous.

Do you have any idea if they were all incorrectly assembled this way, or was it just a few?  If i get the thing apart, and get her back together, can she be sent to Bachmann service for proper assembly?

Thanks again for your help.
bob

Hi,
  Just purchased this engine (Cent. Mogul) last week.   Gave it a try and found that it was a beautiful performer...except--it really doesn't like LGB swithches.
   Behind the center wheel on each side of the engine, there are posts which extend down inside the rails to guide these center drive wheels and keep them aligned with the track so they do not drop down below the railhead.
   These posts seem to hang up on the LGB frog.  Logical that they be removed if this happens.  Which i did do.  But when i did remove the guides, the center wheel does indeed fall below the rail head once in a while (i use LGB 16000 curves and equivalent swithches--layout in my basement) and bind.
  A closer look at the guides revealed they were actually composed of a collar with a pin through it and then connected to the support structure.  If  the collar is removed and the pins inserted from the top instead of the bottom of the support, then engine does seem to operate a bit smoother through the swithches.  But still not as nice as Connie or Annie.  (Am i making any sense here??)
  i know i read of people experiencing this, on the old form, but never paid attention to it, since i never thought i would purchase this engine. 
  Wondering if others found solutions for a smooth performance through the LGB switches.
   Thanks
bob

.....very clearly explained.  even i can understand that!!
   Thanks!
bob
   

Thanks for the alert.
   i have purchased several of these cars and found one screw at the bottom of the packaging.   i was not able to find an "empty" whole for it.  Would it be possible to give the # of the screw from the exploded parts diagram that comes with the cars so i know exactly what to look for.  (sorry, for being a bit "thick")   Perhaps it was just dropped in my packaging?
  Thanks for your time.
bob