Jack,

The issue is that the Bachmann plan is for a Russian Decapod (2-10-0) which s a relatively small locomotive, the Minitrix 2-10-0 is a large locomotive.

There is a definite need for the Russian in N scale (like I need a couple for my short-line, the Cumberland & Pennsylvania Railroad, where the Western Maryland Decapods ran at the end of the C&P right before the C&P's demise.

Thanks for bumping the post up!
Charles

Perhaps an expanded spare parts department could be be an enhancement Bachmann can provide in the future?
Charles

Mf5117,

As to why you specifically get 24.6 V AC on your meter I would need to do some research as to what the square-wave like DCC AC signal does to a conventional multimeter set to read AC (or one of the other guys can chime in).  But generally in my distant past experience when I recall, a multimeter expects a sine wave for an AC signal as in wall power, not a square wave as in DCC.  Unless you are using the "DC loco on address 0" there should not be any particular amount of DC voltage on the rails.

Charles

Herc driver,

For normal operation the DCC power pack only sends commands and has no idea if the commands have been received by the addressed DCC decoder, the commands are sent repeatedly.  I took a quick look at reading CV's and what might be the issue of needing an additional load on the track for reading CV's.  But that will have to wait for another day.  Unless you get a reply from some of the other guys.

Charles

Some of these might help, but no photo, maybe the Bach Man can add some info:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=1674
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=1675
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=1676

Have fun,
Charles

Old Jedi,

I see it looks like you updated your diagram, looks good.

Joe,

Thanks for the clarification, you have a lot of patience with character graphics.  Maybe you could move the gaps on the right hand side of the loop in to be adjacent to the crossing?  This would even out the available length for trains being the half circle and half the crossing length for either side of the loops.

Great stuff,
Charles

Good stuff!  Thanks for letting me know how it came out!  The upside down is one of the things I tend to do too!
Charles

Joe,

My brain is not working completely right, I am having a little difficulty picturing your suggestion.  Does it require removing a couple turnouts?

Old Jedi,

If you keep things like they are, I would make one change.  Change the upper center blueish turnout to a pinkish turnout.  That way activity on the pinkish loop to the outer loop would not interfere with activity on the blueish loop and inner X tracks.

Have fun,
Charles

I think I would try spray adhesive.
Charles

Chai,

You may want to disconnect the tender from the engine; holding the loco upside down, you carefully turn the tender 90 deg to the engine, and carefully move the draw-bar up off the pin on the engine.  And work on a slightly padded surface to protect the loco details.

If coupler clip is like mine the end of the clip toward the front of the engine has the little legs with the tabs on them.  To get it out, I carefully pushed on the leg near the floor of the tender to help unhook the tab and rocked the clip out carefully watching where the spring might go.  I used some fine tweezers that are bent on the end to help grab things.

Putting it back in, I carefully picked up the spring with the tweezers and loaded it in the clip.  Then holding the clip to keep the spring loaded, I carefully squeezed the coupler between the end of the spring and the clip slot (where the coupler shaft goes).  This held things in place, but it is easy to spring this assembly apart so be careful.  I handled this assembly only by the clip and used my tweezers to start one leg back in its slot, and rocked the other leg into its slot.  Then I carefully poked at the clip to be sure it was completely seated, and fiddled with the coupler to make sure it was moving properly without binding, or the clip working loose.

Then I patted myself on the back for not losing the spring.

When reconnecting the tender, use the same 90 deg alignment as disconnecting the tender.  Watch the two wires on the draw-bar.  Be sure they go one on each side of the pin on the engine.  Note the pin is split, do not let any of the wires go in the split in the pin.  If the wires on the draw-bar are located wrong expect shorts and a loco that will not run well.

Have fun carefully!
Charles

Some Bachmann Heavyweights to go with my Jackson Sharp open coach would be great!  They will go well with Ten Wheelers and Pacifics!

Ever Hopeful (and grateful for the great steam we have now),
Charles

If it is like the 2-8-0 or the 4-8-2 Lt Mountain:

The coupler and spring are held on by a small plastic clip.  Get set up where flying parts can be contained and found.  Carefully work at the clip pulling it off.  Replace the coupler and spring and reattach getting the tabs of the clip inserted in the holes so the tabs hold all in place.  I will see if I can post a copy of the diagram from my 4-8-2's diagram.  If you have the documentation that came with your loco, you may already have your own diagram.

Hope this helps!
Charles

Yes, more old style US streetcars!  The two axle type etc.  The Brill Bachmann has now needs some more friends!
Charles

It would be best to use two different colors, otherwise you need to apply some kind of marking on one wire before you install it so you can tell the two wires apart.
Charles

Hey, what about 1/160!  Nice craftsmanship!
Charles