I think that the one in the middle here is LGB, the rest are Bachmann

Quote from: zubi on January 28, 2008, 11:17:58 AM

Quote from: CCSII on January 27, 2008, 03:13:55 PM
Check out these pictures to see the difference:
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/17/tpage/1/view/Topic/postid/5851/Default.aspx

Funny to see that the LGB coach is actually taller than Accucraft... http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/chuckn/LGB-AC1640.jpg
It is much shortened though (artificially). Hopefully they will come up with the correct length version soon! (Barry Bogs prepared the prototypes for them.) http://www.frolin.net/cwrr/pictures/20070125/index.html
I wonder how Bachmann coaches would compare but I believe they are smaller/less high than LGB. Best wishes from Tokyo, Zubi

I must be missing something.   In the first picture you reference, the Accucraft Coach is clearly taller than the LGB - not the other way around as you suggest.   

My light inspection cars were great for summer cruising, but the crew really wanted something a little warmer for the cold weather and those rainy days.   

Inspired by the East Broad Top M-3 motorcar, I set off to build an enclosed motor car.

I started with the Bachmann rail truck, and just cut away everything that looked like it didn't belong.   


Then I built up a body out of styrene, and now I have my interpretation of the M-3.

I encourage everyone to read the post at http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48900

Also, please read about the proposed socket at http://www.tttrains.com/largescale/Topic%200707092%20Large%20Scale%20Plug-socket.pdf

I am deeply disturbed that a socket has already been designed.  Not that I'm against sockets, but Stan has recently stated that that he is still gathering requirements.   I'm not sure how many of you are involved in project planning or design, but I have NEVER heard of someone coming up with a successful design before the requirements are defined.

This is just bizarre.

Quote from: Jim Banner on October 28, 2007, 12:19:39 AM
I think a suitable socket is a great idea.  Pull out a dummy plug, plug in your radio receiver (brand of your choice) or decoder (brand of your choice) and sound card (brand of your choice).  If you want to run on batteries, plug them in too.  No more having to spend hours figuring out the wiring for every different locomotive or having to spend hundreds of dollars to have it done for you.  Anybody with the skills to open up a locomotive for routine lubrication will be able to install their own sound, radio, DCC, on-board power, or what have you. 

Where will you get these magic plug-in products?  Once there is a standard socket, everyone who wants to sell products for large scale will get on board, either by modifying their products to fit the standard socket or by producing an optional wiring harness that includes a standard plug.

For those who never want to add the goodies, the added cost will be just the cost of a socket and a dummy plug, probably a buck each in quantity.  For those who want to go radio, they will not have to pay for unwanted DCC items because the DCC people will be able to pop them in by themselves, taking away any motivation for manufacturers to pre install them.   Same goes in reverse for DCC people who do not want radio.

For die hards who cannot imagine a life without screw terminals, or who want to reuse older radios/decoders/sound boards that do not have standard plugs, I am sure someone will produce an adapter card with screw terminals on one side and a standard plug on the other side, or at least a standard plug with long wires which will let you do as you wish.

Please note that I am taking about a suitable standard socket.   I have no idea whether the socket under "secret discussion" will be suitable for large scale or not.  Because of current requirements in large scale versus space availability in the small scales, I feel that one standard socket that covers all the connections in all the scales is not very likely.  That does not, however, preclude using a tiny standard plug in all scales plus a larger four pin plug that is required only in the larger scales to carry the heavier pickup and motor currents.  I for one will be looking forward to seeing what Ames and company come up with.  If it turns out to be suitable for large scale, I believe we will see a gigantic leap forward for all of us.  But if, as many doom sayers are saying, it is not suitable for large scale, then I see chaos continuing for years to come, whether Bachmann or any other manufacturer decides to use it or not.  As one who basically guts locomotives then rewires them when installing radio, DCC, sound, or special effects, I believe an unsuitable socket will be just one more thing that has to be cut out, torn out, and tossed out.

A socket sounds pretty nifty when described that way.

How will you connect your speakers?   Or do I now have to buy a specific speaker with plugs already attached?  

If I am a DC user and just want sound, where do I plug in my sound card battery?

How do I PLUG IN the batteries?    Most battery packs have two wires coming from them - where do they go in this socket???

How do I charge those batteries?  Does the super socket help me there?  

How about an on/off switch?   Do I have to open up the tender to turn on the power?

You talk about an optional wiring harness with a standard plug - what standard plug should a vendor use?    How does a sound card vendor co-exist with an RC card?  

If this socket isn't working correctly, what are the trouble-shooting procedures?  

There's just a LOT that doesn't seem to have been thought out.

On the other hand, if I have a standard screw terminal, it won't take you hours to figure out that #1 and #2 are your power terminals.

Sierra and Phoenix just came out with some new products - now we're going to ask them to redesign everything?   And stock new and old so they can sell upgrades for locomotives that don't have sockets?   Do you think this will make the products cheaper, or more expensive?

And for the diehards who only wanted screw terminals, they get an adapter card with screw terminals on one side and a standard plug on the other side for some outrageous price - and now find they don't have room in the tender for all this plus the sound card, batteries and RC gear.  

Do you mean it's NOT prototypical to lift up one end of the car to uncouple? 

The Bachmann Anniversary Edition 10 wheeler  was the first locomotive that I bought for the Jackson & Burke Railroad (http://www.jbrr.com/).  While I liked it a lot, after awhile, it never fit in with my 1:20 roster.

Earlier, I had upscaled a 10 wheeler to 1:20, and I didn't want to do the same thing again:


I decided to make the 10 wheeler into a 1:20 Mogul.   I had it out on the layout today for some pictures.    I'm very pleased with how it turned out, and it runs just great!

Spring has come and gone.   Summer is almost over.

Any more results?

Has anyone seen these advertised anywhere?  I'm looking to see how much I need to save to meet the street price...

I dislike the soft metal ones myself.

You could get a set of brass ones from Phil's Narrowgauge.


I find that the brass ones hold up much better than the white metal.   Another alternative is get some brass strip and bend your own.

You might take a look at the "One Step Critter Control" http://gold.mylargescale.com/DelTapparo/Electronics.htm

Looks like you're off to a good start, Stan.

I did notice that when I click on the small picture of the FCC boxcar I get a close up of the SP car.   Clicking on the full view of the SP car does NOT give a larger picture.

I hope they do make some more cars.   

I also use the spray cans.   This one was painted with Krylon Ruddy Brown.


This one was done with Rustoleum primer, and is just a bit of a different shade.


I start by painting the car upside down, so I get the underside covered, and make sure I get under the eaves and any other places that would be hard to paint when it's right side up.

I turn it over and spray several thin coats - mostly to get paint in the scribing lines on the sides, but also to make sure that everything is nice and smooth.

I always cover the couplers with tape, as I don't want them the same color as the car.   It also gives me a "handle" to grab onto when I'm painting, or before it's fully dry.   I'll give it a good look before the final coat, just to make sure I haven't missed any areas.

When done, I use a brush to add any other colors;  I use Tarnished Black for the grab irons and trucks.   The wheels get a coat of Rail Brown, except on the treads.

Are you sure?   I clicked on this several times and it did not change the count.   Yes...I did a refresh. 

Of course, I'm not sure it really matters 

I suspect that the new Spectrum wheels are different.   They come with solid metal axles and have a smaller flange than the ones that came on my old Bachmann caboose.    They seem to roll quite smooth and reliable.

I'd love to have these sold separately for my scratchbuilding efforts.