I assume that to build under layout piano wire throw rods for turnouts, the hole in the layout surface has to be big enough for the wire to move the entire distance to throw the points. What is a recommended switch to attach to the other end of the rod?
Gene
Gene;
I have seen several of these set-ups, and they work great. They use piano wire yes-but the wire is run in a tube or conduit if you will, of some kind of nylon, poly, etc about a comfortable diameter for the wire to move back and fro. This conduit is secured at intervals by straps to prevent excessive shifting of the tube, which would defeat the purpose of the assembly.
what I have seen used for a switch is simple slide switches, the configuration is whatever you need, but probably go with a DPDT; cheaper, and it will still work.
I'd like to hear other variations on the same theme.
RIch
Quote from: r.cprmier on October 01, 2007, 06:27:27 PM
Gene;
I have seen several of these set-ups, and they work great. They use piano wire yes-but the wire is run in a tube or conduit if you will, of some kind of nylon, poly, etc about a comfortable diameter for the wire to move back and fro. This conduit is secured at intervals by straps to prevent excessive shifting of the tube, which would defeat the purpose of the assembly.
what I have seen used for a switch is simple slide switches, the configuration is whatever you need, but probably go with a DPDT; cheaper, and it will still work.
I'd like to hear other variations on the same theme.
RIch
The conduit is r/c aircraft (and boat) pushrods, meant to connect the servos to the rudder, throttle, etc. you screw a piece of threaded rod into each end , then there are all sorts of fittings that you can use to hook the rods to levers, bellcranks, etc. IIRC, they are available up to 48" long, but I don't see why you couldn't hook two together for longer runs.
Mike
You do not need to cut a hole in the layout. You can do as Rich said. You can run this on
top of the layout and just cover it up. This wire can even run under another track. Mike I also got some of those to try. I think they will work great and no worry about a short.
By all means use DPDT slide switches. One half can be used to switch the frog of power routing all metal turnouts and the other half can be used with red/green diodes to show which way the turnout is set.
I'm using Atlas code 100 #6 turnouts. I've bent the wire at the end into an "L<" but it keeps slidding out. I'll check into using boat/airplane pushrods and attachments. I know about using some form of tube to keep the wire straight. There should be some MR article on this, somewhere.
Gene
Quote from: SteamGene on October 02, 2007, 08:55:05 AM
I'm using Atlas code 100 #6 turnouts. I've bent the wire at the end into an "L<" but it keeps slidding out. I'll check into using boat/airplane pushrods and attachments. I know about using some form of tube to keep the wire straight. There should be some MR article on this, somewhere.
Gene
Using just piano wire limits you a bit, but I would suggest looking into using a "Z" bend at the turnout end. It won't slip out of the throwbar. If you don't know what that is, the guy in the R/C section can help you. They also make a "Z" bending tool that makes neat and consistent bends; ~$10 when I bought mine.
If you use the airplane pushrods, you have a bunch of clevises, etc available to play with. This is probably the stuff that you've been seeing pictures of. It comes in several different diameters and can be easily cut to length with a sharp blade.
Mike
Actually, the biggest difficulty right now is finding DPDT sliding switches!
Gene
ctually, the biggest difficulty right now is finding DPDT sliding switches!
Check with John at Demar Electric
demarelectric.com
Rich
errata:
Gene; try calling them at 877-655-6433.
You might also try Greenway, Radio Shack, etc.
Rich.
or Mouser Electronics, tons of electronics, and they send you their catalog after you order.
- http://www.mouser.com/
Charles
The wire tubing used to hang up net curtains is excellent as a cheap conduit for the operating wire. I presume it is the same product in the US as in UK. Another tip is to bend an omega shaped loop into the operating wire to handle any tolerance issues.
Paul
At one time people used automotive manual choke cables to through switches. These are still available for small engines like lawn mowers and the like.
Gene,
I use DPDT slide switches for all my manual trunouts. I don't know where Rich shops, but I have no problem getting them.
My prefered switch is Radio Shack #275-407 - submini slide switch.
I mount mine on the layout surface, recessed in the roadbed, drill a hole in the handle, and bend a "Z" shaped wire to connect it to the turnout. They operate well with a small srewdriver, a dowel with the end hollowed out or with your hand.
I use the contacts for power routing and signaling.
They may not look real prototypical, but they are small and unabtrusive, providing both mechanical and electrical functions. I developed this because I wanted the electrical contacts, I wanted a ground throw that would fit between 2" track centers and could be thrown with the same tool used for manual uncoupling.
I can send you a drawing of my installation details if you are interested.
Sheldon
I was about to check Radio Shack today. Thanks.
Gene
Quote from: ASIANLIFE on October 03, 2007, 12:47:52 AM
Another tip is to bend an omega shaped loop into the operating wire to handle any tolerance issues.
Paul
That's an
extremely good tip. Great way to compensate for overtravel and provide positive contact at the same time.
I've come up with at least a temporary solution. I've bent the wire at the layout edge to 1600 mils (90 degrees) and slipped a 1.5" piece of 3/32" plastic pipe over it, held with a spot of hick super glue. I'm painted a small white strip to indicate turnout position for the straight and red for the diverging.
It's not the finest looking affair right now, but it protects grandchildrens' eyes for right now.
Gene
Sheldon;
I never inferred or implied that DPDT switches were hard to get-they are as common as dirt. As a contractor, I get most of my run-of-the-mill electrical/electronic components from supply houses. Radio Shack is retail and a bit too pricey for my tastes. Some of the best prices are from DeMar, and as was mentioned, Mouser.
Those slide switches can be mounted under the roadbed system, the mounting system, as well as desired circuiting, can be any of several ways that I can think of, they need not neccessarily be in sight.
Rich
Rich,
Sorry, I guess I read that part of thread to fast to catch your meaning the first time around.
I mount mine right next to the switch like a switch stand because I like the simple association of what switch controls what turnout. Never did like the pull knob on the facia thing.
I use manual turnouts for all locations that would be manual on the prototype. Including a fairly large yard with ladders branching off the lead in both directions to feed eight tracks. That would create such a cluster of little knobs to pull with no easy way to associate them. The yard is right at the benchwork edge and the benchwork is only 34" high so reaching them is easy.
My mainline turnouts are powered with tortoise machines and flip flop push buttons. These turnouts are controled from local tower panels and a main CTC panel. LED's at both locations show the position, pushing the one button changes it to the oposite position.
Sheldon
I've mounted one of the Radio Shack switches. The turnout it controls is right on the edge of the layout, on a corner, and it just seemed the most practical approach, and gave practice in mounting. I agree they are a bit pricey, but I may order from one of the mail orders you guys suggested and convert the rest. Still, I sort of like my jury rig system. It works fine and is visible, yet not obtrusive, either.