Say what you will about EZ track but it works. I put track on my new cookie cut 8x12 bench and it works better than expected. 4 levels with too steep of inclines. 95% black cheap trak with a few gray pcs. Had to use a little flex & atlas turnouts to make passing sidings. I was carefull to "bend" the plywood especially where there are turnouts to make sure turnout section is flat and any inclines start right after.

I'm impresssed with the Bachmann track. I gave up on this sport when I was a kid because I could never get the track to stay together.

I try to buy some stuff at local shops but the prices are crazy. Had to pay $4 more to turn Right instead of Left (turnouts) because of price changes and the way shelves stocked. Asked if I could maybe pay a little less since buying over $100. Of coarse not.

Its hard to justify when I can pay WAY less online + no sales tax (9%)

Is it the same elsewhere? Should I feel bad about buying online?

I guess I kind of get the same feeling as I would at H Depot. If the prices are high and they don't exactly offer great service then why shouldn't I buy from some strangers in NY who charge reasonable and ship order correctly and on time.

Just curious what others think.

I thought I could simply grab some roadbed at local shop but its too thin (3/16?). Is there a certain type that works best for Atlas "Patches" between  E Z track and where do you buy it online?

ALSO - I know this will be sacrelage but has anyone ever tried screws (maybe tiny sq. drives) to anchor track? I'm not that concerned with how it looks just can't see pounding nails in bouncy plywood.

I just started attaching risers on a 8x 12 layout (ez track). I had this 3 level layout working on my floor and the grades were held at each track joint with piers, toy blocks, drinking cups etc. Anyway - I transfered all the track onto plywood and carefully traced to cut out 3" wide cookie cuts. (I also traced the actual pcs. of track so it would be easy to put back together)
Now that I am putting it back together it doesn't allways line up. Does tilting the plywood change the distances enough so it doesn't line up? Its not alot but with only 1/2" "play" on either side even a 1" difference puts the track off the plywood.

Is it just me? Is it slight variations in the EZ trk pcs? Does tracing it on the flat change a whole bunch in a 3" elevation over 8-10'? I guess I will be getting proficient at making 1" & 2" Atlas "corrections. No big deal I just wonder what I did wrong if anything. 

1 More?. I ran my 1 st level at top speed and it was amazing how well it worked even with a few really crappy joints and stuff. It seems like it might not be that hard to "tweak" the roadbed ply so that curves are "banked". Is that something you would normally do? Would you bend the plywood OR would you shim the ez trk pcs. Whats easiest/best? All my curves are 22' & 18' radius.

Thanks anyone for suggestions.

Sorry - even after reading 20 posts about this I am confused as to wich Atlas turnout would "directly replace" the Std. Remote E-Z track turnout #44461 or 44462. Also - is the Std E-Z turnout considered a #4?
I'd like to buy 2 Atlas turnouts so I can compare B4 buying a bunch of one or the other. Black, Gray or NO roadbed - doesn't bother me to mix black & gray.
BONUS stupid question!? - Most of the time trains can blow thru a turnout even if its not in the right direction. Assuming run trains in 1 direction only do any of you loosen the mechanism so that the Loco can bash the moving turnout part in the direction it wants to go? Yes - I'm a major cheapsakate.
Thanks.

What is easiest bridge to use since Bach. doesn't make one? Read an old post about modifying an Atlas by prying & proding but then several folks made it sound like you could just connect it w/o modification?
I need above track types since I am going for absolute minimum clearance (3").
Ever tried cutting away edges Bach. roadbed? Would only loose 1/4" but might be good enough for hidden areas.
How could they NOT make money on a 9" bridge section?

I thought it would be easier to add a couple passing sidings around some 18" curves using Std. 22" EZ Track curves. Even after buying some extra "Gray" 1/3 curves and 3" straits it aint so simple. Is there any diagrams available? Such as can you use 2 Std. turnouts to create a 22" siding around an 18" 1/2 circle? Some diagrams of what "shorty" pcs. are needed to make the 2 "branches" of a Std. Turnout become parallel (as in 2 strait siding tracks) etc etc would be very helpfull. I attached 2 pcs. of 1/3 18" curve to a 30' crossing and that brings it parralell to a strait section on other side of the crossing BUT they are 6" apart instead of the 4" I need for proper 18" & 22" curves to be next to each other. (Hope that made sense) I am surprised that they don't make any 1/3 pc. of a 22" Radius Std. curve section - am I wrong? . Does the Bachmann EZ Layout book go into that much detail? I don't care about mixing black & gray track & tight radius.
Sorry for so many questions & improper lingo. I am trying to make a fairly simple (I thought) sort of folded dogbone layout 6x10' . I'd like to have the base level and the 2nd level have "independant" double track loops so that a train could run on each of 3 levels in a loop that it could only "escape" from by switching over to the inside loop in order to continue to next level.
Maybe this can't be done w/o flex track but I'd sure like to try.
Thanks anyone!