Checked a lot of track and wheels with gauge.  Everything good.  Steam is nolonger derailing.  Wondering if it might have had something to do with cleaning? 

I am using ez-track.
I have all 3 radius 48" and down.
They derail straight and curved; no higher incidence for either.
I have 2-8-2 DCC steam and a Penns diesel 4x4.
the 2-8-2 only runs on the 48" radius.
These have been set up since last year.  Last year I had to de-railing what so ever.  The only difference is I cleaned it and did not press heavily to bend rail joiners.  All joiners are on and straight.  No track is bent nor rising.  Everything is flat.

So I went out and got a tidy track and tidy wheel cleaner.  Last year I had no problem with keeping my engines and cars on the rails.  All of the sudden 2 of my trains engines keep derailing and not always in the same place.  It could past that spot 3x or on the first time and then derail.  I checked all of my connections between sections and no issues.  Got re-railers every 6' which do not help and are sometimes the point of derailing. 

On a separate issue my trains also just suddenly stop and a very light finger push will start them again (DC & DCC).

I always get great answers here and would like to thank you all for your support up front.  Because sometimes I get so involved with your answers and fixes I forget to write back right away (apologies). :-)

I hope I can help.
Turn the switch over and you will see brass strips running from the straight track to the turn off track.  There are 2 strips, one for each track.  What happens is that some how they lose connectivity to one rail or the other or possibly even both.
I personally tried to resolder from the bottom with NO success.
I ended up running jumper wires from each rail to the other from straight to turn out.
Just remember to solder jumpers on outside of rail
Hope this helps.

Not sure where you're talking about.  Can you do a print with arrows?

trainman203
the point I'm trying to make is poor QC (maybe none) on Bachmann's part
And the fact is there is a ton of cut offs out there with this same problem
Don't get me wrong.  I have a ton of Bachmann stuff.
But, they should be monitoring this stuff and remedy the easy things to make them look that much better.

I used a multimeter  (amps. ohms, etc).  It all lead to the same thing.  There is no continuity between the ends, straight thru or turning off.  Trying to make things soldered beneath is a waste of time.  I had to add wires to the outside of the track of electric to go to turnoffs.  I think they know it's a production problem and to expensive to fix.   Don't add to inside of track, wheeels....

I wish it was as easy as a reversing loop.  Unfortunately it isn't.  I know this for 2 reasons.  If it was a dead short, my controllers would also short out.  The second reason is my volt meter.  The only time I have different current on the same rail is when the engine that goes in reverse is on the turnout.

The locomotive reverse or stops.

All of the 0-6-0's I have (Bachmanns) have 1 screw under the cab.  the cab will lift up and you then have to pry the front sides out a little one side at a time to get the rest off.

I have several Bachmann smokers.  They all eventually broke.  Put new smoke units in them and they died as well.  Bachmann recommends 5-6 drops only in their units.
And heed the warnings; they are real.

I use the kaydee as well.  Rarely do I have them uncouple on any part of the track nor going thru turnouts. 
But I do use #6 turnouts.  I have longer engines and cars and the need the wider radius.
I also got a coupler gauge.  It sits on a piece of track and I place a car on it to make sure the coupler is the same height as the coupler gauge.
Until I tuned the coupler height and got the wider radius; I had uncoupling issues as well.  Still got all my dangly things to for uncoupling. 

So one is a Model Power 4-6-2 steam engine that puffs smoke.
The other is a Mantua Conrail Diesel engine.
Again NOT DCC but it is DC; if you put both engines facing the same way on same track, one will go backwards the other forwards.
Thanks again for your help.

BTW, I appreciate your answers, but can't find the like button.   

If I were to take these engines and put them both on the same track; one would go in reverse. 
This is a DC setup NOT a DCC.
I have seperate power to the turnout.  When I sent the engine to the main track it stops after going over the frog.
When I sent the train on the main track to the turn out It stops after going past the frog.
If I turn off power to either the main or the turnout and hand push the trains thru and reverse directions on both rails they go forward again without issue.
Or if I take a train off either the outside or turnout and make it so the direction is constant for which ever train, they go right thru the turnouts without issue.

It seems that different manufacturers give their engines different polarity.  Which makes it difficult with turnouts.  As it hits the new section of track on the turnout it of course reverses.
Other than switching wires on an engines polarity, is there another way to make it a continuous run without reversing?    
Thnx!!!