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Messages - Len

#3091
HO / Re: rails to use with a bridge
May 03, 2011, 06:09:20 AM
The 931-802 Bridge & Trestle kit is the same, except for the color plastic used, as the old Tyco Bridge & Trestle kit. I suspect Walthers ended up with the old Tyco tooling for this, and a few other pieces.

It's designed to work, and looks best, with code 100 sectional track pieces installed. Since EZ-Track uses code 100 rail, code 100 sectional track from the trestle should line right up with ground level EZ-Track if you leave out the end ramp, and possibly the first trestle.

Be aware these trestles were designed to be fastened down to a table top, not used free standing.
.
Len
#3092
Bill,

It is possible to modify these crossovers for DC operation. Changes have to be made to the connections underneath the crossover. David Harrison has an explanation of what needs to be done on his web page at: http://web.me.com/msibnsf/Acela_Express,_The_Need_For_Speed/Modeling_Techniques.html The instructions are way down towards the bottom of the page. You may need to copy the pictures and blow them up a bit, as they're a bit hard to see on the web page.

Bach-Man,

When is someone at Bachmann going to figure out they'll sell a lot more of these crossovers if they redesign them with removable jumpers to isolate the sides for DC operation?? Or, at the least, include instructions for modifying them in the box?

I've always wondered why whoever at Bachmann thought only people using DCC on their layouts would be interested in these crossovers?? Especially when, even now, DCC users are still in the minority of HO & N modelers.

Len
#3093
HO / Re: Marklin track
May 03, 2011, 05:37:44 AM
Trix makes replacement wheelsets, with an insulated wheel on one side, that allows Marklin rolling stock to operate on two rail track. Kadee NEM 362 couplers (#17 - #20) can be used to convert Marklin pieces with NEM coupler pockets to knuckle couplers.

It's also possible to modify Marklin C-track so, by adding a toggle switch, it can be changed between 2-rail DC or 3-rail AC operation.

Len
#3094
HO / Re: Beginning scenery ?
May 02, 2011, 12:50:44 AM
It's possible to dye plaster cloth. I thin down 'raw umber' or 'burnt sienna' acrylic paints into a slurry. I then slowly add this slurry to a 1/2 gallon jug of warm water until it takes on a hue I'm happy with. Then I pour the "dirt water" it into a stainless steel dry wallers "mud" pan, until it's about 2/3 full. Dip 12" - 18" long strips of plaster cloth in the mud pan to wet it per the plaster cloth instructions. The plaster cloth gets stained enough by the colored water to hide the occasional chip.

Len
#3095
HO / Re: Beginning scenery ?
May 01, 2011, 11:14:45 AM
There are lots of books out there on how to do scenery. Personally, I find the Woodland Scenics scenery "how to" book to be a very good source of information. It's less expensive them most of the others, and spiral bound so it lays flat when open. Unlike some of the magazine style books. Even though it's by Woodland Scenics, the techniques apply no matter who's material your using.

Watching videos to see how other people do things is also good. But it's hard to make notes in the margins of a DVD or YouTube video.

Len
#3096
General Discussion / Re: E-Z Mate DCC Decoder
April 28, 2011, 12:35:02 PM
The product description pages don't specify how many functions the EZ decoders have. Are they all 2-function like the one in the link above??

Len
#3097
HO / Re: random derailment
April 24, 2011, 07:00:34 PM
Did you add a new car to your rolling stock that's longer than the previously operated cars? If so, and the tunnel portal is on a curve, the over hang of the new car could be side swiping the tunnel portal.

That's one of the drawbacks to the Woodland Scenics "Layout in a Box" kits, they put single track tunnel portals on 18in radius curves. This really limits the length of the cars you can run unless you enlarge the portal opening, or replace them with double track portals.

Len
#3098
HO / Re: Track planner question - xcad
April 23, 2011, 10:44:02 AM
Quote from: timhar47 on April 21, 2011, 09:46:29 PM
I am finding that RR Track does not seem to be calibrated correctly, as the plan that is made in the PC doesnt seem to use the same track pieces IRL. Hence my misalligned curve.
Thanks - Tim

Check the "Join Error" setting under 'Options' on the 'Options' menu pull down. Sounds weird having 'Options' under 'Optioons', but it is. Any way, it needs to be set for something other than "0.0", unless you have perfectly manufactured and shaped track. I normally set it for "0.10" to allow a little fudge factor to track alignments and things generally work a bit better IRL.

Len
#3099
HO / Re: walthers SW-1
April 20, 2011, 01:28:33 PM
I have one of these acquired years ago. I replaced the tubing drive with universals out of the 'junk box', and added a TCS M1 decoder to it. I suspect you'll have to get some stiff wire and make your own handrails if they're missing. The bodies on these were reasonably close to scale, so the old AHM handrails (if you can find them) probably will not work.

Len
#3100
HO / Re: More on couplers
April 13, 2011, 07:56:06 AM
If your Bachmann cars use the medium center shank EZ-Mate coupler and you want metal couplers, you can use the Kadee #5 w/bronze centering sping, #148 "whisker" coupler, or #58 scale head "whisker" coupler. You may have to thin the coupler box lid a bit with sand paper if it's too tight a fit.

A fairly comprehensive list of recommendations for converting Bachmann locos and cars can be found at http://www.kadee.com/conv/hocc14.htm

Len
#3101
HO / Re: More on couplers
April 12, 2011, 10:34:53 AM
The shank on the #148, and other Kadee "whisker" couplers, is slightly thicker than the #5 to make up for the thickness of the missing bronze centering spring. I've trimmed down Kadee coupler box shims to fit the draft gear box to eliminate EZ-Mate droop due to the thinner coupler shank.

Len
#3102
HO / Re: More on couplers
April 11, 2011, 08:43:35 PM
Just an FYI regarding metal couplers. Kadee is phasing out the 40-series metal couplers that come with the bronze centering springs like the #5. They are being replaced with the 140-series metal "whisker' spring couplers, e.g., #46 is being replaced with the #146 whisker, #47 with #147 whisker, etc. The #148 is the "whisker" equivelent of the #5, but according to the Kadee website there are no plans to phase out the #5. It's too popular.

Len
#3103
HO / Re: Logging cars?
April 11, 2011, 11:47:03 AM
If you don't like the logs that come with a car, small 'dead fall' branches from area trees make a convincing load. Hit the ends with a course tooth razor saw to simulate the marks of a felling saw. Don't forget to angle one edge to simulate the undercut for controlling the direction of fall.

Len
#3104
HO / Re: Logging cars?
April 10, 2011, 04:56:42 PM
Kadee also has some nice log cars and associated hardware. They can be see at:

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Log%20Car.htm

Click the number to the left of the description to see pictures of each item. You could use the log bunks to turn a standard flat car in to a log hauler.

Len
#3105
HO / Re: EZ Mate Couplers
April 08, 2011, 10:51:40 AM
If you want to use EZ-Mate Mk-II's, or Kadee couplers, in your existing coupler boxes you can get the 'Talgo Adapters' that come in the 30 series couplers seperately. They are item #212.

Len