It should not hurt it. Look and see if there are already some holes in the ties for that. You might have to look underneath the ties to see a small hole or dimple to drill out.

Quote from: g-guage_trains on September 11, 2012, 12:58:11 PM
Remember------To start: 1 turn on the engine and 2 turn on the transmiter.
To stop: 1 turn off the transmitter and 2 turn off the engine
alanrr

Other way around. Transmitter then engine to start then engine and transmitter to stop. If you turn the engine on without the transmitter, it goes to default which is full throttle. It was designed that way so the engine wouldn't keep stalling if it didn't see the transmitter signal. Make sure the remote is centered at zero before turning on the engine or it will respond to whatever it is set at.

Does anyone have a list of the numbers used on the 4-6-0 number plates since R/C #7? I used to have a list but can't find it now.

Quote from: Loco Bill Canelos on December 13, 2011, 11:05:03 PM


I believe the locomotive must be turned on first then the transmitter.

That is all I have, maybe someone else has some additional info they could provide.

You have to turn on the transmitter then the engine. If you turn the engine on first it goes to default which is wide open throttle. 

Rats! I was afraid of that. Was hoping the boiler was complete like the LGB engine. Back to the drawing board.

Has anyone removed the tanks from the 2-6-6-2? I did it to a used LGB engine and got a few parts from LGB and made a non-tank version  (whole process was cheaper than buying the non-tank version). What I'm looking at is if there is any detail on the boiler behind the tanks (bands, piping, etc.) or do the details stop at the tanks?

Larry S.
S.O.N.G. RR

Bach-Man,

I don't know if this has been brought up before, but if it has, consider this a vote for it. Is there any chance that there could be a new Annie made to 1:20.3 scale and be made closer to its ET prototype? There seems to have been a big shift to western prototypes and 20.3 scale and the 10 wheeler seems to have been left behind. I would get rid of all of the 22.5 scale equipment I have if the 10 wheeler comes out in 20.3.

Larry S.
(returning after a several year absence)
Southern Ohio Narrow Gauge RR

Did Bachmann make a D&RGW stock car or a OR&W caboose? If not, are they likely to be made in the near future?

Larry S.
Southern Ohio Narrow Gauge RR

The N&W Ry had some oddly shaped barrels in company service. They were shaped like a wooden barrel, had standard bung holes on the top end and were 50 gallon capy. They were marked for the N&W on the top. They were arround like forever. Hardly ever see one now.

Larry S.
Southern Ohio Narrow Gauge RR

I mean it.

Larry S.
Southern Ohio Narrow Gauge RR
peerless@zoomnet.net

Add me to the list for the ET 10 wheeler.

Larry S

If anyone is looking to get rid of their unneeded underframes, I am in need of a BUNCH of underframes for some projects.

Larry S.
Southern Ohio Narrow Gauge RR
peerless@zoomnet.net

No, the SONG RR is now being built as a 12" gauge 4" scale Grand Scale railroad. I'm keeping the G scale and the On30 SONG RR for use at our annual winter train show.

Larry S.
Southern Ohio Narrow Gauge RR

I recently purchased two 2-6-0 engines. One is a D&RGW 'bumble bee' and the other an OR&W. The 'bee' has brake rigging rods attached to the brake cylinder links and all of the brake shoes. The OR&W does not have the brake rods on it. Was this a factory error? Where would I be able to get another set of the brake rigging rods?

Larry S.
Southern Ohio Narrow Gauge RR

As wide as possible. I used 10' radius with body mounted Bachmann couplers with good success. When body mounted, the couplers are at the height of the Annie front coupler. I made a coupler height jig to check each coupler as it was installed.

Larry S.
Southern Ohio Narrow Gauge RR