Awesome!!!!

Thanks for the update. Glad it worked!

Lizz,

The suspense is killing me. Did you get the loco(s) running again?

Lizz,
I just looked it up. The reset procedure is as I described earlier. Program track, program 8 into cv8. Remove locomotive from power for 30 seconds.
Hopefully, it will come back to life.
Loksound advertises that they have current overload and short protection built in. So hopefully it saved itself.

I jope this helps you.

Lizz,
According to the video link you provided, that locomotive has a loksound decoder made by ESU. Excellent decoder. I will look up reset procedures later when I can get to my computer.
Someone else may beat me to the answer though.
But chances are pretty good you just need to do a reset.

Sometimes, locomotive decoders get their brains scrambled in a short but not destroyed.  You might try a reset. The procedure to reset depends on the brand. But fairly common is to put the locomotive on the program track. Program cv8 = 8. Then after doing so, remove power ftom the locomotive for 30 seconds or so  by tipping one side of the locomotive up off the rails. Then after 30 seconds, put it back down on the rails. If the reset was successful, the locomotive should respond to address 3 which is the default address of new locomotives / decoders.  Then if it does respond, you can go about reprogramming it to your preferences.

Do you know the brand of decoders involved?

Hope that helps you.

If it was mine, I would open it up. I am betting a speaker wire has broken at a solder joint. Its possible the audio portion of the decoder is blown. But I would do a visual check anyway.

The PowerCab with control chip for version 1.65b is capable of running 6 locomotives at a time. That assumes newer generation locs with low current draw motors. If you are running some older open frame motors. It could be a lot less.
Don't go with just a single pair of wires hooked to the track. You will get too much voltage loss and lose performance and control. You need to run a power bus of heavier guage wire from the pcp panel. 12 guage is best, 14 is acceptable. Then drop short feeders  from your track to the bus evety 3 feet or so. Best practice is every piece of rail gets a feeder. Dont rely on track joiners as feeder drops unless you solder the joiners to the rails.
As was already pointed out, if you have any return loops, it takes a reverser to keep from shorting out.
Welcome to the adventure. It is a fun way to experience our trains.

Tom

Andre,
Speed step default from 14 is controlled by cv29. The choices are 14 or 28/128. There is no 128 default. That is chosen and maintained by your NCE system. The decoder only knows either 14 or 28/128. You did not mention which NCE system you have. Since I use the PowerCab, I will talk about that.  There is an option to set up cv29 (because it has multiple switches for setting up the operational characteristics of the decoder). Its easiest if you go to your powercab manual page 48 explains how to get to decoder configuration cv29, then page 51 explains how to choose 28 or 14 speed steps.  After you have set the decoder for 28 speed steps, then you use the 28/128 button on the throttle to toggle between 28 or 128 steps. After you toggle 128, then the system remembers that and anytime you choose that locomotive with the throttle, it will stay at 128.
Regarding the delay in starting, I am not sure with the Soundvalue what you can do. I would have to look up the settings and see if there is a way to start  throttlle notching up sounds without movement, then manually or automatically start the movement.  I will defer to others thoughts on that.

Tom

I built an enclosure for a speaker install I was doing on one of my diesels. Sounded horrible buzz like a blown speaker. But it was the enclosure vibrating against something else in the shell.  I took it out and either trimmed it down or placed foam tape between it and the shell contact point - I don't remember exactly now. Anyway, the buzz went away and the sound is awesome now.

It should run on DC. DCC ready means the manufacturer has installed some provision for connecting a decoder. Usually an 8 pin plug.  From the factory, there is usually a dummy jumper plug installed on the 8 pin socket. This jumper needs to stay in place if the loco will only ever be run on DC.  The jumper is removed to install a DCC decoder (which can usually be setup to also run on DC).  Without the jumper in place, the loco will not run at all

Hope that helps.

If you have ever tried to sweat copper pipe that "looks" new or shiny and have experienced the frustration of trying to get your joints to solder quickly, cleanly and solidly; then you will understand that new track is still dirty from oxidation that occurs naturally in the environment and needs to be cleaned.  If you dont have track cleaner, just use a hard rubber pencil eraser.
It may not totally solve your entire problem, but it will not hurt it either.

Tom

Yup, those shays and climax and heisler engines are a wonder to watch and listen to.

The manuals and documentation for the power cab make no distinction (or very little) between 1.65 and 1.65b.
Glad your power up showed the 1.65b firmware. You are good to go.

I would not have known about the difference except that I joined the nce group on groups.io and I read everything that comes through there.

Enjoy!

Check your cab version carefully. If it is 1.65, there is a firmware issue that if you ever do a cab reset, you will lose permanently some of the benefits of 1.65 and it will revert to 1.28 parameters for some functionality. - ( like maximum number of cabs and a few other things, but it will still operate teains).  But it will still report as 1.65.  If it is 1.65b, then no worries and you are on the latest firmware. You can purchase a firmware chip upgrade from NCE direct on their website or from some dealers.  Its about $35 or maybe less.
Just passing that on....

Any hobby shop that deals with trains will have the track you want. Also Hobby Lobby. Also Amazon or Ebay.  You want HO guage track.  Many will have track by the piece or sets of track as well.  You can typically buy Bachmann track in multi packs like 4 curved pieces and 2 or 4 straight pieces. The packaging usually  has details of how many pieces you need for a circle.  Then you add straight tracks between 2 half circles.
You can also get terminal track which is where the power pack connects.
You will need a power pack unless you have one or it came with one.
I hope that helps.

I have had a few dcc locs that I wanted to run on dc that seemed to not want to run on dc, but they just needed a lot more voltage than expected and so the throttle had to be turned way up to get any response from them.  I expect that for sure from sound units, but it was strange on non sound units.