Here is how I approach unknown wiring.  Use a multimeter and set it on ohms / continuity.  Find the track pickup wires by putting one probe on an unknown wire and one probe on the fireman side pickup wheels. Move from unknown wire to the next until you find the one that reads zero ohms or sounds your continuity buzzer. Then do the same for the engineer side pickup.  So now you have 2 wires identified. Next, get out a 1.5 volt battery (for 1.5 volt lamps to not burn out) and jumper to any other 2 unknown wires and look for lights to go on. Be sure to swap leads on the battery in case it is an led and you have polarity wrong. If you get no lights, try a 3 volt battery doing the same thing as above. That will nearly always get the lamps identified even if very dim (incandescent).  LEDs with 3 volts will light brightly unless they have inline resistors.  Be sure to repeat this until you find all the lamps - forward, reverse if applicable, cab lights if applicable, etc. Thru the process of elimination you can identify the function common.
Be sure you identify all the lamps before you proceed with a higher volt battery as in the next step - if you dont, you could blow lamps with the 9 volt battery.
After you have found the pickups and the lamps, you can confirm the motor with a 9 volt battery and determine polarity by swapping leads.
You might even find the motor with just the 3 volts.
It took longer to type it out and explain it than it does to actually do it.
I have been able to positively identify my loco wires using this method every time I needed to.
Some manufacturers who I detested their on board decoders had no documentation as to the wiring and also the wiring colors are never to be trusted. I found many factory fresh locos with completely non standard color coding. They just used whatever they had on hand.

Hope that helps,
Tom Wilson

I agree with Trainman203 regarding settings for  cvs 3 and 4. Really makes for smooth realistic starting and stopping. You just have to get used to not starting and stopping immediatly with throttle from or to zero.
Regarding cv 2, 5 and 6. I leave them alone on most locomotives, but if I am going to doublehead some steamers without another operator, they are useful to speed match the locs. Also with older balky open frame motors, raising cv 2 can help it get going. But I try to remotor as I don't like dealing with the jerkiness of some of the older motors. But thats another topic.

Tom Wilson

Cv 2 is starting motor voltage - the higher this cv, the more voltage at throttle step 1.
Cv 3 is Acceleration rate - the higher this is, the longer it takes for the loco to respond to throttle increases. Adds a momentum effect.
Cv 4 is Deceletation rate - the highr this is, the longer it takes the loco to slow down with throttle changes. Like momentum braking.
Cv 5 is high voltage, cv 6 is mid voltage. Good for setting up 3 point simple speed curves. I would be surprised if the sound value decoders have this. But maybe.... worth trying.  Original Tsunami did not utilize cv 5 or 6. If your sound value did use them, then set cv5 lower to limit the max speed from a racing locomotive to a more realistic prototype top speed.  Then cv 6 gives you the flexibility to have a slower acceleration in the lower throttle zone by setting your mid voltage, then in the upper throttlr range, more voltage is applied to the limit of cv5.  Cv 6 must always be less than cv5.

Hope this helps

Tom Wilson

Joe,
Check out Northwest Shortline. They have a huge assortment of replacement axels and gears, motors, etc for many makes and models. They just might have what you need.
Do a Google search for Northwest Shortline.

Tom Wilson

Cool! Glad it worked.
Thanks for reporting back!

Tom Wilson

Cv29 in the decoder has a bit in it that controls whether the decoder will operate on dc or not. Chances are, that bit is set not to allow dc operation.
If you have access to a dcc system that will let you setup cv29, that is the first thing I would look at.
You can Google cv29 calculator to find out what all the bits do if you do not already have that knowledge.

Tom Wilson

Try Bullfrog Snot. You dont have to remove anything but the broken traction tire.  Follow the instructions on the bottle and you are all set.

Hope that helps you out.

Tom

Rich,
I will look into photo bucket or something and let you know when photos are up. Not a priority for tonight.
I wish I had taken photos during dis assembly. Not only to help others but to remind myself.  I kind of kept stuff in groupings. That other site where I found some great tips will help me get it back together. I was just on a mission and should have slowed down to document.  Lesson learned.

Thanks for your encouragement.

Tom

Update... my good news of the day is that after having measured this motor, I have found a replacement of exactly the same size. Northwest Shortline has one and it is even 12 volt. (I think the Bachmann motor was probably less voltage and used circuitry to drop the voltage to their needs - there are markings on the motor that cause me to think it may be a 6 volt motor. At least that is my theory of why my motor failed). I am going to order it this week. Then when it comes in, I will move the worm and flywheel from the old motor to the new motor.
I am also going to remove the Bachmann circuit board that was on top of and only connected to the motor.
Then I will reassemble all the pieces. I think I will also replace as much of the plastic gearing as I can with metal gears.  Bachmann has some and Northwest Shortline has some. 
I will keep posting with updates as I can. I hope to have this fine looking locomotive back to running by the end of the month.

Tom

Rich,
I finally was able to get some photos of that motor and pcb attached to the motor. I just dont know how to attach them. I would be glad to send them to you offlist? 
The motor measures 10mm (flat side) × 12 mm (round side) × 15.5 mm length. Plus 1 mm diameter shafts out both ends at approx 8 mm length- 1 end has a flywheel and the other has the worm.

Thanks, Tom

Here is my go to source of information for adding keep alives to any locomotive. It may not show your specific lovomotive and decoder, but it shows how to find the connection points on most any decoder. 
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm

Hope that helps you.

Tom

Rich,
In a previous life I repaired computerized cash register systems for a living. Replaced defective components  in a lot of NCR restaurant point of sale stuff.  That was a long time ago though and I certainly dont know everything I would like to. The micro components in our trains are a total wonder to me, but I sure love to figure out problems.
I wonder if Bachmann would even consider my unit. It is in many pieces now as I try to find parts for it. And I kind of cut up their circuitry a bit. But I may give them a call just to see what they say.

Rich,
when I was doing all that troubleshooting the other day, I actually clipped on leg of what I thought was the cap - the yellow blob. (Some of the recommended motor performance tips say to cut the cap that goes across the motor leads whether diirectly or in a circuit). I have done that succesfully with several other Bachmann locos . But in this case, it prevented the motor from working at all.  I will check those resistor looking things. I know about the inductors, but these did not look like the ones I have seen before.  The smd devices if my memory is correct had a 'C' by them.

By the way, when testing before I clipped that 'Cap',  testing with a 9 volt transistor radio battery to 8 pin plug on motor leads only.. that yellow blob got so hot to the touch it burned the tip of my finger when I touched it. This might be a clue as to what is wrong with the motor?

I will try to take a clear close up photo of that small citcuit board and motor and post it here. Hopefully tomorrow.

Thanks again for your input, Tom

Rich, it is a very small motor. I had no idea it was that small. The board on the motor gear cover has 2 big resistors, a couple of tiny smd items - maybe capacitors and what looked to be a disk capacitor. I briefly bypassed the circuit board and put the 9 volt transistor battery directly to the motor leads. It smoked from the motor. I mean it was maybe 2 seconds. So, I think the motor is not a 12 volt motor but rather maybe 6?  And the big resistors are functioning as drop down resistors. At least that is my theory with no facts to back it up. If the motor is 12 volt, I think the smoke may confirm bad windings in the motor.  Anyway, I really just want to replace the motor and that one circuit board.  If I could find the items needed..
But, as always, open to advice from anyone who has it to offer.

Thanks,
Tom

Progress update on my 3 truck HO climax issues.
I disassembled the model to get to the motor and gear tower. I found an excellent blog site with great directions and photos on getting it apart.
Here is the link to that...
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/2017/12/bachmann-ho-scale-climax-disassembly.html?m=1

I took the gear tower apart and could not find any split gears. I examined all the gear assemblies in the trucks and the cylinder drive gears. No issues.
So I tested the motor with it completely disengaged from the gears, just free spinning. I jumpered a 3 volt battery pack (2 aa's) to the 8 pin decoder socket on the motor leads with no decoder.  It ran fine and continuously. I then changed to a 9 volt battery and within seconds of starting to run, it slowed and stopped. So, I either have a circuit board problem at the board that is mounted on top of the motor, or the motor is bad per my first assumption in my original post.
I have looked at the Bachmann parts pages trying to locate both the circuit board and the motor. No such luck. This loco is not very old. I don't understand why there would not be parts available.
In fact the parts for this loco are very few.
If anyone has any suggestions or thoughts on where I can obtain those items, it would be much appreciated.
Otherwise I have a very expensive shelf decoration. I have less than 2 hours run time in this locomotive.

Tom