The board that is factory installed is not available separately, but the Micro-Tsunami fits just fine.  I think the "Light Logging" version is the one you are looking for.  I can't remember the speaker size off hand - I want to say the Soundtraxx 1.1" speaker, but hopefully someone else will chime in (or just measure.)

The OEM version that comes preinstalled works great, but it lacks some of the features the full Micro-Tsunami version has.  Get one of those "blank" 8 pin plugs and with some quick soldering to it, you can plug it right into the Shay's DCC plug.

Hope that helps!
Scott

Quote from: the Bach-man on February 10, 2010, 10:58:02 PM
Some folks on other fora are critical, but I like them.

That is EXACTLY the reason I model in On30.  Got so sick of the "experts" in HO criticizing every detail.

Ironically, they will brag about their new cab-forward having every detail in exactly the right place.  Then, they will hook up 5 boxcars to it and run it around their layout.  Prototypical?

I find On30 to be unprototypically prototypical.  I switched over because I don't want my rolling stock to be exactly like any particular road.  Makes me feel "locked in" to that roadname.

Great job on the caboose - keep em coming!

Scott

Thanks Harold - (I've loved all the sites over the years, btw).

After using a fresh, mint, out of the box turnout, it seems the 2-8-0 is the only loco that "bumps".  I have no fear of it derailing or anything like that, just seems it should go through a little nicer.  The lead truck I found was very slightly narrow (not that it is causing the bump) so I fixed that, but the drivers check out just fine.

I have a few FS turnouts I built when I thought I might hand lay (turns out I have better things to do with my time), so I'll run it through that - if it is a significant enough improvement, I may just hand lay the turnouts.  Wonder how hard it is to match the ME flex though...

Otherwise it seems the bump is something I can live with.

Scott

I just installed the first few Micro Engineering code 83 On30 turnouts on my layout and am having problems with my Bachmann locos running through them.  The shay and climax go through okay for the most part, although there is a very very slight "bump" as they go over the frogs - nothing I was too worried about.

But running the 2-8-0 through them, the first and fourth drivers do a distinctive "bump" over the frog - very noticeable.  So I figured a flangeway problem.  I checked everything with my NMRA gauge - wheels, flanges, track width, frog spacing, and the flangeways - all checks out just fine.  Took a dremel to the flangeways and took a considerable amount of metal away - the "bump" declined somewhat, but is still definitely there on the first and fourth drivers.

What am I missing???  For the amount of work it took to get one turnout somewhat reasonable (but not perfect), I am a bit frustrated.

Like I said, everything checks out with the NMRA gauge, so I'm not sure where to go next.  (Yeah, I know - hand lay... )

Thanks,
Scott

Just saw the caboose at Trainfest.  Fantastic.  Has that "hunkered down" look that all previous Bachmann freight models have been missing.  Forgot to take a picture... was too busy looking for Lee Riley (found him.)

Yeah, most LHSs don't carry On30.  I think it is the 2006 On30 annual that has an article on how to DCC a Mogul.  Might have to order it direct, I can't imagine any LHS carrying it anymore.

I was thinking of 2-rail O scale as well, but I only like steam engines, and the cost of them in 2-rail O are outrageous.  I could have a dozen On30 locomotives for the cost of one standard O scale steam.

If you are a 3-railer, the biggest thing that will surprise you about On30 is the size.  The equipment is no where near the size of its standard gauge kin.  Narrow gauge equipment was smaller due to the narrower rails - think of a balancing act - the wider apart the supports, the taller you can make something.  Dimension-wise, On30 is about the same as S scale.

Still, the ability for tighter curves, and the bulk of O scale scenery is fantastic next to the On30 trains.

Scott

I feared that all this texting would eventually lead to this.  (On the same wavelength, there was also a story last week that 90% of college freshman at some NY university couldn't do a simple algebra problem...)

But I think he is asking if you need anything special to run On30 trains vs HO.  Answer: No.  Use whatever power pack you use for HO to run On30.

If there's another question in there, I missed it do to lack of question marks.

Scott

Thanks all.  I'm 99% sure I fried the LED while testing - sent out a neat spark.  But I'll try testing it again.

I could post a picture, but like I said, the assembly simply came loose.  I was not originally trying to replace anything.  After re-gluing the headlamp to make it more secure, the LED did not light, so that's where I am now.

I'm going to run to Radio Shack and see if I can find a similar sized LED that would fit inside the lens.

I am mostly wondering about how the LED leads are supposed to sit inside the firebox.  When I put the old LED back in the two small holes on the top of the firebox, the leads didn't seem to really contact anything, but it is hard to tell.  I guess when I get the new LED, I'll figure it out!

Thanks everyone!
Scott

Gentlemen,

Had the front headlamp assembly of the Climax come loose, including the two LED leads.  I tried to simply slide the leads back in the two small holes, and attach the headlamp back with some glue.  But the headlamp still won't light.

I tested the lamp LED and the lamp will not light.  (Failure may be my fault - not sure.)  So I disassembled the headlamp and will replace the LED.

Question 1 - do the LED leads from the headlamp assembly simply sit in those two holes and make contact, or do they physically plug into something?  Hard to tell looking through the holes.

Question 2 - anyone have a good idea for a replacement LED that would fit properly in the lens assembly itself?

Thanks,
Scott

This article discusses large scale, but the concept is the same.  Narrow gauge cars are smaller than standard gauge cars.  Pictures that show this are about halfway down this page where it says "Start 2nd Article" in red.

http://www.pcrails.com/DualGauge/SSG.htm

The only two magazines I subscribe to anymore are RMC and the Narrow Gauge Gazette (which in my opinion is the best train mag out there regardless of if you model narrow gauge or not.)

The others just seemed to have the same or similar content over and over and over.  RMC and NGG have numerous articles which go into nice detail without spanning 6 issues to cover the whole topic.

As far as magazine prices, there are a handful of internet sites that sell MR and RMC at a substantial discount - I've never had an issue renewing online.  Quick search (google: magazine price search) turns up both MR and RMC for about 40% off list.  The Gazette you can only subscribe direct, but it's worth it.

Scott

I used the Digitrax 583S on mine and it works great!

No problems, but for some reason, every 583S I have used has the F0F and F0R reversed (forward light/reverse light), and I know others have mentioned that as well.  No biggie though - if you wire it correct and it works backwards, you can simply reprogram it.

If you are willing to wait a few months, Soundtraxx is supposed to come out with an 8 amp Tsunami eventually (at least according to Litchfield's newsletter).

Hope that helps!
Scott