Hey guys and gals,
Am I the only one that has problems with the magnetic, curved piece of metal that hangs down from the couplers? Sorry I'm sure it has a name but I can't think of it - or maybe I just don't know it....
For the longest time I couldn't figure out why my trains were derailing on my EZ track turnouts (mostly) as well as in other places on the track (less frequently). Finally I realized that the metal pieces were getting caught up in the turnouts and on the track. I don't uncouple the trains magnetically so I just clipped the metal pieces a bit and my troubles seem to be over for the most part. I still have an occasional unexplained derailment on the turnouts but at least the train is staying on the track.
I'm sure you experienced modelers are probably cringing at my method. I'm sure there were other options. What should I have done. Are my couplers now useless if I want to magnetically uncouple the trains in the future?
new guy
You're right....your couplers are useless now if you want to install magnets.
A better way to have dealt with them, would have been to bend them slightly upwards and higher off the track. There is a special set of trip pin pliers for doing this and Kadee and others sell a guage to check trip pin height....among other things.
Properly set trip pins shouldn't hit any part of your track.
Sid
A pair of small needle nose pliars does the same job as the Kadee tool. I always bend the gladhand up before installing a coupler.
How much fo the gladhand did you cut off? If all of it, magnetic uncoupling is now impossible with those couplers. But if you just cut off the tip, it might still be possible.
Gene
Thanks everyone for your help. SteamGene I didn't cut
Sorry I accidentally hit post before I was done. I didn't cut of the whole gladhand, just enough so that it wouldn't drag.
new guy
A coupler height gauge is mandatory. You can use the NMRA gauge, or buy the Kadee gauge you can put on a piece of track.
Gene
Thanks hunt and Gene for the tips
new guy
We all have to bend or cut and I wonder why the maufacturer's don't bend them at the right height!
Quote from: Rangerover on September 21, 2007, 09:32:20 AM
We all have to bend or cut and I wonder why the maufacturer's don't bend them at the right height!
I expect the answer is cost. Generally, tighter tolerances require more expensive processes, or more inspection and scrap to weed out the defects - also more expensive. Note however, the manufacturer is not bending to a height from the rail, rather to a distance from the centerline of the coupler knuckle.
So, if a particular user mounts couplers low - even slightly so - they will be more prone to the problem of trip-pins snagging on things. There are also other variables - some of my son's couplers over time seem to droop. Instances of rough use, as when a coupler hits a track stop can also produce bent shank, head, or pin.
i always cut off the "trip pin" as my layout is only 18inches wide. the old horn hooks to use to like to get cauught in the turnouts frog..
IF.......You are going to use this form of coupler-and you'd be nuts not to-then by all means, follow the advice of Sid here and others: Mine as well.
Get a Kadee couple height gauge. This device not only gives you the standard height for a coupler, but it also gives you the clearance height of the "hose" (the gladhand is the end of the hose that clasps onto the other gladhand, hence the name, gladhand. BTW: The same arrangement is also found on tractor trailer service/emergency lines. Next time you see a truck, take a good look at the hoses. One set of service/emergency is stationarily afixed to the trailer/semitrailer, the other set is on the end of the hoses.
se these gauges religiously (well, don't pray to it) and make NO exceptions with the couplers. They should all comply with that standards.
Rich
Quote from: SteamGene on September 18, 2007, 08:39:40 AM
A pair of small needle nose pliars does the same job as the Kadee tool. I always bend the gladhand up before installing a coupler.
How much fo the gladhand did you cut off? If all of it, magnetic uncoupling is now impossible with those couplers. But if you just cut off the tip, it might still be possible.
Gene
To be honest, Gene, I don't even use Mangetic uncoupling, I prefer to use a Kadee Dual-tool, you slide it in between the two couplers, twist it, move the car a
little bit, and boom! You're done! It's cheaper, and IMO easier.