Whenever I look at photos from the mid 20th century, concerning railroads, I see a particular type of generic lamppost that seems to pop up in both yards and depots. I'm pretty sure it's called a Shepherd's Hook lamp, but I could be wrong.
Decided to try my hand at making some lamps for my loco servicing yard and my depot area.
Started with some 1/16" aluminum tubing. Tried bending them a few different ways with bad results:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3295_zps8ad01485.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3295_zps8ad01485.jpg.html)
Finally put some 22 gage wire in the tube and bent it around one of those tube, bendy, springy things:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3297_zps86065016.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3297_zps86065016.jpg.html)
That's a bit better. The wire in the tube prevents collapse. I can pull it out after bending.
Bent 16 workable tubes in just a couple of minutes:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3298_zps8a0319a7.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3298_zps8a0319a7.jpg.html)
But what to use for a lampshade? How about those little pill jackets that come in the Kadee coupler packs?
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3300_zps36bf7681.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3300_zps36bf7681.jpg.html)
Because these lamps are small, I'm not too concerned about the detail, but these might just pass as lamps:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3302_zps2d3946fe.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3302_zps2d3946fe.jpg.html)
Prep for paint:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3304_zpsf05dd66f.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3304_zpsf05dd66f.jpg.html)
After a coat of flat black primer, I experimented with some metallic graphite paint. It looks darker in person:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3307_zps6e8979d1.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3307_zps6e8979d1.jpg.html)
I'll use magnet wire and 0603 SMDs for the lamps. Yes, they are tall, but they need to drop through the benchwork for wiring.
Regards,
Jonathan
Simple, easy, and cheap=ingenious! And the modern LED's make this very doable with the plastic shade (very little heat compared to a bulb). The tube-bending trick is adaptable to multiple scales, too.
The whole thing reminds me of the earlier days, when we had to scrounge for stuff that would pass for certain things in HO and other scales. . .
Great to see the old style touch is still around!
i Was going to make modern street lights sort of like yours jonathan use the out pole as one conductor and run one wire to a led. also i thought of using those c-3 led christmas lights with the plastic covers smooth shape for the base cutting half of it out or just using a wheel of a box car . cut tube long ways at lamp end and flatten a little to give shape of a reflector. and of coarse led lights to light it . i do really like yours and its a budget cutter which makes it better . Dave
jonathan-
Nice work and a great example of how MRs use various objects on their pikes.
-- D
Very nice!
The "tube, bendy, springy thing"-what is it for real? Is it a tubing bender for bending copper (plumbing) tubing?
Thanks, folks.
The tube bendy thing is a set of four springs I picked up at a Hobby Lobby for about $3-- K&S tube bender? Unfortunately, the instructions are not clear, and I couldn't figure out how to use it properly. I could have done the same thing bending the tubes around a screwdriver shaft. I think you are supposed to insert the tubes in the springs and bend. Well, that didn't work out at all. :D
This morning, I inserted an smd with leads, that I made a while ago:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3314_zpsf4b9eb01.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3314_zpsf4b9eb01.jpg.html)
Up close... Pay no attention to how rough the lampshade looks. It's hardly noticeable from 18" away:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3311_zpsd0866eb9.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3311_zpsd0866eb9.jpg.html)
I painted the inside silver. Here's a size perspective against my fingers:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3313_zpsd9e10e7e.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3313_zpsd9e10e7e.jpg.html)
Finally, a light test with 9V battery and 1K ohm resistor. Think I can get away with a smaller resistor, if my math is right. Like to get it just a bit brighter:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3310_zpsd1153bca.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3310_zpsd1153bca.jpg.html)
Regards,
Jonathan
jonathan-
Exactly. You slide your copper tubing inside of the springs and then make the necessary bend. The springs, which are quite stiff, keep the tubing from flattening when it is bent. You don't usually need them for gentle curves but they are without an alternative if you must make tighter bends. I have 1/2" and a 3/4" springs which I don't need routinely but which are irreplaceable for some plumbing projects.
-- D
Thank you for answering my question Jonathan.
Progress:
Before I go planting homemade lights on the main part of the layout, I placed 11 lampposts on my loco staging yard, which also has a transfer/shipping industry, among other stuff. This is a good place to check my work. 7 of 11 lamps are wired and working at this point:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3359_zps578130fc.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3359_zps578130fc.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3360_zps09cb5cf3.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3360_zps09cb5cf3.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3358_zps83ff7881.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3358_zps83ff7881.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3361_zps49865f3f.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3361_zps49865f3f.jpg.html)
I think for the depot and coal mine, I'll use a different color for the lampposts.
Regards,
Jonathan
Looks great!
very good work with those only one little problem. The base for lamp post would be concrete block. Oh that's easy enough use a piece of foam and drill or burn out the hole dia for the pools and then paint concrete gray. And for your depot adding sign boards, clocks, decoration, platform # and other smaller details will make it more excellent.
Yep. I'm considering bases for the lampposts on the mainline. The concrete block is a good idea. I was looking for some kind of round base, but why not concrete? Good call. Details are getting there.
OK, this first block of lights are now complete. This may, or may not, be surprising to some, but I wired these lights to the accessory output of a standard power pack. So it's AC. The LEDs pick up just half the wave of the AC current, or just 9 of the 18 volts. I didn't need a rectifier. Each LED got its own 560 ohm resistor. Since I'm electrically challenged, I am amazed that it works, considering LEDs like DC current. I suspected this might work as my passenger cars have LED lighting and work on DC and DCC.
Anyway here are some final shots. My locos have been in storage for the winter. One has developed a case of cobwebs. Didn't see it until I looked at the pictures.
Regards,
Jonathan
The subjects are Spectrum Heavy Mountains and Consolidations--all heavily modified. The only light used for the photographs were the lampposts I just installed.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3368_zps06f9db75.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3368_zps06f9db75.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3370_zps571fe19f.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3370_zps571fe19f.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3376_zpsd0e4e103.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3376_zpsd0e4e103.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3373_zps67a33884.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3373_zps67a33884.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3365_zpsfa52af56.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3365_zpsfa52af56.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3374_zps274ec81a.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3374_zps274ec81a.jpg.html)
Quote from: jonathan on January 13, 2014, 05:17:36 AM
Yep. I'm considering bases for the lampposts on the mainline. The concrete block is a good idea. I was looking for some kind of round base, but why not concrete? Good call. Details are getting there.
OK, this first block of lights are now complete. This may, or may not, be surprising to some, but I wired these lights to the accessory output of a standard power pack. So it's AC. The LEDs pick up just half the wave of the AC current, or just 9 of the 18 volts. I didn't need a rectifier. Each LED got its own 560 ohm resistor. Since I'm electrically challenged, I am amazed that it works, considering LEDs like DC current. I suspected this might work as my passenger cars have LED lighting and work on DC and DCC.
Usually you will see a concrete or
cast metal base, but that isn't always the case, especially many decades ago. It may be buried, or embedded in rock, or even in below ground concrete.
Just mix it up on your next batch ;)
LEDs...They are
Light
Emitting
Diodes. Diode being the key word . Strung right they form a rectifier :D 8).
Very nice, I may have to steal you ideas at some point!
Just so you know, with LED's which, as GG1 said, are diodes, It is not really picking up 9 volts. With an AC current in america, the current is swapping polarity 60 times a second meaning it is closer to (in dc terms) 18, 0 , -18, 0, 18 ect, however being a diode, it is picking up only the positive (in terms of dc) side so it follows a patern closer to 18-0-0-0-18, ect. Because it happens so fast, the net DC voltage is enough to make it work. I dont know how well LED's hold up but I do not think they take damage, as I have used four LED's as a poor mans rectifier before.
Dear Jonathan,
Unbelievably good modeling and photography all around. Great job.
Do you have the specs on your surface mount LEDs?
One thing you have to be concerned about is the PRV, or "Peak Reverse Voltage" specification.
If your power supply exceeds that, you could burn out some of your LEDs prematurely.
Vpeak = Square Root (2) x Vrms = 1.414 x 18Vrms Accessories Output ~= 26V
So, if your LED PRV is less than 26 Volts, you will have to re-design your lamp circuit.
If you don't have the specs, let us know the part number and make, or what your parts source is.
We'll figure it out.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
Jonathan;
Nice job. The lampposts that caught my eye were at Canaan Union station; they are pretty simple to make using brass tubing and brass sheet about .005 thick, and flare it so that it looks like a lampshade. Run one conductor up the tube, and use the body of the lamp unit as the second conductor. If it works in an automobile, it will work for you.
Rich
Thanks, guys. I think I'm starting to learn more than I wanted to know about LEDs and electricity.
I think to be on the safe side, I should run a 9V or 10V DC buss for my new lampposts. Lord knows I have enough used wall warts laying around. That would be easier than anything else. I got these SMDs from one of those "direct from China" sights on ebay. No telling what the specs may be.
Fortunately, I wired everything just like running on DC, so polarity is already factored in. I thought this would be a cool experiment, but it's not worth it if I burn out these lights after all this work. Would probably take less than 30 minutes to run some new wire around the layout. The power strip has room for one more plug in. ;D
BTW, if I blink fast enough, can I see the lamps winking on and off real fast? Thanks again for the kind words and education.
Regards,
Jonathan
Well, I was wrong.
It took me a whole hour to run the bus wires, connect to the lampposts, and connect to a 9v/1amp wall wart. All is well. The lights are still bright, and probably safer from burn out.
Figure I can connect at least 30 more LEDs to this bus wire before things start getting dim.
Thanks!
Regards,
Jonathan
Jon,
Is your wall-wart output 9vAC or 9vDC?
If AC, you will need a diode or diode bridge between the wall wart and your LEDs.
Radio Shack 276-0268 diode bridge would work.
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
Quote from: Joe Satnik on January 14, 2014, 12:13:37 PM
Is your wall-wart output 9vAC or 9vDC? If AC, you will need a diode or diode bridge between the wall wart and your LEDs.
Joe-
The LEDs will work on AC, just not as brightly. That's not generally a problem, in my
experience, because they are too bright and too white for many applications.
Doneldon
Well i was working on lights also buildings ,signal lights,pole lights . i came up with button light poles 1/16 alum tube, christmas leds buttons and wire . first pic was my supplies and i have another pic showing my xmas lights i bought on this thread, 2 hole buttons of a work shirt , and bought 1/16 tube.
mine are not as hard is Jonathans lights i really like his (must have lots more time than me ) well heres the pics if you like to do something different
(//URL=http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/ezdaveut/media/ledchristmaslightsd_zps72d952ee.jpg.html%5Dhttp://%5Bimg%20width=373%20height=500%5Dhttp://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag74/ezdaveut/ledchristmaslightsd_zps72d952ee.jpg)[/URL]][/img]
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag74/ezdaveut/ledchristmaslightsf_zps48d0e763.jpg)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag74/ezdaveut/ledchristmaslightse_zpsc372497d.jpg)
Buttons! Why didn't I think of that? That's great!
Dave, if you can, turn off the camera flash. Makes it easier to see the lights working.
Thanks for sharing another great idea! :)
Regards,
Jonathan
Dear All,
Another way to avoid excess PRV (Peak Reverse Voltage) is to have the LEDs wired back to back:
Lamp 1
~AC Terminal 1------WWWW--------------->l----------------- ~AC Terminal 2
Res. l l
l-------l<-----l
lamp 2
You can tell if you have the LEDs in the correct polarity (opposite from each other) if you temporarily hook up a DC source (9V battery or DC power pack).
When powered with DC, one lamp should light but not the other.
Changing the polarity of the DC power source should light the other lamp, and shut off the first.
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
Joe you are correct Half bridge rectifier have a red one one way a green one the other way great track signals, the clear leds you can paint also . HO is just to hard to do with big thumbs like mine. I tryied. heres another shot of my led button pole lamp and a sign with leds.
im going to upload more pics in my layout thread.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag74/ezdaveut/ledbuttonlight_zps5333b3bf.jpg)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag74/ezdaveut/ledgbillboard_zps0390e132.jpg)
The recent winter storm has us trapped indoors, and I can't get to work until later in the day. So....
I built nine more street lights, this time using more scrap parts for the lampshades: washers, brake wheels, scrap tubing, etc. Building up to the point where I can install something nice around my depot area.
This time, after the enamel primer, I brushed on some acrylic hunter green on the lampposts. It got real dark with the primer. I like the color.
I took a bunch of pictures, the best of which are below. Just trying to kill time at the moment. Enjoy.
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3404_zpsba0c782c.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3404_zpsba0c782c.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3402_zps385402d1.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3402_zps385402d1.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3400_zpsa912ab9f.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3400_zpsa912ab9f.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3399_zps804c1cf4.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3399_zps804c1cf4.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3388_zps605cc834.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3388_zps605cc834.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3378_zps05220646.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3378_zps05220646.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3390_zps103b8f79.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3390_zps103b8f79.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3389_zps2d9e9c2e.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3389_zps2d9e9c2e.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3394_zps09685598.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3394_zps09685598.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3396_zpsb83a6e2b.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3396_zpsb83a6e2b.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3385_zpsa3b179d0.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3385_zpsa3b179d0.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3379_zps2a0e71be.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3379_zps2a0e71be.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3377_zps19ae13f0.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3377_zps19ae13f0.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3381_zps5067b3f9.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3381_zps5067b3f9.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3383_zps31e665fb.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3383_zps31e665fb.jpg.html)
Jonathon: Great work as always. I really like to coloring of your street pavement. Do you have a mix formula for that color? I'm getting ready to lay girder rail and pavement material for the city trolley line on the club RR in McKeesport, and I need a good color for the streets and sidewalks.
Oh, if interested here's a link to some pics of the work in progress: http://freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=2906&forum_id=53&page=12
ebtnut,
Your scenes look great. Are you really going to power the birney with the overhead wire? That's some serious modeling.
The main road is Apple Barrel Pewter Gray. I tried several colors and this one seemed to work better than others. For the downtown shopping district, I mixed in a little black, to make it look freshly paved. Next I will weather the center of the lanes on the main road, some extra dark gray dry brushing should do the trick.
Thanks!
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathon: Yes, the intent is to run from the overhead. I do intend to replace the Bachmann trolley pole with a better one with a proper slider to improve contact. Sometime soon I'm going to disconnect the autoreverse circuit and power up the overhead just to see what happens. It's all DC right now, but DCC is planned. I also have a Bachmann Peter Witt for this operation too. I plan to begin laying the girder rail for the street running the next time I'm up there.
Is Apple Barrel a paint brand name? Something you get at a craft store like Michael's?
Jonathon: OK, I Googled it and it is a brand. Question remains, where do you get yours?
I've gotten those paints at Walmart and Michael's.
Regards,
Jonathan
OK, great. There's a Michael's close at hand. Will try and get there this weekend.
eb, if you don't already have a flier with coupons in it, you can go to Micheals on line and print off a coupon which is typically 40-50% a regular priced item.
Jonathon: Great! Thanks for the heads-up.
??
Nice job,hope it etching primer thought,paint will lift if handled,I learned the hard way always.
Thanks for sharing, you have it working well!
Jack
I dug mine up after I seen your post.
Atlas 3 pack called Gooseneck lamps part number 805-150 very old still in the package ,they have good detailed base to them , there is the part number if interested.
Jack
Yep, I went searching for goosenecks and found them a bit pricey. Mine cost about 50 cents apiece, including the resistors, smds, tubing, wire and shades. As I intended to plant a bunch, had to keep the cost down.
Regards,
Jonathan