There are also some tabs along the sides of the car that need to be released by gently prying the sides of the car away from the frame while gently pulling down on the frame and the wires from the interior light snake down the sides and under the interior of the car then through the frame and are connected to the screws on the trucks that hold the sideframes of the trucks on. Hope this helps.

-Nathan

Quote from: BillyBoyVA on December 13, 2009, 06:40:20 PM
I am trying to take apart a passenger car to repair the windows that are falling out and burned out interior lamps.  I have released the 2 plastic tabs at each end of the underside of the car.  The car body will not release from the base.  Are there screws hiden somewhere?   What is the proper procedure for disassembling these passenger cars to replace lamps and windows.

Joe,

I built a small Christmas display for in the window at my friend's shop, the tightest radius is right around 5" and the trolley goes around that with no problem.

-Nathan

Quote from: HHRR on November 12, 2009, 02:27:21 PM
I know this question has been asked before, but I cannot find the reponses. What is the minimum radius track that the trolley will operate on without derailing.

Thanks,  Joe

Yes, take the one truck off and take the black plastic adapter piece and file the smaller diameter end from the top down until the top of that end is just below the bottom of the truck bolster when fit through the hole in the truck bolster, then replace the adapter and truck and tighten the screw just until it is very slightly hand tight then back the screw off until the truck just barely swivels freely, after that make sure the other truck can swivel and flex all directions easily and then this should stop the wobbling and keep your pulpwood car(s) on the track.

-Nathan

Quote from: the Bach-man on August 23, 2009, 09:43:36 PM
Dear Bob,
Any shop can order them and get them.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

Mr. Bachmann,

So far my distributor has only received the unlettered wood cab version. I have a handful of customers waiting for their steel cab and Tweetsie versions and I don't have them to give to them.

-Nathan

Hi Bill,

I checked out the whisker coupler, right before my last post, in an On30 passenger car coupler box (tightened properly) and the whisker coupler did not bind for me, maybe you were over tightening the lid? it's pretty easy to do, just a thought. I've lowered my cars before using just the #29904 trucks and cutting off the factory coupler box and replacing it with a Kadee box and standard #5 but for changing over to Kadees without modification to the car then the whisker coupler would be the way to go, all they need yet is to bring out the medium overset shank version and you can switch over any of the Bachmann On30 equipment although some steam loco pilots may have a form of long shank coupler on them for clearance purposes, I'm not 100% sure on that.

-Nathan

Quote from: railtwister on August 05, 2009, 02:26:31 PM
Hi Nathan,

i checked the whisker coupler when it first came out, and you are right, it does have a slightly thinner shank than the #5 (about .005", if I recall), but mine seemed to bind anyway. Admittedly, I was working on a very old Bachmann car at the time (one with the original plastic leaf knuckle springs), so maybe B'mann has changed the box ever so slightly (and quietly). I'l have to check again. I know that using the new lowered frame in conjunction with the standard archbar trucks, requires a centered shank coupler, so if if fits without binding, that would make the medium length, center shank whisker coupler the perfect combination!

Thanks for mentioning this,
Bill

The problem with the regular #5's in the Bachmann cast on draft gear boxes could have been the thickness of the #5 coupler shank but I think the main problem was the fact that the coupler box design crushed the Kadee #5 centering spring at spots which in turn caused the coupler to bind plus the centering spring added thickness at the shank as well. I just checked and the new whisker couplers do fit in the Bachmann cast on draft gear boxes and do not bind with the lid screwed on correctly, the only problem is the whisker couplers are only available in 2 of the 3 different configurations. there is the medium center and medium underset shank but no medium overset shank yet like is used on most of the Bachmann On30 equipment but if you have a car with a center or underset shank coupler on it already, and if you really wish to, then it can be replaced with a Kadee whisker coupler with no modification required.

-Nathan

Quote from: railtwister on August 02, 2009, 10:27:34 AM
The problem with using Kadee couplers in the Bachmann draft gear, is that the Kadee shanks are thicker than the EZ-mates, and will bind if the coupler box lid is properly screwed down. Leaving the screw loose may work for a while, but then it will be likely to work loose and fall out over time. If you want to use Kadees, I would recommend using the whisker couplers with their latest draft gear box (#242-std, or #252-short) which snaps together. This will require that you remove the draft gear box that is cast on the Bachmann frame and file or shim the mounting area as needed to attain the proper height. I'm not sure that this is worth all the extra work, because the Bachmann EZ-mates seem to work just fine (as long as they are the ones with the coiled metal knuckle spring). The original style EZ-Mates with the plastic leaf knuckle springs could easily develop a set on the plastic leafs and allow the knuckle to stay open.

Regards, Bill

Quote from: the Bach-man on July 25, 2009, 11:30:08 PM
Dear Nathan,
Give the service department a call on Monday.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

Thanks, will do!

-Nathan

Mr. Bach Man,
I need a wiring harness with the orange 4 pin plug and red, orange, yellow, and brown wires for my inside frame 4-4-0. I think it is the same as also used on the 2-8-0 and probably most of the HO steam locos. Can I get just the plug with wires or must I get a circuit board with the wires and plugs already attached and are there any available? What type of plug is used and where can I purchase one if I can not get it from Bachmann? Thanks.

-Nathan

Quote from: fsm1000 on June 17, 2009, 09:23:30 AM
Thanks Nathan. As it is right now I only have these so far.
http://modelrailroadvideos.googlepages.com/
Hope they can help someone

Very nice, lots of useful information there, thanks for the link.

-Nathan

Quote from: fsm1000 on June 17, 2009, 01:03:15 AM
I had hoped it would help someone, however the lack of response shows me that you are the only one so far that it seems to have helped in any way.
Oh well, stuff happens

I see it has alot of views though, that's a good sign, I'm sure it has helped but people just haven't gotten around to mentioning it yet. Keep up the good work, I'd like to see more of your installation "how to" videos if you get a chance to do anymore.

-Nathan

Quote from: fsm1000 on June 17, 2009, 12:45:40 AM
As this is my very first instal I have no idea if the factory ones are louder or not.
However to speculate it may be that the factory ones have "baffles" for the speakers. This will help to amplify the sound and give it more "resonance" making it appear to have more bass.

You can either buy specific baffles for your speaker or you can make your own. Mostly it is just a housing for the speaker and if you have a subwoofer you can see what it does for that for instance.
A baffle simply helps to direct and concentrate the sound of the speaker giving it more resonance among other things.

I hope that helps.

I am glad that someone has read this and taken the time to reply to it. Thanks Nathan for doing so

The factory ones may have baffles, I tried to use a soundtraxx baffle that was made for my speaker but there was just no room for it, even without a baffle it is a really extremely tight squeeze. I'm happy with the sound level though as it's not overbearing and I'll be walking along with it as I run it on my layout so it's not really an issue to me, I'm just more curious as to why than anything. Although I've already installed my decoder prior to seeing your video I must say your video is very helpful for someone tackling their first dcc/sound installation into the shay or climax, the most challenging part, in my opinion, is dealing with the limited space. Thank you for your reply and for posting your video, I'm sure it will help many other people that would like to install dcc/sound into their shay or climax locos.

-Nathan

Quote from: fsm1000 on May 17, 2009, 12:38:04 AM

I have installed a tsunami decoder on to my On30 Bachman shay and video taped the whole thing.

I have not found anything like this anyplace so I decided to share this with everyone so that you to can instal a decoder as well.

I hope that you find this helpful.

I am not a pro so please don't berate me for not having a professional video. At least I have tried. If anyone wants to give me a proper camcorder I will be happy to make better videos.

As it is I am using a camera in video mode and it is ok but not great.
Go to my main page and scroll down to the date "Saturday May 16th 2009" for the links to it.

Anyhow, for those who want this help it is here for you.

Enjoy

http://fsm1000.googlepages.com

I did this with my On30 Climax but the sound at the max setting is just not as loud as one with sound installed from the factory, have you experienced this as well? Thanks in advance for any information.

-Nathan

yes it would be, unfortunately that's not going to happen, supposedly they're not even at the docks yet so until they get over here and then get out to distributors it could be end of June or early/mid July until they're available. Nobody really knows what the hold up is all I know is I want mine and I can't wait until they're here. :-D

-Nathan

Quote from: simTrain5 on May 15, 2009, 11:38:41 PM
The 4-6-0 itself would be nice too.

If anyone will be at Kimberton I will have some of the scale length ones with me as well as Bachmann passenger cars to go with them.

-Nathan
Nate's Light Iron Hobbies

Quote from: Matt Bumgarner on May 13, 2009, 04:24:43 PM
Hi all,

While we are anxiously awaiting the ETWNC 4-6-0's, Deerfield River Laser is now shipping their ET&WNC passenger car kits.

You can buy scale length ones that fit on lengthened Bachmann bodies, or "shorties" that will fit on top of the Bachmann underframes (and under the roofs) without modification.

They tell me that the ETWNC caboose will be out mid-summer as well.

Thanks!

Matt Bumgarner

BTS did the #12 in On3 AND On30 but a kit is $900, I'm sure an MMI version RTR and painted would be around $600-700 like the K's. The BTS #12 was beautiful though.

-Nathan

Quote from: ebtnut on April 22, 2009, 01:10:06 PM
I'm just going to jump in FWIW on EBT locos.  IMHO, the 2-6-2 is about as big a loco as one might want in On30.  MMI has done the D&RG K's in On30, but because of their outside frames and low-slung look, they can get by.  I really think the EBT's big Mikes just would not look right in On30.  Now, what might be interesting is if they elected to do EBT Nos. 1 and 2, the original Baldwin Moguls.  These were very small locos, and would be right at home with the other Bachmann offerings.  Since they were a "stock" Baldwin model, they would be adaptable to a number of different roads, both domestic and foreign.  This might be a decent alternative to just re-releasing the C&S Mogul.  Just a reminder--EBT No. 7 was built to the same blueprints as the Rio Grande's C-19's, so the MMI model in On30 can be redetailed for that purpose.